Took out the quad retro ...
Getting it back upgraded in a few days.
How difficult was it to do, and how much 4 the upgrade?
What did you do to your NBS GMT800 Tahoe/Yukon Today?
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How difficult was it to do, and how much 4 the upgrade?
Oshkosh
Full Access Member
Finished up FPR, front ceramic pads / rotors, fuel filter and cabin filters.
The ole girl liked the attention ,quick and smooth acceleration.0-50 very quickly.
Next to find drive-line rattle/noise under the truck, driving me nuts.
The ole girl liked the attention ,quick and smooth acceleration.0-50 very quickly.
Next to find drive-line rattle/noise under the truck, driving me nuts.
chip
Full Access Member
Took out the quad retro ...
Getting it back upgraded in a few days.
Hmmm?????
kses123
kses123
Installed my LED DRL's........they look so much better
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I tried some of those. They looked good in the dark but terrible in the daytime. You could hardly tell they were on in direct sunlight so I just removed them.
They are Daytime Running Lights......they don't come on in the dark.....and that pic is my Denali in direct sunlight
Besides my stock bulbs were slightly scorched and needed to go....
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BillBlatt18
Full Access Member
What brand LEDs are those
They are V-leds.....
http://www.v-leds.com/Exterior-LED-Bulbs/Back-Up-LED/White-LED/V-LEDS-HID-WHITE-6K-92-p7472044.html
A little pricey but they are supposed to be able to handle the voltage spikes during startup to prevent premature death
We will see.........
-J
Rivieraracing
Full Access Member
Put the battery charger on mine today, haven't driven it in a couple days and the battery is about done!!
electro
Full Access Member
Washed my baby
I threw up a little bit.
So nice.
---------- Post added at 08:37 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:24 PM ----------
I picked up my one of my driveshafts (rear) and one of my yokes (front) from shop down the highway a bit. I was trying to get my factory universal joints out and my brother had his front wheels aligned at another shop so I went along and asked if they would heat my joints up and melt out the factory injected plastic. They did so for free but when I tried to use a vice/hammer to get them out I only able to get two of four out. I paid $40 to have two joints heated and pressed out ($81/hr. shop rate). They used a ball joint/u-joint remover (Looks like a C-Clamp with interchangeable "cups").
Hopefully this weekend I will get them cleaned up nicely and press in new, greaseable u-joints.
Oshkosh
Full Access Member
I tore out my front drive shaft and am readying to replace the factory joints in the morning.
Picked up a ball-joint/u-joint tool tonight to make my life easier (I hope)...I figured between u-joints and GM front ends the tool will be a handy addition to my toolbox.
Picked up a ball-joint/u-joint tool tonight to make my life easier (I hope)...I figured between u-joints and GM front ends the tool will be a handy addition to my toolbox.
chauncey0337
Full Access Member
Might be a good time to post a write up or 'how to'.
05Yukon23
Full Access Member
Refreshed the driver's side of my roof rack with what was left of the satin black I used on the valance. Looks much better! I think I want to color match the mounts though.
Oshkosh
Full Access Member
Is Rated "R" ok?
I'm not sure we may have to sensor my texted....lol
I will keep track and take some photos and see how it all comes out.
I'm not sure we may have to sensor my texted....lol
I will keep track and take some photos and see how it all comes out.
chip
Full Access Member
Rated R works for me.
Oshkosh
Full Access Member
electro
Full Access Member
Well, I would say 136k miles used up all the goodness of this u-joint...And I am assuming my noise will be gone when I re install my driveshaft.
I would assume that you are correct.
What year truck did that come out of?
Did you heat up the plastic inside or was there any?
How much was your ball joint/u-joint tool?
You should check to make sure the seals on the transfer case/transmission end of the driver shaft are still good.
My u joint went and it wrecked my seal on my transfer case. There was slight play on the shaft just before it entered the transfer case so I opened it up and replaced the rear bushing and added a case saver while I was in there and replaced the transmission to transfer case adapter seal as well.
I had to have my joints heated up using acetylene/oxygen mix. Apparently propane plumbing nozzel does reach a hot enough temp. to melt out the factory plastic.
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Rivieraracing
Full Access Member
Finished up my side mirror signal mod today, gonna get some video to post up tonight!! Still on the fence about how they look but they will work!!
Oshkosh
Full Access Member
The propane nozzle I picked up (Harbor freight also $14.99) worked well for me in conjunction with the service tool and a 1/2" impact gun.
Took me about a solid hour total to remove and install both u-joints out of the truck.
I heated up the yokes until the plastic squirted out(maybe 5 minutes) didnt even use a whole bottle on the job(less than $2.00 worth), then got the ridge good and warm around the caps, squirted some PB blaster around the ridge/caps let that sit for a minute or two, screwed the tool on and started working the caps. They didnt fly off mind you ,took a few minutes as I only have a 20 gal tank on my compressor here at the house.
After about five minutes working the u-joint popped out, then I removed the cap and pushed it back threw the other side with the tool and removed that cap and so on...
Once I had the joint out I heated the groove with the torch and used a flat screw driver blade and removed the rest of the plastic/nylon stuff.Then I took a wire brush and cleaned everything up before pressing the new u-joint in. They did go right in after everything was cleaned up.Installed the clips, tapped the yokes to free up the joints and everything was nice and smooth.
I cleaned and re greased the yoke spline ,lined up my marks and slid everything back together.Bolted the front caps on and torqued to 19ftlbs , road tested, noise gone
Now to replace my fan belt,squeek driving me nuts.lol
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