What did you do to your NBS GMT800 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

[5x10]

The hardest one is the cowl screw, once you remove it never put it back you don't need it, 2 screws will hold it up. The actuator screws are kinda ****** but not to bad. If you have dual zone you have an actuator on top as well BTW.

Luckily, I only had the 2 accessible screw to take out, looks like the previous owner never put the third one back in

Actuator wasn’t too bad, the screw towards the drivers side was a ***** to get out but that cause I didn’t have the right tool, had to work it out slowly

 

[TEXCHEVY]

Today new coil springs

 

[Run4st]

replaced driver side mirror with one from Buddy Bazos for $20...other had turned yellow.

 

[Saucy_Walnuts]

Was not today but yesterday evening I replaced both front rotors, calipers, and pads on my 03 Yukon. The old ones were junk and the calipers were rusty as heck. So I used the nearly new calipers and pads with the new rotors off my parts frame for it. I'll say a vacuum brake bleeder is the way to go when doing brakes. Next is pulling the upper control arms off and putting new bushings and ball joints on then getting a alignment. Can't beat getting a roller frame with all new front end parts for $200

 

[strutaeng]

I did the 2019+ brake upgrade on my 99 Silverado last weekend. Also replaced the hubs because they were shot at 272k. Driving it work this week in city highway congestion to make sure everything is good. Truck stops so much better now

 

[SilverSport]

replaced the CHMSL (3rd brake light) with a Dorman 923203...hardest part was dealing with the near 100 degree heat while doing what should have been a simple plug n play...works like new as mine has had a couple LEDs out since I bought it 2 years ago and was most recently "sparkling" when applying the brakes...

Rock Auto had the part delivered to my door (early ) for about $20 less than anywhere else I could find for the same part...

Bill

 

[Tonyrodz]

replaced the CHMSL (3rd brake light) with a Dorman 923203...hardest part was dealing with the near 100 degree heat while doing what should have been a simple plug n play...works like new as mine has had a couple LEDs out since I bought it 2 years ago and was most recently "sparkling" when applying the brakes...

Rock Auto had the part delivered to my door (early ) for about $20 less than anywhere else I could find for the same part...

Bill

Cheaper then Amazon?

 

[bubbz22]

Cheaper then Amazon?

Just looked because I need one too. The part itself is $35 vs $54 on Amazon, but shipping on Rock is at least $9. Still comes out slightly cheaper on Rock.

 

[blondie70]

Got some parts on Rock last nite and the discount paid the shipping !!! (got discount code off the forum)

 

[SilverSport]

Cheaper then Amazon?

yes...even with shipping...by about $20...I was surprised...then I received it 4 days earlier than USPS and Rockauto predicted...

Bill

 

[SilverSport]

Just looked because I need one too. The part itself is $35 vs $54 on Amazon, but shipping on Rock is at least $9. Still comes out slightly cheaper on Rock.

that's a better price on Amazon than when I looked but my RockAuto price still beat that by $10...

Bill

 

[Gmg0547]

Went to the pick and pull to get a rear HVAC case and a few interior pieces and come back with way more then planned. Picked up some Denali center console pieces to redo, a brake controller harness, owners manual and some other odds and ends.

 

[ScottyBoy]

Went to the pick and pull to get a rear HVAC case and a few interior pieces and come back with way more then planned. Picked up some Denali center console pieces to redo, a brake controller harness, owners manual and some other odds and ends.

Im the same way when I go to the Pick-N-Pull yard. I go in looking for one specific item, and end up staying there for over 2 hours pulling other random parts that I come across. Most recently, I pulled a towing hitch from a Chevy Traverse and installed it on my wife's Chevy Traverse. Does she need it? No, but its good to have if we ever want to attach a hitch carrier or bike rack or something, or even tow a small trailer. For $28 out the door, I couldn't pass it up.

 

[Gmg0547]

Im the same way when I go to the Pick-N-Pull yard. I go in looking for one specific item, and end up staying there for over 2 hours pulling other random parts that I come across. Most recently, I pulled a towing hitch from a Chevy Traverse and installed it on my wife's Chevy Traverse. Does she need it? No, but its good to have if we ever want to attach a hitch carrier or bike rack or something, or even tow a small trailer. For $28 out the door, I couldn't pass it up.

Oh man, you nailed it! I could stay out there for hours and have to hold myself back, if I stumble upon a nice find. My wife thinks I'm crazy for it.

One cool thing I saw was a group of younger kids, probably around 18/19, get super excited when they stumbled up a 90's Chevy truck having what they needed to keep their truck running. I always hear the younger folks have no interest in autos so it was just nice to see.

 

[ncalvo]

meant to do the work a few months ago but changed out diff fluid front and rear and then an oil change at 227k
used valvoline full synthetic 75w-90

 

[blueinkd]

My rear heater quick connectors were leaking so I went ahead and completed a backyard fix. Similar thing I did when my shorties were touching the aluminum heater line in the engine bay.
Dorman 800-419 × 2
1/2 inch heater hose.
Tubing cutter- i cut the rubber hose right next to the factory crimp.

Also added the PPV fans with 9/7 blades cause my factory fans finally went bye bye.

 

[ScottyBoy]

meant to do the work a few months ago but changed out diff fluid front and rear and then an oil change at 227k
used valvoline full synthetic 75w-90View attachment 461159

Just a "pro-tip" for doing the rear diff gasket. I replaced mine quite a few times and it kept leaking barely a month or two later. After someone on this forum (or it may have been another one that I frequent. I've slept since then, so I cant remember for sure) mentioned that I should try a "Lube-locker" brand gasket. It goes on COMPLETELY dry, no sealant, no RTV, NOTHING. And it's re-useable as well! I've already re-used it once and had zero issues. Hands down, its the best rear diff cover gasket that I have ever owned. Since I switched over to the Lube-Locker brand gasket I have not had any signs of a leak ever since.

 

[dps01]

Lube-Locker brand

Used these on my 1987 GN.
Zero leaks… Somewhat pricey, but worth it.

 

[ncalvo]

Just a "pro-tip" for doing the rear diff gasket. I replaced mine quite a few times and it kept leaking barely a month or two later. After someone on this forum (or it may have been another one that I frequent. I've slept since then, so I cant remember for sure) mentioned that I should try a "Lube-locker" brand gasket. It goes on COMPLETELY dry, no sealant, no RTV, NOTHING. And it's re-useable as well! I've already re-used it once and had zero issues. Hands down, its the best rear diff cover gasket that I have ever owned. Since I switched over to the Lube-Locker brand gasket I have not had any signs of a leak ever since.

awesome thanks for the info, I used an oem gasket and just a little rtv on low spots/nicks
next time i'm in there i'll give that a shot, might also swap the cover to one with a drain fitting

 

[Scottydoggs]

for the last week or so i was getting a vibration from the right front, it was small and im only at 70 mph for like 1/2 a mile on the hwy when it would do it. today it felt worse. sadly had to work today, but only 1/2 day, so i rotated the tires in all of 15 minutes, both sides. still cant believe i did it that fast, even gave the front end a quick check over. no more vibration at all. front tires were cupped pretty good too. they were likely right about the 6,000 mile mark, when i normally do my rotations.

pro tip for those who may not know, with a 3 ton jack you can lift one whole side in the air with the jack on the frame between the doors. then swap front to back. repeat on the other side.