What did you do to your NBS GMT800 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

[Rocket Man]

This one had me flummoxed for a while - the one still connected in the picture. I used my Lisle tool that worked on the filter and the lines to the rail but it didn't seem to work. Gave it a couple days of thought and some helpful chats with @Fless who presented another possibility - to remove those lines from the tank and leave them on the body. He also requested pics of the lines to help future TYF folks. After taking a picture, I pressed on the line and heard a click. Damnit, just needed a firmer tug...lol. Was able to disconnect it successfully.

View attachment 368376

I hate those things. Makes me angry just looking at them.

 

[Fless]

This one had me flummoxed for a while - the one still connected in the picture. I used my Lisle tool that worked on the filter and the lines to the rail but it didn't seem to work. Gave it a couple days of thought and some helpful chats with @Fless who presented another possibility - to remove those lines from the tank and leave them on the body. He also requested pics of the lines to help future TYF folks. After taking a picture, I pressed on the line and heard a click. Damnit, just needed a firmer tug...lol. Was able to disconnect it successfully.

View attachment 368376

As noted, I just ignore those and unsnap the lines from the top of the tank, and disconnect the lines at the pump. Too much of a hassle for me to mess with those front connectors.

 

[mwilson62000]

Used it to pull a new utility trailer home! After years of borrowing my best friends trailer, finally decided to get one. 5x10.

 

[Walchit]

Brand new bearings had some weird nicks/scuffs on them. 2 different sets...
I ended up scraping the second one with a razor and hitting it with a little 2500 grit. The scuffs had to have happened before they packaged them, cause they were in spots that didn't touch other bearings in the package.
Ended up getting it in, but I haven't decided which RTV to use on the side bolts for the main caps. Put a little primer on them last night. Think I'm gonna paint them.

 

[mattbta]

Finished the fuel pump install. It runs!

Still have the extended crank/no start randomly.

 

[Rocket Man]

A

Finished the fuel pump install. It runs!

Still have the extended crank/no start randomly.

At least you know the fuel pump isn’t the problem!

 

[mattbta]

A

At least you know the fuel pump isn’t the problem!

At 166k, figured it was an ok parts cannon move. Did the FPR on the rail first. Now I'm stumped. I'll start a thread later.

 

[Rocket Man]

At 166k, figured it was an ok parts cannon move. Did the FPR on the rail first. Now I'm stumped. I'll start a thread later.

That was just good maintenance then.

 

[Logan5]

At 166k, figured it was an ok parts cannon move. Did the FPR on the rail first. Now I'm stumped. I'll start a thread later.

This sounds familiar. I was having a similar problem which was why I replaced my fuel pump as well. The pump wasn't bad I had a small fuel leak in fuel pump housing. I was losing fuel pressure when it sat for a while and then when I went to start it wouldn't start right up. Replacing my pump solved my leak, but maybe you have a leak somewhere down the line?

I never noticed any fuel because it would evap before I could see anything. And in hindsight I would recall occasionally noticing a smell but never thought anything of it (esp with all the other strange smells around)

 

[Dantheman1540]

Finished the fuel pump install. It runs!

Still have the extended crank/no start randomly.

When that happened to me it was the cam position sensor. I replaced it with one from auto zone and it was still doing it, I checked everything else possible and finally pulled an OEM one out of another known good motor and its been working since.

 

[Walchit]

My wife started adding up receipts... let's just say new bolts are definitely out of the budget now, lol. Except for exhaust bolts, what do I have to get so they aren't breaking off in the head like the stock ones?

 

[Scottydoggs]

My wife started adding up receipts... let's just say new bolts are definitely out of the budget now, lol. Except for exhaust bolts, what do I have to get so they aren't breaking off in the head like the stock ones?

best to buy exhaust manifold studs, least set i bought might have been 30 bucks. they clamp the manifold on nice and tight, you'll notice how much more tq you can give them nuts vs then crap stock bolts. I got my last set at my local napa a few years back now. i brought a old stock bolt into the store with me and matched up a set just to be sure i got the right thread and pitch size.

ps: NEVER LET THE WIFE SEE THE RECEIPTS......LOL

 

[mattbta]

When that happened to me it was the cam position sensor. I replaced it with one from auto zone and it was still doing it, I checked everything else possible and finally pulled an OEM one out of another known good motor and its been working since.

Coincidentally, a few months back I had an rear main seal done at a shop as I had a bad leak. Half the leak was coming from the cam position sensor, apparently i buggered up the o-ring installing when I was doing my cracked heads. They replaced mine with a Carquest part and that's when the problem showed up. They did a crank relearn at my request and we checked fuel pressures and things seemed ok. Decided on my own to just throw a few parts at it. I think I'm going to take it back and leave it with them to figure out. That or I could just order an OEM and do it myself, but my confidence is down.

 

[Tonyrodz]

Coincidentally, a few months back I had an rear main seal done at a shop as I had a bad leak. Half the leak was coming from the cam position sensor, apparently i buggered up the o-ring installing when I was doing my cracked heads. They replaced mine with a Carquest part and that's when the problem showed up. They did a crank relearn at my request and we checked fuel pressures and things seemed ok. Decided on my own to just throw a few parts at it. I think I'm going to take it back and leave it with them to figure out. That or I could just order an OEM and do it myself, but my confidence is down.

I would def throw an oem sensor on there 1st. Can't hurt.

 

[Tonyrodz]

Deja Vu.
Thanks to @iamdub's knowledge, just ordered some mufflers for it too.

 

[iamdub]

Deja Vu.View attachment 368564
Thanks to @iamdub's knowledge, just ordered some mufflers for it too.

Why's she on the gurney again?

 

[Tonyrodz]

Why's she on the gurney again?

Broken rearend.

 

[iamdub]

Broken rearend.

Oh. Last I knew, you hadn't determined what it was just yet. I guess that's better than being the trans. Sucks, no matter what.

 

[Tonyrodz]

Oh. Last I knew, you hadn't determined what it was just yet. I guess that's better than being the trans. Sucks, no matter what.

I'm 90% sure it's the rear. There's still that 10% tho....

 

[Walchit]

best to buy exhaust manifold studs, least set i bought might have been 30 bucks. they clamp the manifold on nice and tight, you'll notice how much more tq you can give them nuts vs then crap stock bolts. I got my last set at my local napa a few years back now. i brought a old stock bolt into the store with me and matched up a set just to be sure i got the right thread and pitch size.

ps: NEVER LET THE WIFE SEE THE RECEIPTS......LOL

Nice, I didn't even think about studs, that sounds like a much better idea.
We've been using tax return money, so there's no hiding receipts. Lol