What did you do to your NBS GMT800 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

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Sam Harris

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Today, I finally cleaned up the interior -somewhat, vacuumed at least.. and washed and half a detail.. really need to get a good coat of wax on her before the snow hits…
 

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Sam Harris

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Oh, and another post efan conversion update….

So since installing the ARH longtubes, it’s been clear the proximity to my trans lines raise the temp of the trans quickly.. I’ve been fine, after wrapping the lines with some heat shield, and of course, installing the Trucool 40k… but an interesting change, since installing the efans… the trans temp is higher whenever I’m idling, since there’s no air moving through, and the efans only come on as needed, much more efficiently than the clutch fan… so when idling, the trans temp is much higher than it was with the old clutch fan.. so today, while sitting at the car wash waiting in line I observed this.. nothing crazy or anything, but with the clutch fan, it would typically barely move off the lowest bar, around 120°… now, it’s sitting at about 160-180°… so what would help that.. I cranked on the A/C, to kick the fan speed up, and watched that lower my trans temp, which used to make it go higher! Lol. :rockit:

ETA: yes, I go to the automatic car wash… it’s a touch less one.. I use that to get the grime washed off, then bring her home and do another round with my Chemical Guys Hybrid V7 “Optical Select High Gloss Sealant” (love this stuff..!)
 

Fless

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Today, I finally cleaned up the interior -somewhat, vacuumed at least.. and washed and half a detail.. really need to get a good coat of wax on her before the snow hits…

Dude, time to apply that "22" sticker on your plate! LOL

Not like you'd get a ticket around here anyway even if the one on it was a "20." Still seeing lots of those.
 

Teamiez

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Two days ago, I finally did the Cabin Air Filter retrofit kit from Dorman. I had purchased it a long while back, but hadn’t gotten to it yet. I also bought a “hot knife”, thinking this would make the job a lot easier, and cleaner… that knife lasted all of about 5 minutes… the “chrome” part that holds the blade is actually brass, with a chrome plate on it.. POS started flexing, so I tightened it, and took my time… but even doing that, the damn thing broke right away. I even tried to drill it out, as it comes with a spare, but when I went to remove the broken threads, the whole assembly broke, and dropped into the iron sleeve. Lesson learned.. if you want a hot knife, you’ll have to spend the $100+ to get a real one… so moved to the dremel plastic blade, and the good ol’ utility knife. I’ve gotta say, for as simple as this little project should be, it was a royal PITA in my opinion. Glad it’s done, but not anything near as clean as I was aiming for. And yes, I did get the one screw that’s impossible to get out / back in, in place where it belongs.. ;)
Is this for trucks that did not come with a cabin air filter? By the one impossible screw you talk about is that the back of blower motor cover I am guessing?
 

clandr1

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I took the Yukon pig hunting this weekend. Here's a picture I snapped with my FLIR Breach thermal monocular while the truck was parked in front of the cabin. The rough roads tossed me around but it did just fine! I stopped by the power wash to get a little mud and dirt off and then gave it a hand wash when I got home. It's back to looking shiny and new(ish) again!

IMG099.jpeg
 

Sparksalot

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Two days ago, I finally did the Cabin Air Filter retrofit kit from Dorman. I had purchased it a long while back, but hadn’t gotten to it yet. I also bought a “hot knife”, thinking this would make the job a lot easier, and cleaner… that knife lasted all of about 5 minutes… the “chrome” part that holds the blade is actually brass, with a chrome plate on it.. POS started flexing, so I tightened it, and took my time… but even doing that, the damn thing broke right away. I even tried to drill it out, as it comes with a spare, but when I went to remove the broken threads, the whole assembly broke, and dropped into the iron sleeve. Lesson learned.. if you want a hot knife, you’ll have to spend the $100+ to get a real one… so moved to the dremel plastic blade, and the good ol’ utility knife. I’ve gotta say, for as simple as this little project should be, it was a royal PITA in my opinion. Glad it’s done, but not anything near as clean as I was aiming for. And yes, I did get the one screw that’s impossible to get out / back in, in place where it belongs.. ;)
I used a utility knife when I did thecopcar. what a pita. When I did the mod on theothertwin, I used a new hardback razor blade heated with a mini torch. That worked like a champ.
 

latvius

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I used a utility knife when I did thecopcar. what a pita. When I did the mod on theothertwin, I used a new hardback razor blade heated with a mini torch. That worked like a champ.
I used a dremel with a small drill bit, use it like the knife. For precision cuts dont apply too much pressure let the bit do the work.
 

Scottydoggs

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How did you hold the razor when its red hot?

ive used a utility knife and heated the blade red hot to cut plastic. safest way to heat a razor blade up.

edit, id also use a fixed blade knife. not a retractable knife. these have plastic inside and it can melt, and ive ripped blades out of them in the past with no heat on it.

Stanley 299 iirc is the good one i used to buy. one would last me 5-6 years when i was roofing. (if i didnt lose it of course lol )
 
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Stonefort

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Oh, and another post efan conversion update….

So since installing the ARH longtubes, it’s been clear the proximity to my trans lines raise the temp of the trans quickly.. I’ve been fine, after wrapping the lines with some heat shield, and of course, installing the Trucool 40k… but an interesting change, since installing the efans… the trans temp is higher whenever I’m idling, since there’s no air moving through, and the efans only come on as needed, much more efficiently than the clutch fan… so when idling, the trans temp is much higher than it was with the old clutch fan.. so today, while sitting at the car wash waiting in line I observed this.. nothing crazy or anything, but with the clutch fan, it would typically barely move off the lowest bar, around 120°… now, it’s sitting at about 160-180°… so what would help that.. I cranked on the A/C, to kick the fan speed up, and watched that lower my trans temp, which used to make it go higher! Lol. :rockit:

ETA: yes, I go to the automatic car wash… it’s a touch less one.. I use that to get the grime washed off, then bring her home and do another round with my Chemical Guys Hybrid V7 “Optical Select High Gloss Sealant” (love this stuff..!)

I did my efan conversion this weekend as well. I wanted to say that I don't have a trans temp gauge (other than data logging it), but I can tell my idling trans temps are higher now because I am getting a very slight slide into second gear from first, which happened on extremely hot days, driving slow in traffic, with very light throttle. I was able to tune it out using pressure modifiers on the 1-2 shift in HP Tuners this summer. I need to revisit my tune to see if I can add a bit more pressure in that part of the tune - very light throttle whith trans temp at 160 to 170. ( I got the temp from data log).

Ok just looked at the tune and that portion of the graph still has negative numbers for pressure modify, I am going to bump up a couple points and see how it goes. I am very conservative with my tunes, I only added enough the first time around to keep the 1-2 slide away. Nothing crazy over factory settings.

Anyway, just wanted to share that.
 

915_Tahoe

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Can you just get an extended hardened one from the hardware store?
Not sure, I'm having lots of issues right in the front suspension.

Put new front bump stops but the arms are basically hitting the bump stop bracket, so those stops are flattened like pancakes. The stabilizer links are scratching the brake lines, the outter tie rods are rubbing on the lower control arms, the steering linkage is rubbing on the swaybar bushings and I have the keys maxed out on lift but when I go over speed bumps the truck just slams hard and the front struts are so compressed there is no travel for cushioning.

I'm at the point of just putting back on the stock keys and lowering it from there and removing the 2" lowering keys.

Unless you all have any suggestions, that would be great.
 

Tonyrodz

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Not sure, I'm having lots of issues right in the front suspension.

Put new front bump stops but the arms are basically hitting the bump stop bracket, so those stops are flattened like pancakes. The stabilizer links are scratching the brake lines, the outter tie rods are rubbing on the lower control arms, the steering linkage is rubbing on the swaybar bushings and I have the keys maxed out on lift but when I go over speed bumps the truck just slams hard and the front struts are so compressed there is no travel for cushioning.

I'm at the point of just putting back on the stock keys and lowering it from there and removing the 2" lowering keys.

Unless you all have any suggestions, that would be great.
I'd try the stock keys. Nothing to lose right now. See how it rides and looks, and maybe go from there.
 

Stonefort

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Can anyone help me find the factory hardware for the 2005 -06 electric fan shroud? Looks like it would be some rubber pads, washers, and the two bolts. I'm just not happy with my hardware store bolts and washers. Looks hacky.
 

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