What did you do to your NBS GMT800 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

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HiHoeSilver

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Finally got to the trans fluid and filter change. AC Delco Dexron VI from Amazon. AC Delco filter and seal #24208576 (I didn't use the pan gasket).

View attachment 209323

Fluid was DARK.

View attachment 209327

I did remove the linkage bracket (driver side, T40 torx) and the heat shield (passenger side, 10mm). Pan came down easy peasy. No prying, pulling, or anything. Just the right angle and down it came.
Pretty good bit of sludge on the magnet, but no shards or chunks...

View attachment 209324

All cleaned up and Lubelocker gasket...

View attachment 209326

The filter seal was hard to get out, but I managed to get an edge bent away and got ahold of it with a little pliers.

View attachment 209328

Since BlackBear is in two weeks and I had the fluid out, I decided to make a day of it. You guessed it, Vette servo! Followed this:

https://www.performancetrucks.net/f...22/corvette-servo-install-w-alot-pics-476223/

Went as planned. I didn't get any pics of this because it was getting dark and started raining. I was going as fast as I could while still respecting the fact that I was working on my transmission. Getting the snap ring back in sucks.

Finished the flush and used the stick to get the level close. I put it through all the gears in idle and double checked. Then I took it around the block a few times. 1-2 shift is nice. With the little sprinkle going, it even got loose for a sec at WOT. Sweet. So far so good.

Got home, put it through the gears in idle again, rechecked the fluid level, and topped it off. Will check hot again tomorrow. Follow up later.

Update: checked it after the drive home the next day (a good 1/2 hour) and topped her off just a touch. Crawled underneath, no signs of any leaks. I notice the servo on the 2-3 as well as the 1-2. It is definitely a little firmer on both. All other shifts are good and smooth. Now I just hope it stays that way as I know this service was a bit overdue.

Whoa, Mister Accomplishment lol. That’s quite a bit of work. Good job.

The pile of parts was getting to big, and I didn't want @Galante to develop an inferiority complex. Just over a week until black bear, so one or two more things coming quick...
 

06JET

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So I think I found out why my AC pressures are high. 90 on the low and 400 on the high. I did not flush the oil out of the system and the compressor I bought had the oil charge in it ready to go. I lost about 3 oz of oil when I changed the condenser so I added 3 oz when I charged it back up. Now I guess I have twice the amount of oil in the system so it is pumping it thru the orifice tube like a fire hose and building up the pressure on both sides. That is what I have been able to find during my google reading time anyway. I guess I need to drain some out. I had the system depressurized today.

Where should I open the system to get the oil to drain?
 

jarydM

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Had it towed
Update:

Replaced starter. Truck is back to running at top shape. Still have a few leaks, but they’re slow. Rear main oil leak is losing less than a quart between changes.

Still don’t know where the coolant is going or why, but it isn’t in the oil.
 

Tonyrodz

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Update:

Replaced starter. Truck is back to running at top shape. Still have a few leaks, but they’re slow. Rear main oil leak is losing less than a quart between changes.

Still don’t know where the coolant is going or why, but it isn’t in the oil.
On my 4.8 before the swap, I also was losing coolant, I'd maybe lose 1/2 of the overflow every month 1/2. Wasn't leaking, no excessive steam from the tailpipe. I just chalked it up to the mileage, maybe getting past the headgaskets a little and burning in the cylinders. At the time it was around 275,000. Not losing coolant anymore.
 

mattbta

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Update:

Replaced starter. Truck is back to running at top shape. Still have a few leaks, but they’re slow. Rear main oil leak is losing less than a quart between changes.

Still don’t know where the coolant is going or why, but it isn’t in the oil.
If you can, have the system pressurized. Either you do it or a shop. I've been losing coolant ever since I had my water pump replaced. I feared castech heads. Fortunately when I had a shop pressurize the system it was leaking from the pump and I'd have never known since it dripped onto the engine and burned off. I'll do another pump/gasket myself. So glad my heads aren't cracked.
 

jarydM

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If you can, have the system pressurized. Either you do it or a shop. I've been losing coolant ever since I had my water pump replaced. I feared castech heads. Fortunately when I had a shop pressurize the system it was leaking from the pump and I'd have never known since it dripped onto the engine and burned off. I'll do another pump/gasket myself. So glad my heads aren't cracked.

I think this is my issue as well, because I went through 2 new water pumps (remanufactured) before one sealed well enough not to leak it out in a giant misty cloud of dexcool as I drove around.

This one didn’t leak a drop until after the wreck, which broke the original reservoir, and it’s leaked from somewhere since they “fixed” it.

I also worry I could have a leak at the head, but if I do, it’s insignificant enough not to show in the oil so far. Engine swap is in the future for the old girl either way, so for now just gonna keep on keeping on.
 
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HiHoeSilver

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I think this is my issue as well, because I went through 2 new water pumps (remanufactured) before one sealed well enough not to leak it out in a giant misty cloud of dexcool as I drove around.

This one didn’t leak a drop until after the wreck, which broke the original reservoir, and it’s leaked from somewhere since they “fixed” it.

I also worry I could have a leak at the head, but if I do, it’s insignificant enough not to show in the oil so far. Engine swap is in the future for the old girl either way, so for now just gonna keep on keeping on.

You could send an oil sample to Blackstone to set if there's any signs of coolant.
 

Pilot

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As far as bodyshop recommendations if you're willing to travel, I'd recommend Rico's Autobody in robbinsville Nj

So I finally called Rico’s body shop. The call did not go well.

Me: “Hi I’m looking for a custom paint job for my 2002 Tahoe.”

Rico’s employee: “What do you mean a ‘custom paint job?’”

Me: “uhh.. I wasn’t in an accident, I don’t want insurance work, I just want to paint my truck a new color.”

Rico’s employee: “We don’t do that.”

Me: *click*
 

Rocket Man

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So I finally called Rico’s body shop. The call did not go well.

Me: “Hi I’m looking for a custom paint job for my 2002 Tahoe.”

Rico’s employee: “What do you mean a ‘custom paint job?’”

Me: “uhh.. I wasn’t in an accident, I don’t want insurance work, I just want to paint my truck a new color.”

Rico’s employee: “We don’t do that.”

Me: *click*
Most body shops won’t do a color change. It’s too much work and there’s not enough money in it unless you want to spend $8000-$10000 and they know nobody wants to spend that.
 

Pilot

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Most body shops won’t do a color change. It’s too much work and there’s not enough money in it unless you want to spend $8000-$10000 and they know nobody wants to spend that.

I’ve talked to three paint shops and two wrap shops. My quotes so far for all bodywork plus repaint are $6500 and $8500. I’m trying to keep my budget below $9k.

Assumptions are a necessary optimization, but professionals should definitely make them more wisely, for I am nobody.
 

Rocket Man

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I’ve talked to three paint shops and two wrap shops. My quotes so far for all bodywork plus repaint are $6500 and $8500. I’m trying to keep my budget below $9k.

Assumptions are a necessary optimization, but professionals should definitely make them more wisely, for I am nobody.
Maybe just tell them you want a color change instead of a custom paint job? To me, custom means something completely different but regardless, my friend owns a body shop and he won’t do a color change unless it’s a favor for a buddy. Depending on what’s expected, the whole vehicle needs to be torn apart and that means a ton of parts laying around just waiting to get lost or damaged. He can make more money doing several smaller jobs. My Silverado had a color change and the guy who had it done said it was at the body shop for months. It came back with a lot of small parts missing. To do it right, every bit of trim, hardware, etc needs to come off. So even at $9k they aren’t making anything but labor and then if the customer isn’t happy with anything they end up going backwards.
 

bottomline2000

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Check out what I just found... yeah that’s an Escalade at the local you pull it... but check out what’s underneath!!!

View attachment 208820 View attachment 208821

**EDIT: as soon as I posted this I realized it was a NBS hood. =.( my excitement got the best of me...
I just saw this video and the guy bought a Yukon with this same hood. I wonder if the NNBS HD hood is a direct fit for the NBS Yukons[emoji50][emoji848]

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-T377A using Tapatalk
 

Pilot

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Maybe just tell them you want a color change instead of a custom paint job? To me, custom means something completely different but regardless, my friend owns a body shop and he won’t do a color change unless it’s a favor for a buddy. Depending on what’s expected, the whole vehicle needs to be torn apart and that means a ton of parts laying around just waiting to get lost or damaged. He can make more money doing several smaller jobs. My Silverado had a color change and the guy who had it done said it was at the body shop for months. It came back with a lot of small parts missing. To do it right, every bit of trim, hardware, etc needs to come off. So even at $9k they aren’t making anything but labor and then if the customer isn’t happy with anything they end up going backwards.


I get what you’re saying. Maybe I should just have it wrapped. Here are some mocks I did in Photoshop. I’m leaning toward the first one (my Tahoe is a 2nd gen but couldn’t find good images of that body style in a matte base).

CA913626-6503-4494-8496-8CDD03BE1102.jpeg

753218C4-2D7B-4F29-B565-D0D783CD2599.jpeg

215F5D4C-4858-405E-A960-EA602916A830.jpeg

D86F89F3-B8E1-4604-9D98-81B4C146E0FE.jpeg

FWIW the $8500 quote was for all paint (as opposed to doing the stripes in vinyl).
 
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Rocket Man

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I get what you’re saying. Maybe I should just have it wrapped. Here are some mocks I did in Photoshop. I’m leaning toward the first one (my Tahoe is a 2nd gen but couldn’t find good images of that body style in a matte base).

View attachment 209669

View attachment 209670

View attachment 209668

View attachment 209671

FWIW the $8500 quote was for all paint (as opposed to doing the stripes in vinyl).
A wrap is a good option but of course any bodywork needed to be done first. Even the tiniest dings show through. For the 8500 how extensive was it supposed to be- door jambs, engine compartment, etc.? Mine had everything done and the only way to tell is to pull the carpet or headliner. The front end had been completely disassembled, bumpers removed, etc etc. Engine compartment and underside of hood is repainted, Ive pulled pretty much everything apart and it’s all been repainted except the interior more than about 6” from the edges of the doors.
 

Tonyrodz

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I just saw this video and the guy bought a Yukon with this same hood. I wonder if the NNBS HD hood is a direct fit for the NBS Yukons[emoji50][emoji848]

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-T377A using Tapatalk
Damn shame. Those are the rims I want, but 22's. Which hood is that? NNBS? Not a reg HD hood, the inserts. Looked pretty cool.
 

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