What did you do to your NBS GMT800 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

[ScottyBoy]

Not sure how you feel about the oem part, but I've had bad luck with the aftermarket regulators through the shop I used to work at. Stopped selling the Dorman, and starter buying the Delco from Rock Auto and usually no issues unless the window guides need adjusted/lubed.

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I would LOVE to get an OEM AC Delco regulator, but they are almost $200 each for the rear doors on my Suburban. I saw that Rockauto now has two AC Delco versions for some reason. One says "aftermarket part" and the other one says "OEM Replacement part. And by looking at the pictures of them, the more expensive one is definitely an OEM part, but the "aftermarket" AC Delco version looks IDENTICAL to the Dorman version, right down to the pigtail plug on the motor. So I honestly figured if I bought that one, I'd just be getting a rebranded Dorman part. After all, AC Delco is notorious for slapping their name on other peoples products. So bottom line, I'm gonna have to take my chance on this Dorman regulator because an OEM one cost 4 times as much, and I can't justify that.

And when I said I'm "Changing yet ANOTHER regulator....." I didn't mean that I keep on changing it. I've just had bad luck lately, seems like they all decided to take a shit one after the other. Not the same window over and over, lol.

 

[osiris94ej]

I would LOVE to get an OEM AC Delco regulator, but they are almost $200 each for the rear doors on my Suburban. I saw that Rockauto now has two AC Delco versions for some reason. One says "aftermarket part" and the other one says "OEM Replacement part. And by looking at the pictures of them, the more expensive one is definitely an OEM part, but the "aftermarket" AC Delco version looks IDENTICAL to the Dorman version, right down to the pigtail plug on the motor. So I honestly figured if I bought that one, I'd just be getting a rebranded Dorman part. After all, AC Delco is notorious for slapping their name on other peoples products. So bottom line, I'm gonna have to take my chance on this Dorman regulator because an OEM one cost 4 times as much, and I can't justify that.

And when I said I'm "Changing yet ANOTHER regulator....." I didn't mean that I keep on changing it. I've just had bad luck lately, seems like they all decided to take a shit one after the other. Not the same window over and over, lol.

Oh it's one of the rears. I figured it was the front. But I totally understand. We just had issues with aftermarket parts.

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[ScottyBoy]

Oh it's one of the rears. I figured it was the front. But I totally understand. We just had issues with aftermarket parts.

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Front one just got replaced not too long ago. Those aren't nearly as expensive as the ones on the rear doors. No clue why the price difference though. Sometimes I can't justify the cost. But if its like only $30 more, hell yeah I will buy the better one!
The only time I DNGAF and buy absolute garbage ass parts, is when I'm about to sell the vehicle and I just want it working. I once put 12 dollar brake pads on a Honda because I knew I was selling it in a month or so. Lol

 

[TheAutumnWind]

I also didn't see any major benefit of them, and I was also under the impression that the moogs were a direct oem replacement. They look exactly the same as the stockers when I changed mine. I'm holding off for a couple months and getting the Rare Parts ones. The video I saw of OEM vs Rare Parts sold me!

http://r.ebay.com/sihWQU

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Strengthens the inner rod. Spreads the load out through much more of the threaded inner tie rod, reduced chance to bend them. If your tie rods are failing elsewhere it wouldn't be helpful.

 

[TheAutumnWind]

The first test in that rare parts video where it shows the inner tie rod bending is a good example of what the sleeves would help protect against

 

[pnwdan]

added a little extra fill base to my Denali today. Got the early model OEM box and put this awesome speaker in it lol. Don't knock the speaker haha. I got it for $17 and it sounds great considering. I couldn't find the one I wanted in stock. I'll order it later and swap. I mounted the amp to the side of the box under the panel so everything is hidden.

 

[osiris94ej]

added a little extra fill base to my Denali today. Got the early model OEM box and put this awesome speaker in it lol. Don't knock the speaker haha. I got it for $17 and it sounds great considering. I couldn't find the one I wanted in stock. I'll order it later and swap. I mounted the amp to the side of the box under the panel so everything is hidden.

I've been debating this, just don't know if it will be enough for me. I'm used to far more, but with third row I don't have much space to spare since will still need that tiny bit of cargo room for road trip's. I know it won't hit quite like my previous setups I've had in other vehicles.

Like this..

2.5 cubes @ 38hz.

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[pnwdan]

I've been debating this, just don't know if it will be enough for me. I'm used to far more, but with third row I don't have much space to spare since will still need that tiny bit of cargo room for road trip's. I know it won't hit quite like my previous setups I've had in other vehicles.

Like this..

2.5 cubes @ 38hz.

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Yeah we use our 3rd row daily with our 4 kids so this was the only choice.

 

[osiris94ej]

Yeah we use our 3rd row daily with our 4 kids so this was the only choice.

Same problem here. At a minimum we usually have 2 but at max 5 it's a confusing situation haha. I've been looking at the jl 10" vented power wedge.

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[treehan77]

added a little extra fill base to my Denali today. Got the early model OEM box and put this awesome speaker in it lol. Don't knock the speaker haha. I got it for $17 and it sounds great considering. I couldn't find the one I wanted in stock. I'll order it later and swap. I mounted the amp to the side of the box under the panel so everything is hidden.

put same one in my buddy's truck to replace OEM as a Xmas gift hey his factory system doesn't sound like a mosquito ba band aid box anymore at least

 

[Fosscore]

added a little extra fill base to my Denali today. Got the early model OEM box and put this awesome speaker in it lol. Don't knock the speaker haha. I got it for $17 and it sounds great considering. I couldn't find the one I wanted in stock. I'll order it later and swap. I mounted the amp to the side of the box under the panel so everything is hidden.

Looks good. Why did you cut out the perforated OEM cover instead of just Dremeling out the perf bits? Looks good, just curious. On my list to do for that extra fill and keeping it stealth. @pnwdan

 

[ScottyBoy]

I'm in the same boat. I do use the third row in my Burban very often. I take a road trip to New Orleans every 3-4 months, and that's a 6 hour drive each way. I was considering building some custom subwoofer boxes to fit under the second row seats. I can definitely fit shallow mount woofers under there. I measured, its like 7-8 inches of space to work with. I'll still have to figure out where to mount the amps though.

 

[ScottyBoy]

Looks good. Why did you cut out the perforated OEM cover instead of just Dremeling out the perf bits? Looks good, just curious. On my list to do for that extra fill and keeping it stealth. @pnwdan

Or get the rear inside trim panel from a 00-02 Tahoe/Yukon in the junkyard. I see them all the time. If you got the sub box from an 02, should grab the trim panel too.

 

[Rocket Man]

I've been debating this, just don't know if it will be enough for me. I'm used to far more, but with third row I don't have much space to spare since will still need that tiny bit of cargo room for road trip's. I know it won't hit quite like my previous setups I've had in other vehicles.

Like this..

2.5 cubes @ 38hz.

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I went with the MTX Thunderform enclosure in the stock location behind the left rear panel. It's spendy but makes use of all the available space so I can run a JBL 10" sub off a Soundstream Picasso Nano 450 watt monoblock amp mounted under the 2nd row seat. Completely stealth and it hits pretty good. The Soundstream also has a remote gain adjust so you can adjust bass instantly.

 

[Fosscore]

@Red Rocket

Did your cover come that way or did you Dremel it out? Mine is all filled in and I've seen other guys cut it out. I actually did not pay attention to the trim ring as mentioned by ScottyBoy. Just seeing the differences in what other guys have done. Thanks.

 

[ATIII]

The first test in that rare parts video where it shows the inner tie rod bending is a good example of what the sleeves would help protect against

That's my main problem with the stockers. You shouldn't have to put a cheesy ass sleeve on them so they CAN'T bend and brake. That point of failure shouldn't have even been an issue in the first place, requiring an aftermarket Band-aid for strength.


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[Tonyrodz]

Or get the rear inside trim panel from a 00-02 Tahoe/Yukon in the junkyard. I see them all the time. If you got the sub box from an 02, should grab the trim panel too.

I grabbed the factory sub and box from that 02 my buddy parted out, and that rear grill wasn't perforated. From the looks of it didn't even look like anything was in it until I pulled the panel.

 

[pnwdan]

I grabbed the factory sub and box from that 02 my buddy parted out, and that rear grill wasn't perforated. From the looks of it didn't even look like anything was in it until I pulled the panel.View attachment 63564 View attachment 63565

That's the Bose subwoofer. Totally different configuration

 

[pnwdan]

Looks good. Why did you cut out the perforated OEM cover instead of just Dremeling out the perf bits? Looks good, just curious. On my list to do for that extra fill and keeping it stealth. @pnwdan

Honestly.... because I just spent a ton of time trimming this up with my Dremmel and had had enough of it. Lol

 

[Tonyrodz]

Maybe that's why then. Think it would or could work as a regular sub box? Guess I'd have to change the sub that's in it. Just hook it up as a regular sub box?