What did you do to your NBS GMT800 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

[PG01]

@Rocket Man

Damn red rocket

 

[Rocket Man]

Mine is an LS1fans.com harness, bought it about 1 1/2 years ago. It first burned out 2 relays, then next time melted the relay block itself and the fuse holders too. Left me stranded in 105 degree temps because the engine overheated. I rebuilt it using 80 amp relays, mega fuse holders, bigger wire, etc but I still don't trust it so I ordered an OEM harness from @ScottyBoy. I no longer recommend anybody's aftermarket harness, there seems to be something missing in their design. I have no idea about Nelson's harness but they have a reputation for melting and I haven't heard anything about them fixing the design.

 

[inmypassatlife]

Keep us posted about this. Maybe even start a separate thread. This will be VERY useful information for anyone who has to replace their ignition key cylinder.

I may have to start my own thread, this has been a nightmare. I have a guy coming out tonight with a Tech2, hopefully he can figure out why it does not let me go into the relearn mode. I am still on the OEM BCM, have the replacement one just in case thats the issue. I want the guy to take a look at the BCM for codes and see if he can get into the PCM and take out the need for VATS/Passlock communication so the truck doesn't cut off fuel to injectors. He has said that he's worked on trucks where owners replaced BCM, PCM, harness, ignition cylinder, and housing and truck still wouldt stay on. I am at a loss if this happens.

 

[Sevenevez]

finally got rid of the ugly rear wiper (cheap way using plugs)

before

after

 

[JollyRoger01]

Your best bet is to get an OEM harness, the aftermarket ones have the issues with the relays, the OEM ones mount behind the under hood fuse box away from the heat for the most part the aftermarket ones mount a lot closer to the engine, if the wiring was longer you wouldn't have that issue, I've heard some that say the aftermarket wiring isn't as good as the OEM setup, here's the OEM harness I'll be using after I get the fans turned on in the PCM

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Thanks for the input. That was my first choice but most yards around me won't let you pick n pull and eBay was about $30 more. I may just end up reworking the Nelson harness to wire tuck it and keep the relays away from the heat.

 

[Fosscore]

finally got rid of the ugly rear wiper (cheap way using plugs)

before

after

Cheap and clean FTW!!

 

[Sevenevez]

Cheap and clean FTW!!

haha for real. total cost was about $1.20

 

[S33k3r]

haha for real. total cost was about $1.20

Out of curiosity, how long did it take you to pull the parts off?

 

[Sevenevez]

Out of curiosity, how long did it take you to pull the parts off?

maybe 30 minutes.
remove rubber boot on outside of arm. pull the arm off. pop the big plastic interior surround off, then the lower half plastic with the strap has a screw in it. (was easier to pull it off once you pop the window release to get the plastic off)
unbolt the wiper motor and black plastic rest for the arm. zip tied the plug and the tube so it doesnt rattle. then button it all back up. done deal

 

[95escahoe]

Thanks for the input. That was my first choice but most yards around me won't let you pick n pull and eBay was about $30 more. I may just end up reworking the Nelson harness to wire tuck it and keep the relays away from the heat.

No problem, if the Nelson one doesn't work there's a member on here that sells the OEM ones that's where I got mine from


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[JollyRoger01]

Finally got this done.

 

[PG01]

Finally got this done.

View attachment 184522

What? No pencil? Smh

 

[HiHoeSilver]

Thanks for the input. That was my first choice but most yards around me won't let you pick n pull and eBay was about $30 more. I may just end up reworking the Nelson harness to wire tuck it and keep the relays away from the heat.

My understanding is that the heat problems on these is a matter of current overdraw, or underrated components, however you want to think of it. I don't think it's gonna matter how or where you put it. It's a mfging issue.

 

[Rocket Man]

Thanks for the input. That was my first choice but most yards around me won't let you pick n pull and eBay was about $30 more. I may just end up reworking the Nelson harness to wire tuck it and keep the relays away from the heat.

My understanding is that the heat problems on these is a matter of current overdraw, or underrated components, however you want to think of it. I don't think it's gonna matter how or where you put it. It's a mfging issue.

Mine definitely had nothing to do with location, it was either a bad design or undersized wiring and relay block. The first time it blew fuses and the fuse holders almost melted as well as the wire leading to them, and they were right next to the battery, nowhere near any heat. I replaced the fuses and holders and ran larger gauge wire to them. Next time the relays melted the relay block that they were mounted in, and that also was away from any heat source. It was obviously from drawing more current than the harness was designed for. Here's the original feed wire. I ran 2 larger gauge wires to 2 50-amp MegaFuse holders and used 80 amp relays and blocks.

 

[mdnitedrftr]

Finally got this done.

View attachment 184522

Did you just screw a holster in there, or is that a special holster?

 

[JollyRoger01]

Did you just screw a holster in there, or is that a special holster?

I bought an extra serpa holster and took the paddle off. Then pulled the box out, and drilled 3 holes to match the mounting of the holster.

 

[JollyRoger01]

What? No pencil? Smh

It'll be my next MOD for sure lol

 

[inmypassatlife]

I may have to start my own thread, this has been a nightmare. I have a guy coming out tonight with a Tech2, hopefully he can figure out why it does not let me go into the relearn mode. I am still on the OEM BCM, have the replacement one just in case thats the issue. I want the guy to take a look at the BCM for codes and see if he can get into the PCM and take out the need for VATS/Passlock communication so the truck doesn't cut off fuel to injectors. He has said that he's worked on trucks where owners replaced BCM, PCM, harness, ignition cylinder, and housing and truck still wouldt stay on. I am at a loss if this happens.

Boom! BCM reflashed key relearn, and we are back in business! FYI, I had to remove my cluster and then plugged it back in 10 mins later. All warning lights came back on then did the relearn. So, $300 isn't bad for a repair. If it was 500+ I'd really be pissed!

Of course the rental car was another $100, but some of the numbers being thrown at me for this repair were outrageous and saved myself a few hundy not going to an independent and definitely not the dealer.

 

[Rocket Man]

Boom! BCM reflashed key relearn, and we are back in business! FYI, I had to remove my cluster and then plugged it back in 10 mins later. All warning lights came back on then did the relearn. So, $300 isn't bad for a repair. If it was 500+ I'd really be pissed!

Of course the rental car was another $100, but some of the numbers being thrown at me for this repair were outrageous and saved myself a few hundy not going to an independent and definitely not the dealer.

With the original BCM or the new one?

 

[inmypassatlife]

With the original BCM or the new one?

New BCM, I have a feeling that issue was always existent with the cluster but I ain't trying to find out so new BCM is staying in place...it will always be a mystery lol