What did you do to your 2015-2020 K2XX Tahoe/Yukon Today?

[DoubleDingo]

What I've done so far, replaced drl bulbs, wiper blades, license plate frames to get rid of the used car dealer bs, topped off brake fluid, removed 3rd row seats so the dogs can have the back.

Ordered floor mats for 1st and 2nd row, it came with the rear mat for the cargo area. Also ordered the third brake light.

Most likely need to replace the JVC head unit, as it won't even turn on. If you push the cd eject button you can hear the motor, but no display, no sound, nothing when any other buttons are pushed.

 

[DoubleDingo]

Got it insured. Bought it Saturday

I realized just now that I posted this in the wrong thread. Fricken newb! Get with with the program. I have a 2005. Mods, if you want to move this, go ahead.

 

[DoubleDingo]

What I've done so far, replaced drl bulbs, wiper blades, license plate frames to get rid of the used car dealer bs, topped off brake fluid, removed 3rd row seats so the dogs can have the back.

Ordered floor mats for 1st and 2nd row, it came with the rear mat for the cargo area. Also ordered the third brake light.

Most likely need to replace the JVC head unit, as it won't even turn on. If you push the cd eject button you can hear the motor, but no display, no sound, nothing when any other buttons are pushed.

This post as well mods.

 

[Sparksalot]

This post as well mods.

Don’t sweat the small stuff.

 

[MrTris]

ARP header studs, Mishimoto trans cooler and Atomic Fabs poly mounts

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Is this an esky? Is that the generic mishi cooler in.. Looks like 20" ? Just drain the Trans fluid, plumb that bad boy in and refill? How's it shift, afterwards? Any notable differences?

What does that poly mount do?
I get the point of studs - I did them on pretty much everything on my last build, but, do these have an issue with headers sealing, that the studs are kind of a preventative measure?

Don’t sweat the small stuff.

And it's all small stuff!

 

[Doubeleive]

Is this an esky? Is that the generic mishi cooler in.. Looks like 20" ? Just drain the Trans fluid, plumb that bad boy in and refill? How's it shift, afterwards? Any notable differences?

What does that poly mount do?
I get the point of studs - I did them on pretty much everything on my last build, but, do these have an issue with headers sealing, that the studs are kind of a preventative measure?


And it's all small stuff!

you don't need to drain the fluid, it's all in the transmission except for a few oz when the vehicle is off, if everything is done right it should drop overall transmission temps 15-20deg
**also it will make ZERO difference in how it shifts, if yours is not shifting correctly then you need to take it to a shop.

 

[MrTris]

you don't need to drain the fluid, it's all in the transmission except for a few oz when the vehicle is off, if everything is done right it should drop overall transmission temps 15-20deg
**also it will make ZERO difference in how it shifts, if yours is not shifting correctly then you need to take it to a shop.

No way! Does fluid have to be added to compensate for the extra line and cooler? Or does it matter?

It's shifting fine, I just wanted to know if the drop in temps made the shifts firmer or something.

 

[Doubeleive]

No way! Does fluid have to be added to compensate for the extra line and cooler? Or does it matter?

It's shifting fine, I just wanted to know if the drop in temps made the shifts firmer or something.

when doing this you should expect to loose less than or maybe 1 pint of fluid max, the fluid is not pressurized when the engine is off, it all goes back in the transmission when the pump is not running, except for whatever fluid is just sitting in the lines.
no change in shifts or anything it just helps keep the fluid cooler and less likely to get burnt.
mine would run 220 easy with just the way I drive (I do not drive like a normal person), after adding a cooler and bypassing the thermostat and adding a B&M deep pan it's rare to see anything over 180, normal driving it gets to around 140-145, sometimes 160 or a little more depends on how hard I push it
the goal is to keep the fluid a little cooler, therefore hopefully getting more miles out of the transmission.
so for people that tow or maybe kinda drive like I do or for whatever reason see higher transmission temps then this helps

I personally had to do it. otherwise I would have burnt fluid all the time, which breaks down the fluid and then it does not protect the transmission like it should.
hot burnt fluid cooks the inside of the transmission the seals and clutches, valves, etc

 

[Sparksalot]

when doing this you should expect to loose less than or maybe 1 pint of fluid max, the fluid is not pressurized when the engine is off, it all goes back in the transmission when the pump is not running, except for whatever fluid is just sitting in the lines.
no change in shifts or anything it just helps keep the fluid cooler and less likely to get burnt.
mine would run 220 easy with just the way I drive (I do not drive like a normal person), after adding a cooler and bypassing the thermostat and adding a B&M deep pan it's rare to see anything over 180, normal driving it gets to around 140-145, sometimes 160 or a little more depends on how hard I push it
the goal is to keep the fluid a little cooler, therefore hopefully getting more miles out of the transmission.
so for people that tow or maybe kinda drive like I do or for whatever reason see higher transmission temps then this helps

I personally had to do it. otherwise I would have burnt fluid all the time, which breaks down the fluid and then it does not protect the transmission like it should.
hot burnt fluid cooks the inside of the transmission the seals and clutches, valves, etc

I added less than a pint when I installed the trucool.

 

[k_arnold72]

Y'all gonna have to pray for me. I'm highly allergic to shiny things. I couldn't even tolerate the bare aluminum look of the oem wheels. Send help


Side note; two of the wheels that came on the truck look like replicas. Signs that it was probably in more serious of a wreck than the dealership let on. It's there any recourse even though it was bought two years ago?

 

[Tonyv__]

Y'all gonna have to pray for me. I'm highly allergic to shiny things. I couldn't even tolerate the bare aluminum look of the oem wheels. Send help


Side note; two of the wheels that came on the truck look like replicas. Signs that it was probably in more serious of a wreck than the dealership let on. It's there any recourse even though it was bought two years ago?

That all depends on who you bought it from. Did you buy it from a place that buys wrecked cars at auction and fixes them to be sold? Or did you buy it from a dealership that knows nothing more about the past than what carfax can tell you?

Option 1 I would think they only need to pass your states safety standards to make the vehicle road worthy again. They’re not obligated to inform you on the extent of the damage.

Option 2 probably holds no liability at all and you probably signed a bunch of mumbo jumbo that says their not responsible and you’re willingly buying the used vehicle.

 

[k_arnold72]

It's a known dealership, part of a chain i believe. They provided the carfax, which mentioned the accident, but they said it was minor. I asked for pics of the damage and they said they didn't have them.

But a while ago when I changed my louvers, I noticed some cracks behind the grill and now the two front wheels that are replicas. So evidence that it was more than a fender bender.

That all depends on who you bought it from. Did you buy it from a place that buys wrecked cars at auction and fixes them to be sold? Or did you buy it from a dealership that knows nothing more about the past than what carfax can tell you?

Option 1 I would think they only need to pass your states safety standards to make the vehicle road worthy again. They’re not obligated to inform you on the extent of the damage.

Option 2 probably holds no liability at all and you probably signed a bunch of mumbo jumbo that says their not responsible and you’re willingly buying the used vehicle.

 

[Doubeleive]

It's a known dealership, part of a chain i believe. They provided the carfax, which mentioned the accident, but they said it was minor. I asked for pics of the damage and they said they didn't have them.

But a while ago when I changed my louvers, I noticed some cracks behind the grill and now the two front wheels that are replicas. So evidence that it was more than a fender bender.

not sure why you would think the dealer would have photo's of a minor accident, dealers do not do bodyshop work, if there were going to be photos anywhere it would be on carfax IF they were uploaded by whoever.
as for the broken plastic on the front support, either the customer or the bodyshop choose to let it go or cut corners on the repair.
2 years down the road you have no recourse nor proof.
if it is straight I wouldn't even worry about it. Otherwise you can buy that support piece and replace it, that may or may not involve having to evacuate the hvac system, I haven't looked that close at it before, but if it just unbolts you can replace it pretty easily.
If it is part of the entire radiator support then you have a bit more work ahead.
***if you bought a used car with a reported accident and you were concerned about it, the time to have anything done about it would have been before purchase with paid out of pocket inspection by a independent service, before you signed any paperwork. Once you signed off on it they are off the hook, especially if it was disclosed previous to sale..

 

[Tonyv__]

It's a known dealership, part of a chain i believe. They provided the carfax, which mentioned the accident, but they said it was minor. I asked for pics of the damage and they said they didn't have them.

But a while ago when I changed my louvers, I noticed some cracks behind the grill and now the two front wheels that are replicas. So evidence that it was more than a fender bender.

My carfax shows an accident but zero details, not even where the repairs were done.

But when I bought the Yukon, I know I signed a ton of AS-IS documents. It was not certified pre owned.

 

[k_arnold72]

It's nothing that's critical to operation or structural, so I wouldn't go so far as to replace it. Most I'll do is utilize my plastic welder to make it pretty again. But you can't see these with the grill on.

not sure why you would think the dealer would have photo's of a minor accident, dealers do not do bodyshop work, if there were going to be photos anywhere it would be on carfax IF they were uploaded by whoever.
as for the broken plastic on the front support, either the customer or the bodyshop choose to let it go or cut corners on the repair.
2 years down the road you have no recourse nor proof.
if it is straight I wouldn't even worry about it. Otherwise you can buy that support piece and replace it, that may or may not involve having to evacuate the hvac system, I haven't looked that close at it before, but if it just unbolts you can replace it pretty easily.
If it is part of the entire radiator support then you have a bit more work ahead.
***if you bought a used car with a reported accident and you were concerned about it, the time to have anything done about it would have been before purchase with paid out of pocket inspection by a independent service, before you signed any paperwork. Once you signed off on it they are off the hook, especially if it was disclosed previous to sale..

 

[Doubeleive]

My carfax shows an accident but zero details, not even where the repairs were done.

But when I bought the Yukon, I know I signed a ton of AS-IS documents. It was not certified pre owned.

I have never bought a NEW car, all of them have been used, as such if I am buying off of a lot I inspect the hell out it, underneath with a flashlight and the whole bit I check everything, every button, gizmo, lights, windows the whole bit because I know that my only chance to get it corrected is before I sign and if they want the sale. If I find something afterwards that's on me. with one exception when I bought the Silverado the tpms showed the tire pressures (even had photo's) but 2 weeks down the road, all of a sudden it shows service tpms, they wouldn't program so I took it to a shop to get new ones and low and behold it had no sensors..... which was totally bizarre, the dealer agreed but caved and wrote me a check for the new sensors since there were photos showing the tpms pressure previous to sale.

 

[Doubeleive]

It's nothing that's critical to operation or structural, so I wouldn't go so far as to replace it. Most I'll do is utilize my plastic welder to make it pretty again. But you can't see these with the grill on.

ya lot of plastic on these, it shouldn't affect anything being that far in and bolted up all over.

 

[Tonyv__]

I have never bought a NEW car, all of them have been used, as such if I am buying off of a lot I inspect the hell out it, underneath with a flashlight and the whole bit I check everything, every button, gizmo, lights, windows the whole bit because I know that my only chance to get it corrected is before I sign and if they want the sale. If I find something afterwards that's on me. with one exception when I bought the Silverado the tpms showed the tire pressures (even had photo's) but 2 weeks down the road, all of a sudden it shows service tpms, they wouldn't program so I took it to a shop to get new ones and low and behold it had no sensors..... which was totally bizarre, the dealer agreed but caved and wrote me a check for the new sensors since there were photos showing the tpms pressure previous to sale.

Same and I don’t see myself buying a new car in the near future either.

The Yukon didn’t have many surprises. The accident snuck up on my last year. I posted in the what you up to thread about it. The repair started to bubble behind the paint. I mean it held together for 5+ years. I found out that the rear quarter was replaced. Got it painted a couple months ago and we’ll see how long it last this go around

 

[Doubeleive]

I think what happened in my case was the previous owner changed the wheels before it was traded in or the dealer changed the wheels and the tpms was ghost until it wasn't

 

[CrashTestDummy]

Wifey brought the PPV home with a dead water pump last Monday. Had to swap that out, which was really a non-issue. Took longer to get the belt off than the WP! I am liking that metal gasket!! Also did the belt and upper hose, since none of my notes indicate the belt has been changed yet. I think I did, but don't have note of it.

Refilling the cooling system was a PITA, even with the vacuum refiller kit. Couldn't get the coolant reservoir adapters to seal. I was starting to think we had a cracked reservoir or radiator, but groping those indicated they were both dry. The refiller kit had a conical adapter, and that seemed to work fine.

Also changed the oil/filter. It looks like oil temp is part of the calculus of the oil life monitor, as we'd changed it just a hair over 1000 miles ago. Going out for a shake down cruise in a minute. The pups are demanding a 'bye bye in the truck truck' trip!!