What did you do to your 2015-2020 K2XX Tahoe/Yukon Today?

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Jeff_

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Replaced factory reverse lights with LEDs. Looks wayyy better and puts out much more light at night.
Backup camera is still pretty noisy and grainy, was hoping it would noticeably improve it, but it is what it is.

Additionally, I changed the cabin air filter. Nice and easy to do.
 

STORMIN08

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sorry to hear about your issues with the morimotos... hopefully just a fluke issues. EVERYTHING can have a failure, dont give up hope.

Jeff...i also swapped to an LED reverse light, with a projected gree at he end...brightness in the night is far superior, but i also think GM is failing ion the camera department...or at least screen resolution for sure.
 

tsuintx

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So..., been thinking about this bulb situation and hopefully I'm not an idiot. Well..., I am, but still. Do you the anti-flicker modules with these things? I didn't order them, so could that be the cause here?
 

tsuintx

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these are designed to be plug and play...i have no addition items.

That was also my assumption, but thought I'd check since I know at least you and maybe also others have just recently done the upgrade. Will take another look at them on Saturday.
 

CMoore711

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Checked passenger side light and everything was fine. Still a no go.

Connector was tight on. Even tried turning the connector around and light didn’t come on at all.

Lights come on just fine, but right when you step on the brake to shift out of park, both flicker and passenger side goes out and doesn’t come on until you turn lights off and back on. But, when you put it in gear, passenger side goes out again. Put everything back and decided to continue the fight another day. Need to also swap them side to side to see if that makes a difference.

Might need to also contact Retrofitsource to see what they say. Might have as well spent 50-60 bucks on a cheapo set off Amazon if the stuff doesn’t work.

So the lights come on and stays on until you shift from park to drive? Then once you shift from park to drive the passenger side flickers and turns off? Even if you manually turn the headlights off then back on?

Morimoto makes it a point to mention how their LED driver is DRL friendly and can still operate as DRL at lower/pulse voltage and “regular” full power low beam voltage with no hiccups.

Hmm...? The fact that a few of us have installed these in the low and high beams with no additional parts and operating as expected leads me to think maybe you got a fluke bad set of bulbs?

By turning them back on are you just switching the headlight switch back to “auto” headlights? I would be curious to see how the bulbs would function if you switched the headlight switch to the far right.

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My understanding is this is the manual “headlights on” switch. Regardless if vehicle is turned on/off in park or drive; Headlights on. Turn it to that and see if they still stay on when you go from park to drive?

Switching the LEDs from passenger to driver isn’t a bad idea. If the problem follows the bulb for sure it’s the bulb. If the problem stays on the passenger side there’s a bigger issue. But if you’ve got your stock OEM bulbs back in and operating as normal then it’s for sure the bulb.
 
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tsuintx

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So the lights come on and stays on until you shift from park to drive? Then once you shift from park to drive the passenger side flickers and turns off? Even if you manually turn the headlights off then back on?

Morimoto makes it a point to mention how their LED driver is DRL friendly and can still operate as DRL at lower/pulse voltage and “regular” full power low beam voltage with no hiccups.

Hmm...? The fact that a few of us have installed these in the low and high beams with no additional parts and operating as expected leads me to think maybe you got a fluke bad set of bulbs?

By turning them back on are you just switching the headlight switch back to “auto” headlights? I would be curious to see how the bulbs would function if you switched the headlight switch to the far right.

View attachment 269034

My understanding is this is the manual “headlights on” switch. Regardless if vehicle is turned on/off in park or drive; Headlights on. Turn it to that and see if they still stay on when you go from park to drive?

Switching the LEDs from passenger to driver isn’t a bad idea. If the problem follows the bulb for sure it’s the bulb. If the problem stays on the passenger side there’s a bigger issue. But if you’ve got your stock OEM bulbs back in and operating as normal then it’s for sure the bulb.

The issue is the same regardless if I have the switch on auto or just normal on. Next thing I’m going to do is swapping sides, just to make sure. If the problem moves over, I’d like to think I’ve found the problem.

Luckily my wife doesn’t have any need to drive after dark, so the LEDs will stay there now until this weekend when I have time to tinker with them again.
 

Denali Brad

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I got the Morimoto 2 stroke 3.0 in 9005 for my high beams and have had zero issues. Plug and play.

You must have purchased the last pair....I tried yesterday and they are saying out of stock...late February delivery.

How was the install? Everything fit behind the caps?
 

STORMIN08

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all components will / do fit behind the caps. it is a snug fit inserting them, but they go with ease and the caps fit just fine.
 

tsuintx

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Swapped bulbs around and so far so good. First they flickered a bit and the one I moved from passenger side went out. Did some driving around with them on and they were still on when I came back.

Will go for a drive when it gets dark and see what happens. Not holding my breath...
 

tsuintx

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Went for a drive last night and within the first 1/4 mile the driver side went out. So, it kind of looks to me like there’s something wrong with it. Or would the anti-flicker modules prevent that from happening?

So freaking annoying... :banghead:
 

Doubeleive

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Went for a drive last night and within the first 1/4 mile the driver side went out. So, it kind of looks to me like there’s something wrong with it. Or would the anti-flicker modules prevent that from happening?

So freaking annoying... :banghead:
probably not, the anti-flicker is just a little capacitor
 

STORMIN08

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i would warranty the bulb, remember...everything has QC and failure issues. Every maker around has a small percentage of failures.

good luck with the warranty, the wait hassle will be worth the nigh vision provided.
 

tsuintx

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Did an online chat with TRS and they said they'd send me new ones after I send them pics of the current ones being destroyed or they'll sell me a new pair at 50% discount and refund that once I send them the pics.

Chose to pay the 50% since I don't want to keep on removing that stupid airbox all the time. I'll just do it all in one shot. Destroy them afterwards and send them the pics for the refund. I have slight reservations about the whole process, but oh well...

I could've also requested a return directly from the order on my account, but looks like you'd have to pay shipping. Of course shipping would've been less than what I paid now in case I don't get a refund for the 50%, but guess we'll see. I just want to be done with this. :mad:

Once I get these taken care of, I still need to order at least the fogs so I can install them while I do the tow hook conversion and add fogs.
 

Doubeleive

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Did an online chat with TRS and they said they'd send me new ones after I send them pics of the current ones being destroyed or they'll sell me a new pair at 50% discount and refund that once I send them the pics.

Chose to pay the 50% since I don't want to keep on removing that stupid airbox all the time. I'll just do it all in one shot. Destroy them afterwards and send them the pics for the refund. I have slight reservations about the whole process, but oh well...

I could've also requested a return directly from the order on my account, but looks like you'd have to pay shipping. Of course shipping would've been less than what I paid now in case I don't get a refund for the 50%, but guess we'll see. I just want to be done with this. :mad:

Once I get these taken care of, I still need to order at least the fogs so I can install them while I do the tow hook conversion and add fogs.
That is Morimoto's policy, to have you show the defective product is destroyed. it's a tax write off for them and no extra cost involved shipping it back
 

Brittanyb2214

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My 2015 LTZ. Converted the magnetic ride to Fox 2.0 coilovers, added Xineering 3/4 bypass kit to avoid any warning lights for the suspension, added a 1.5 inch spacer in the rear, KSP upper control arms, and longer end links for the rear. This Tahoe started out as stock loaded with chrome. Traded out the stock 22s for some 20s and a set 265 60 20 BFG ultra terrain tire. Also upgraded the stock air intake with a Jr air intake system (kept the stock airbox) installed Gibson dual sport exhaust, and added a custom tune. No longer your typcial grocery getter! I have a before and after picture to show all the progress.

20210204_135447.jpg
 
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tsuintx

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Got the replacement Morimotos today but only replaced the driver’s side which was the one having the flickering issue, regardless of the side it was installed in.

Was able to get it clocked in so that the LEDs are at 9 and 3 and no more flickering or turning off. Passenger side did a couple of flickers first, but that was it. Will replace that tomorrow, just in case. Then it’s off to destroying them, sending pics and getting my money back.

Took it for a ride and I think they look pretty good. The wall picture is about 30 feet away. It kind of looks like there are two dark spots, but so far they didn’t bother me. Pretty happy with the upgrade.

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STORMIN08

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pull back from your wall shot about another 20-25 ft...i played with my adjustments of the housings...actually have raised the center line from stock setting a decent amount. it really helped down road illumination and no one has flashed me as of yet.
 

STORMIN08

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BrittanyB...how is the tone of the engine with the JR tube ???

i am leaning on doing the same mod, and just curious if the engine tone is overly noticeable or tolerable at long drive times.
 
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