Warranty Recommendations for 18 Yukon XL Denali?

[Erofu Sane]

Hi, In process of purchasing higher mileage (94k) 2018 Yukon XL Denali.
Any recommendations or experience with warranties to purchase that would cover main components and electronics?

BTW, Am new here and searched - didn't see any content so started new post.

Thanks in Advance.

 

[OR VietVet]

Lots of threads about this and I don't recommend any of them but others here do.

Welcome to the forum from Oregon.

 

[Tahoe14]

Go down about seven posts from yours and you will see one "Warranties Available" and if you scroll through the General Discussion section a few pages you should see a few more.

 

[Rygrego]

Hi, In process of purchasing higher mileage (94k) 2018 Yukon XL Denali.
Any recommendations or experience with warranties to purchase that would cover main components and electronics?

BTW, Am new here and searched - didn't see any content so started new post.

Thanks in Advance.

The only warranties worth buying are from the vehicle manufacturer. The rest are a rip off. Car Shield and the rest of the third party sellers are crap and will rob you blind.

 

[swathdiver]

Hi, In process of purchasing higher mileage (94k) 2018 Yukon XL Denali.
Any recommendations or experience with warranties to purchase that would cover main components and electronics?

BTW, Am new here and searched - didn't see any content so started new post.

Thanks in Advance.

Run the Severe Service Schedule and self-insure.

 

[OR VietVet]

Run the Severe Service Schedule and self-insure.

Agree. Percentages are always in the warranty company's favor. That is what insurance is all about. I have never had an extended warranty policy but when in my shops I have dealt with them and hate them for what they say they cover and then how they fight to not cover the same things.

IMO, you should ALWAYS have savings that is added to every week or month and never skip saving and that money is for maintenance that you can PLAN AHEAD about and for repairs if needed.

If you just have to buy one of these vile things, get the GM warranty and no aftermarket coverage. They have been known to close business, disavow any contracts and move to another state under a new name.

 

[91RS]

The only warranties worth buying are from the vehicle manufacturer. The rest are a rip off. Car Shield and the rest of the third party sellers are crap and will rob you blind.

Incorrect. There are plenty of aftermarket warranty policies that are as good or better. Fidelity is the best one I've dealt with. Get a Fidelity Platinum and you'll be set.

 

[91RS]

Run the Severe Service Schedule and self-insure.

That's a big risk on these K2 trucks and even more so on the T1. I used to agree but everything is so expensive, all tied together, and has to be programmed on these K2 and newer vehicles. There is so much stuff that you just can't not fix if it breaks like people are used to doing on older vehicles and there are more and more parts every day that you can't buy used because they have to be programmed. If you're buying a GMT-900 or older, skip the warranty and self-insure but anything new than that buy the platinum policy.

 

[swathdiver]

That's a big risk on these K2 trucks and even more so on the T1. I used to agree but everything is so expensive, all tied together, and has to be programmed on these K2 and newer vehicles. There is so much stuff that you just can't not fix if it breaks like people are used to doing on older vehicles and there are more and more parts every day that you can't buy used because they have to be programmed. If you're buying a GMT-900 or older, skip the warranty and self-insure but anything new than that buy the platinum policy.

I've been writing several responses and keep defeating my own argument! On the one hand, the GM MDI2 and GDS2 software costs about the same as a Tech-2 so diagnostics and programming is not an insurmountable task. On the other hand, those K2s with their thermostatically controlled transmissions are lucky to see 100K miles, well some noticeable percentage of them anyway, and so a warranty may not be such a bad idea for peace of mind for those not mechanically inclined and or without savings.

 

[OR VietVet]

Let's say you buy new rig and you have a bumper to bumper 3 year 36k miles warranty and a 5 year and 60k miles powertrain warranty. A no deductible warranty at that. Extended warranties have deductibles, unless I don't know about some that don't have deductible on some coverages. There is no need for an extended warranty over that whole time.

During that time you start a savings plan for maintenance and in the future repairs. If you spend money as fast as you make it and don't save, well that is on you. If you buy a new rig and have nothing left over, after monthly payments and insurance, that is on you again and IMO, you should not be buying a new rig. You are free to make that choice.

If you can put back $500 a month for the 3 years, that is $18k to do maintenance with and still have a nest egg for repairs after the first 3 year 36k bumper to bumper warranty and then two more years to continue to save an additional $12k to have for repairs toward the powertrain repairs, if needed after that.

If you just have to have an extended warranty, by all means buy it then.

But, IMO, what happens is that the customize bug hits and you wipe out the savings because you just gotta have it, NOW!

I know that in 5 years and after taking care of the rig I bought the way it should be taken care of, I can make $30k stretch for maintenance and repairs and even if you lower your monthly saving from $500 a month to $250 a month, a smart savvy person can make it happen.

$500 a month is $17 a day to save and half that for the $250 a month after the 5 years.

Instead, you buy an extended warranty for, I am gonna guess because I don't like the things and don't follow their costs, $3000 to $4000 and if you cannot buy it outright, you pay more making payments. Then the deductibles along with all of that and having to wait on call backs and adjusters.

Buy a new vehicle, take care of it the right way on the severe duty schedule and have enough patience to save the $17 a day or more. Hell, over 5 years if you save $20 a day that is $36,500.

Even at the end of 5 years, and $20 a day savings, you have almost half of what you paid for the rig if you paid $80k, which I will never ever do.

 

[Erofu Sane]

Appreciate the responses from everyone. Initial warranty quotes range from $3-$6k. We have that but leaning on putting that money to better use until/if needed for repairs like our other vehicles. Consumer reports likes the 18 Yukon XL for reliability and customer satisfaction so might be worth the gamble.

 

[OR VietVet]

IMO, the gamble is getting the extended warranty because, just like the casinos, the odds are in the favor of the extended warranty company. If you buy one, sometimes you do come out ahead, just like at the casinos. Casinos are built on losers money and so are insurance companies.

Good luck, whichever way you go but I assume no responsibility if you do not buy the extended warranty and then have what would have been a covered repair problem that costs you more than the warranty. Just sayin'!

 

[Rdr854]

Let's say you buy new rig and you have a bumper to bumper 3 year 36k miles warranty and a 5 year and 60k miles powertrain warranty. A no deductible warranty at that. Extended warranties have deductibles, unless I don't know about some that don't have deductible on some coverages. There is no need for an extended warranty over that whole time.

During that time you start a savings plan for maintenance and in the future repairs. If you spend money as fast as you make it and don't save, well that is on you. If you buy a new rig and have nothing left over, after monthly payments and insurance, that is on you again and IMO, you should not be buying a new rig. You are free to make that choice.

If you can put back $500 a month for the 3 years, that is $18k to do maintenance with and still have a nest egg for repairs after the first 3 year 36k bumper to bumper warranty and then two more years to continue to save an additional $12k to have for repairs toward the powertrain repairs, if needed after that.

If you just have to have an extended warranty, by all means buy it then.

But, IMO, what happens is that the customize bug hits and you wipe out the savings because you just gotta have it, NOW!

I know that in 5 years and after taking care of the rig I bought the way it should be taken care of, I can make $30k stretch for maintenance and repairs and even if you lower your monthly saving from $500 a month to $250 a month, a smart savvy person can make it happen.

$500 a month is $17 a day to save and half that for the $250 a month after the 5 years.

Instead, you buy an extended warranty for, I am gonna guess because I don't like the things and don't follow their costs, $3000 to $4000 and if you cannot buy it outright, you pay more making payments. Then the deductibles along with all of that and having to wait on call backs and adjusters.

Buy a new vehicle, take care of it the right way on the severe duty schedule and have enough patience to save the $17 a day or more. Hell, over 5 years if you save $20 a day that is $36,500.

Even at the end of 5 years, and $20 a day savings, you have almost half of what you paid for the rig if you paid $80k, which I will never ever do.

Not all vehicle service contracts have deductibles. The ones that I purchase are OEM sponsored with 0 deductible And will take me out to 8 or 10 years (depending on OEM) and 100K miles.

 

[swathdiver]

If you can put back $500 a month for the 3 years, that is $18k to do maintenance with and still have a nest egg for repairs after the first 3 year 36k bumper to bumper warranty and then two more years to continue to save an additional $12k to have for repairs toward the powertrain repairs, if needed after that.

Buy a new vehicle, take care of it the right way on the severe duty schedule and have enough patience to save the $17 a day or more. Hell, over 5 years if you save $20 a day that is $36,500.

Even at the end of 5 years, and $20 a day savings, you have almost half of what you paid for the rig if you paid $80k, which I will never ever do.

I have some real world numbers that can be shared from my handy dandy excel spread sheets. Since 2017, we have spent a daily average of $2.13 for repairs and $3.18 for maintenance. This spending began when my rig was much older than the OPs, it was 8 years and 113K when we got it. We've also spent an average of $1.55 per day for accessories. These include things like Dash Cams, floor mats, window tint, alarm systems, etc. We spend about 400 hours per year inside the truck and we want her to be reliable and comfortable.

 

[OR VietVet]

IMO, I think the younger you are the more you tend to buy an extended warranty. That is not meant as a slight but as an observation. Patience seems to wane the younger you get and an all encompassing, is sold that way, warranty puts a checkmark in a box.

But I like my freedoms and theirs too, so buy 'em if you want 'em. Do not pay attention to my thought process for why not to buy them.

 

[91RS]

If you can put back $500 a month for the 3 years, that is $18k to do maintenance with and still have a nest egg for repairs after the first 3 year 36k bumper to bumper warranty and then two more years to continue to save an additional $12k to have for repairs toward the powertrain repairs

To me, this post doesn’t help your point. No extended warranty costs $500 a month.

 

[91RS]

I have some real world numbers that can be shared from my handy dandy excel spread sheets. Since 2017, we have spent a daily average of $2.13 for repairs and $3.18 for maintenance. This spending began when my rig was much older than the OPs, it was 8 years and 113K when we got it. We've also spent an average of $1.55 per day for accessories. These include things like Dash Cams, floor mats, window tint, alarm systems, etc. We spend about 400 hours per year inside the truck and we want her to be reliable and comfortable.

But you have a 2009 and 2012. There is much less to go wrong on a GMT-900, all the parts are cheaper, and you have the option of used parts for almost everything on the truck. I wouldn't recommend an extended warranty on a GMT-900. Each piece of just the radio on a 2018 is $1000 and the only part that doesn't have to be programmed is the display and rear entertainment display(s).

 

[swathdiver]

But you have a 2009 and 2012. There is much less to go wrong on a GMT-900, all the parts are cheaper, and you have the option of used parts for almost everything on the truck. I wouldn't recommend an extended warranty on a GMT-900. Each piece of just the radio on a 2018 is $1000 and the only part that doesn't have to be programmed is the display and rear entertainment display(s).

Now, but what about when in 2012 or 2015 when the trucks were three years old like the OPs? Parts were less and so were most people's salaries then and they didn't have the benefit of inexpensive self-diagnostics like we do today. How reliable are the radios on K2s? My Navigation unit is still humming along.

 

[OR VietVet]

To me, this post doesn’t help your point. No extended warranty costs $500 a month.

The whole story tells the point I was trying to make. I said the money is set back for a pot to pay for ongoing maintenance that is not covered, using the severe duty schedule, and repairs for after the warranty period, if you keep the vehicle thru all factory warranties and beyond. It doesn't have to be $500. It can be whatever you want it to be with the understanding that if the money is save back, you have the nest egg for anything major. I talked about playing the %'s. I thought I was pretty clear on that. That is an EXAMPLE not a line by line Bible of what to do. The time to start saving the money is before the end of the warranty period and not after. The total I gave at the end of that period would be depleted by however the money was spent on maintenance and custom work like wheels and different tires and whatever else. Not a perfect example but shows what can be accomplished by just planning ahead to cover vehicle expenses over a period of time. The savings I talk about would give a better peace of mind, IMO, than an extended warranty that is a PITA, again IMO, that is trying to keep their money instead of paying you.

 

[Bob2C]

I can’t remember for sure but I think I read it in the contract of the GMEPP service contract where it states basic maintenance needs to be performed at the dealer. If I’m wrong someone correct me. That was a nope for me since I do all my own maintenance

just looked it up. Not specific to dealer. Just need to keep receipts.


THINGS YOU MUST DO THROUGHOUT THE TERM OF YOUR CONTRACT
Properly Maintain Your Vehicle and KEEP THE RECEIPTS – Keep copies of all receipts (oil changes, lubrication, etc.), as proof of maintenance may be required when You file a claim. SEE SECTION: "PROVISIONS OF THIS VEHICLE SERVICE CONTRACT" FOR SPECIFIC MAINTENANCE REQUIREMENTS. OBTAIN APPROVAL PRIOR TO HAVING WORK PERFORMED THAT MAY BE COVERED BY THIS CONTRACT. If You experience a Breakdown, call Your Selling or nearest Chevrolet, Buick, GMC, Cadillac Dealer or the Administrator.
Here is a sample contract from knapp

https://www.knappvehicleservicecontracts.com/contract/Sample_GM_service_contract.pdf