Various Electrical Issues '07 Taho LTZ

[COAB82]

Hey y'all, first time poster, 3.5 year Tahoe owner. 2007 Tahoe LTZ 5.3 Flex Fuel. This is probably going to be a long post, so I appreciate any help or insight anyone may have on the issues I'm experiencing.

Due to tight finances, my Tahoe more or less sat since the first part of December 2019 (about 7 months). I couldn't afford to fix an issue that prevented an emissions pass, nor could I afford the registration. I started it up a few times, but it also died on me a few times. Everything is all charged up now, and it seems to be running smoothly. I did have to work out a clock issue (dead battery caused), as it wasn't displaying the time. Working through some protocols to get the O2 and evap canisters ready for an emissions inspection, but I digress. I'm trying to figure out some electrical issues that started a couple years ago.

1. The first sign of trouble was the driver's window switch seemed to work intermittently. Eventually it went out completely (luckily the window was up.) One day it just wouldn't go down.

2. Next thing I noticed that all of the controls (all windows, locks, mirrors, and seat memory settings) on the driver's side went out. Nothing worked. Still doesn't. I removed the panel, detached all wiring harnesses, removed the circuit board, and ensured that all contact points between the rubber seal and the circuitry was clean. I've inspected the wiring harnesses under that panel as well as up to the fuse panel just under the dash, and everything seems to be in good shape. All fuses look intact and in place. My thought is that I have a bad control panel, and it just needs to be replaced. Am I on the right track with this?

3. This vehicle has drop down steps. When all the driver's door electronics went out, the step on that side started acting funny. Seems like it doesn't know when the door is open or closed. It would stay down even after closing the driver's side doors, and only go up when the vehicle reached 20 mph. Anytime we came to a stop, it would drop down. As of 2 days ago, it moved to the up position, and now it is stuck there. Won't drop down ever.

4. The door will only unlock with a key. No buttons work to lock it, from either the driver's door or the passenger's, and the remote key fob doesn't lock it either. Is this related to the master switch panel on the driver's door? Or am I looking at replacing the door latch assembly to resolve this issue?

5. The key fob WILL remote start the vehicle, lock/unlock all doors except the driver's door, open/close the rear lift gate, open/close lift gate glass.

6. Driver's side rear passenger door has been spotty on whether or not it locks/unlocks with the key fob remote or passenger side controls. I'm figuring the door latch assembly needs replacing there, too, but I am also concerned it may be related to the issues I'm having up front.

7. The driver's seat position controls have gone out. Won't operate in any direction.

8. The foot pedal position is no longer operational. Pedals won't go forward or back.

That's about all I can think of. There may be more things that I have missed, but these are the things I have noticed. It seems like many of them could be related, but I am just not sure. I'd prefer to not have to start buying and replacing parts to see what works, so if anyone has insights that can steer me in the right direction, I'd sure appreciate it!

 

[OR VietVet]

Welcome to the forum from Oregon.

There are many threads here that discuss bad grounds causing numerous electrical problems.

Check this link out: https://www.fixmyoldride.com/Chevro...e7e5cd24ed24635&at_ab=per-2&at_pos=3&at_tot=4


We recommend that you put all your rig(s) info in your signature so we all don’t have to guess at year, make, model, engine size, trans, rear axle locker…….etc. While you may have posted pertinent info in your first post, you may forget to do it again and the info is needed by us anyway. Makes it way easier on all members that attempt to help, to have that info right up front. It is also recommended that you take a pic of your RPO codes, on the inside cover of the glove box, and post that image in your signature. All this info will greatly help those that will try to help with a problem.


If there is any other info, like upgrades, mods or recent mechanical/maintenance work done, that would be helpful in any post as well. Too many times a question is asked by the poster and after about 10 responses we find out that the poster has done recent work to attempt to fix the problem or work that was done that SEEMS not related to the problem.

 

[avalonandl]

Clean all battery terminals again. You have a drivers door switch gone bad also. Recheck fuses

 

[COAB82]

Clean all battery terminals again. You have a drivers door switch gone bad also. Recheck fuses

I've done some research on the door switch, but I am unclear if it is a separate part, or part of the door latch assembly. Insight?

 

[COAB82]

Welcome to the forum from Oregon.

There are many threads here that discuss bad grounds causing numerous electrical problems.

Check this link out: https://www.fixmyoldride.com/Chevro...e7e5cd24ed24635&at_ab=per-2&at_pos=3&at_tot=4


We recommend that you put all your rig(s) info in your signature so we all don’t have to guess at year, make, model, engine size, trans, rear axle locker…….etc. While you may have posted pertinent info in your first post, you may forget to do it again and the info is needed by us anyway. Makes it way easier on all members that attempt to help, to have that info right up front. It is also recommended that you take a pic of your RPO codes, on the inside cover of the glove box, and post that image in your signature. All this info will greatly help those that will try to help with a problem.


If there is any other info, like upgrades, mods or recent mechanical/maintenance work done, that would be helpful in any post as well. Too many times a question is asked by the poster and after about 10 responses we find out that the poster has done recent work to attempt to fix the problem or work that was done that SEEMS not related to the problem.

Thanks! I will do that. I haven't done any recent work, other than charging the battery, and replacing the purge valve for the evap canister to clear up an evap system code (no check engine light since charging the battery and driving 75+ miles). Previously I replaced a related evap part under the hood (electric issues started a long time before that), and I replaced the gas cap a while back. I think the evap system should be all cleared up.

I guess I should also mention that the air ride compressor stopped working a while back, before the electrical issues arose.