Tahoe #8 Spark Plug access

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Roger08LTZ

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I've found this car quite easy to work on compared to others I've worked on in the past, but the #8 plug is a challange. Makes me wounder how many people over the years have paid for 8 plugs and actually got only 7. Once I pulled the inner liner it wasen't that bad actually. I used a long 3/8" Extension with a universal joint. Perhaps the pictures attached might help someone?
 

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TollKeeper

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the GM FST trucks are not to bad. Usually #7 is the worst.

Go over to GM's MST Mid Size (Envoy, Trailblazer) with a v8.. I think the engineers were sodomites. 1, 2, 4, and 7 are miserable! #8 can be gotten the same way as you have above, albeit a bit tighter.
 
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Roger08LTZ

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I think the engineers were sodomites.
an Engineer is someone will walk over a thousand virgins just to screw a mechanic.

My 06 5.7 Hemi Jeep Grand Cherokee while the plugs are easy just about everything is a nightmare to work on! They run awesome until they don't. The Tahoe has a luxurious engine bay by comparison.
 

89Suburban

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I've found this car quite easy to work on compared to others I've worked on in the past, but the #8 plug is a challange. Makes me wounder how many people over the years have paid for 8 plugs and actually got only 7. Once I pulled the inner liner it wasen't that bad actually. I used a long 3/8" Extension with a universal joint. Perhaps the pictures attached might help someone?

Put the spark plug socket on the spark plug and then use a shallow socket and ratchet to slide over the hex end of the spark plug socket and get it from the top of the motor
 

jz57

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No need removing wheel fender, just remove the tire, use spark plug socket, plus regular 3/8 ratchet, and slightly bend A/C accumulator heat shield, the job can be done.
 

donjetman

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I have a manifold bridge at #8 that I have to deal with before I can do the spark plug :banghead:
 

OR VietVet

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@Rocket Man came up with a great way to remove it. Use a long enough deep 5/8" socket, not a spark plug socket, and a 3/8" ratchet and it works. If you have a deep 5/8" 1/4'' drive socket that you can use with a 1/4" ratchet and break loose, that works too. I have a 1/4" breaker bar to break it loose. Plus, I am surprised no one has said that the 5/8" spark plug socket has a 6 point head on it. Use an open end wrench on that to break loose the plug and unthread the plug. It can be done pretty easy if you get creative.
 

George B

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@Rocket Man came up with a great way to remove it. Use a long enough deep 5/8" socket, not a spark plug socket, and a 3/8" ratchet and it works. If you have a deep 5/8" 1/4'' drive socket that you can use with a 1/4" ratchet and break loose, that works too. I have a 1/4" breaker bar to break it loose. Plus, I am surprised no one has said that the 5/8" spark plug socket has a 6 point head on it. Use an open end wrench on that to break loose the plug and unthread the plug. It can be done pretty easy if you get creative.
Rocket man uses the spark plug socket with the six point hex and then a regular 3/4 socket on that hex.
 

OR VietVet

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Rocket man uses the spark plug socket with the six point hex and then a regular 3/4 socket on that hex.
That's not the way it was described to me. If you use a 5/8" spark plug socket and then add a 3/4" socket on that, I am assuming a shallow socket, and then a ratchet on that, is that not too deep/long at that point? What am I missing?
 

B-train

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Nice post. They are definitely a PITA. After being both a mechanic and then working in engineering I can tell you that the designers who have a computer screen with perfect fitting parts never think twice about what the REAL finished product requires. Had MANY meetings about these sort of things. However, profit usually wins out over practicality in the long run. Luckily you'll only have to visit that fella 2 times in the vehicles life on average.
 

George B

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That's not the way it was described to me. If you use a 5/8" spark plug socket and then add a 3/4" socket on that, I am assuming a shallow socket, and then a ratchet on that, is that not too deep/long at that point? What am I missing?

I found the post where he describes it.
?hash=7019c233be59e9e3ed24e04aeba970e3.jpg

If you put a regular depth socket on the plug socket instead of a wrench it’s the perfect length for a ratchet.
 
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Roger08LTZ

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I found the post where he describes it.
View attachment 380618
This likely would have helped me had I known this trick, but I still think pulling down the liner is easier. One factor my plugs seem like they were installed by the local tire shop, I needed to use a pipe to get the plugs broken free. They also resisted all of the way out. I was very concerned the threads were damaged, but the new plugs went in fine and I was able to tighten them all to the 11 Ft Lbs spec. So I think I'm good.
 

OR VietVet

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This likely would have helped me had I known this trick, but I still think pulling down the liner is easier. One factor my plugs seem like they were installed by the local tire shop, I needed to use a pipe to get the plugs broken free. They also resisted all of the way out. I was very concerned the threads were damaged, but the new plugs went in fine and I was able to tighten them all to the 11 Ft Lbs spec. So I think I'm good.
I hope you read the recent thread about using a small dab of anti-seize on the threads of the spark plug before installing in the aluminum head.
 

Doubeleive

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geez you guys must have never worked on a japanese car working on these trucks is a breeze by comparison, #8 doesn't take any longer nor is it any harder than any other plug
spark plug socket and then adapt down to a 1/4 ratchet, throw a breaker over the small ratchet, wammo done
 

Geotrash

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I have a flex head ratchet and a ton of different extension lengths and found a combo that was easy.

When I did my cam swap I pulled everything from the side, including the plugs, and it was super easy that way. Pulling the wheel well liner out takes 5 minutes plus the time to Jack up the car and pull the tire, and presto! Easy peasy #8 access.
 

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