Starting issue.

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Rownell

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Tahoe has been running great since I bought it a couple of months ago. Ran fine yesterday, but today, out of the blue, it won't start. Fuel pump fuse is fine and I am assuming the relay is good. I want to check for spark so my question is about the little heat shields around the spark plug and boot. Do they pop off with the plug wire boot? It is snug and I didn't want to rip anything up. Any other suggestions on where to start?

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HiHoeSilver

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Sit quietly with the door open. Turn the key from off to run (not start) and listen for the pump behind you. You should easily hear it prime if it's getting power.
 

Big Mama

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I don’t have your model but my heat shield didn’t pop off and the plug wires were hard to get off. Use the removal tool you can borrow from parts store. If a plug was bad it would still start. As Silver mentioned most common issue is fuel related
 
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Rownell

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Sit quietly with the door open. Turn the key from off to run (not start) and listen for the pump behind you. You should easily hear it prime if it's getting power.
I did what you recommended (should have thought of it) Most fuel pumps I have dealt with will run for a couple of seconds. What I am hearing is a couple of quick clicks and a split second of a hum. Probably going to replace the fuel filter. When I have that off will I be able to check fuel pressure? I know it might be messy. Any other thoughts or just go after the pump and filter?
 

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I did what you recommended (should have thought of it) Most fuel pumps I have dealt with will run for a couple of seconds. What I am hearing is a couple of quick clicks and a split second of a hum. Probably going to replace the fuel filter. When I have that off will I be able to check fuel pressure? I know it might be messy. Any other thoughts or just go after the pump and filter?

What year is your truck? Might not have a filter.
The best way to check pressure is a mechanical gauge. You can borrow one from the auto parts store if you don't have it. There is a standard schrader valve on the driver's side fuel rail. The shade tree test would be to prime the pump and go stick a screwdriver into the valve (watch your eyeballs).
 
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Rownell

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What year is your truck? Might not have a filter.
The best way to check pressure is a mechanical gauge. You can borrow one from the auto parts store if you don't have it. There is a standard schrader valve on the driver's side fuel rail. The shade tree test would be to prime the pump and go stick a screwdriver into the valve (watch your eyeballs).
Appreciate the advice. I have to go to work now but I will check the pressure tonight. I will let you know what I find.
Thanks again.
 
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Rownell

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OK. To everyone who has been responding. Thank You. Did a little snooping last night. My model has the Z in the VIN so it is the flex fuel model and has a exterior fuel filter. I shot some starting fluid in the air intake and she fired right up. Fuel pump. Some things I will just take to my trusted neighborhood garage that I don't want to tackle myself. What am I getting into on this? Any thoughts. On the Ram truck I had I just pulled the bed liner and cut a hole to get access to the pump. This isn't quite as simple. Ideas?
 

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OK. To everyone who has been responding. Thank You. Did a little snooping last night. My model has the Z in the VIN so it is the flex fuel model and has a exterior fuel filter. I shot some starting fluid in the air intake and she fired right up. Fuel pump. Some things I will just take to my trusted neighborhood garage that I don't want to tackle myself. What am I getting into on this? Any thoughts. On the Ram truck I had I just pulled the bed liner and cut a hole to get access to the pump. This isn't quite as simple. Ideas?

I did mine in the driveway with the rear end on ramps. Obviously the emptier the tank the better. The hardest part is getting all the line connections undone. I did break a clip for the straps and need to replace it. All in all, not too bad really.
 
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Rownell

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I did mine in the driveway with the rear end on ramps. Obviously the emptier the tank the better. The hardest part is getting all the line connections undone. I did break a clip for the straps and need to replace it. All in all, not too bad really.
Just got a phone quote from a garage I like, $1050 complete. Napa fuel pump $550 through garage (ouch). NAPA top of the line pump on their site is $350. Airtek pump with a lot of likes at Rock Auto is $84.00. Did you drop the tank first to get access to everything and did you have to disconnect the supply goose neck from the tank or is their enough play in it? I did get it started by banging on the tank a couple of times so getting it up on ramps is not a problem unless it goes out completely.
 
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Rownell

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HiHoeSilver

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Just got a phone quote from a garage I like, $1050 complete. Napa fuel pump $550 through garage (ouch). NAPA top of the line pump on their site is $350. Airtek pump with a lot of likes at Rock Auto is $84.00. Did you drop the tank first to get access to everything and did you have to disconnect the supply goose neck from the tank or is their enough play in it? I did get it started by banging on the tank a couple of times so getting it up on ramps is not a problem unless it goes out completely.

I bought the ac delco from rock auto for $221. Couldn't find the one I wanted on ebay for some reason. You do need to completely disconnect and remove the tank. I found a YouTube that I watched ahead of time that was really helpful on what order to do stuff. You kinda need to disconnect some stuff, drop it little, disconnect some more, drop it some more, etc.
 

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You can do the job. Just plan and get extra hardware case anything breaks. Follow instructions on battery disconnection. No special tools. As mentioned run tank as low as you can. Good luck
 

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I have to go to work now but will track down the part # tonight. No rush on it as I have an extra vehicle. Do you remember the manufacturer of the ones you got on Ebay?
I always use oem ac delco, that's what that guy on ebay sells for practically less than 1/2 price from anywhere else, I had bought one for my nbs and it was like $100 and same for my 03 Silverado (for a complete one, not just the pump itself) looks like there mostly $120 now which is still way cheaper
 
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Rownell

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OK. I am back. Thanks again to everybody who is walking me through this. I have narrowed the fuel pump down to two options. The AC Delco MU1615 is 144.50 on ebay and comes with a wiring adapter kit for a 1x4 flat. The AC Delco MU2294 Professional is 224.09 with no adapter. It has 2x2 square plug on it. Assuming mine has the 2x2 on it already (why else send an adapter) I am leaning at spending the extra money so I don't have to deal with splicing the wires and worrying about it down the road. I live in MN and the salt they put on our roads is a killer. Thoughts?
 

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OK. I am back. Thanks again to everybody who is walking me through this. I have narrowed the fuel pump down to two options. The AC Delco MU1615 is 144.50 on ebay and comes with a wiring adapter kit for a 1x4 flat. The AC Delco MU2294 Professional is 224.09 with no adapter. It has 2x2 square plug on it. Assuming mine has the 2x2 on it already (why else send an adapter) I am leaning at spending the extra money so I don't have to deal with splicing the wires and worrying about it down the road. I live in MN and the salt they put on our roads is a killer. Thoughts?
rockauto has the mu2294 for $213.00 with a lifetime warranty, most other places including ebay is only 1year, after shipping cost it will end up the same price but better warranty.
 
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Rownell

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Google had a link for it at Rock Auto but nothing came up. I will find it there. I have bought a lot of parts through them and never had a problem. Except for brake pads for my Mother in law's car. By the time I was getting around to doing it, it was over 30 days and she totaled the car. Hope it wasn't because of the brakes. I can give someone a really good deal on those pads. Still sitting on my work bench.

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