SOLVED: 2010 Tahoe LTZ Pulled dash for core R&R, but can't figure out 1 remaining cable

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jared999

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I pulled my dash (2010 Tahoe LTZ) and hvac box to replace my heater and evap cores, as well as 2 actuators. I'm hoping that someone has recently done a dash pull / R&R evap and heater core job as they may know where this connection goes.

I've got the hvac and dash back in and most of the wiring put back together. Except 1 connection that I just cannot find a place for. It's 2 wires (dark brown and light brown) and splits off near an actuator connector. Any ideas where this goes? I've got several pictures and some things I have thought about below. I want to get this plugged in before I put the entire dash back together.

Right now its dangling near the bottom passenger side actuator.
WP_20210929_13_43_07_Pro.jpg


Its the same shape of connector that plugs into something like this (red circle). What you are seeing below is the mode actuator on the far left of the box. I see a couple of these types of ports on the HVAC tubing, 1-2 on top, one of the left as pictured below. I can't find any others though.
WP_20210921_21_22_37_Pro.jpg


I see no where to plug this in. I'm trying to look for a port like the one above because I assume it plugs into something like that. Perhaps it connects to a loose cable (which I cannot find).

If there is no where for it to plug into on the bottom of the hvac box and not on the bottom of the dash assembly, where in the heck does it go?

I was thinking maybe I have the cables swapped. That is, the top center actuator (1) cable belongs down below and vice versa. So I would swap 1 with 2. But that would mean there is something to connect the cable to up top and I don't see anything on the heater box or the dash frame / hvac tubing. I drew a partial diagram of what I am talking about.
hvac box.jpg



close up of top actuator, behind dash installed in suv
WP_20210929_13_44_39_Pro.jpg


I've identified other connectors which this mystery connector does not plug into
WP_20210929_14_28_37_Pro.jpg
 
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TollKeeper

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It looks like it goes to a passenger side temp sensor?
Maybe a ambient light sensor on top of the dash?
 
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jared999

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It looks like it goes to a passenger side temp sensor?
Maybe a ambient light sensor on top of the dash?
Thanks for the reply. So there is a little plastic bulb that inserts into the top of the dash. Not sure if that is the light sensor you are referring to. There is a separate connection for it. As far as the passenger side temp sensor, not sure where that is, unless it is the one I've already ID'd in my photo. If so, there is a plug for it already.
 
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89Suburban

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Thanks for the reply. So there is a little plastic bulb that inserts into the top of the dash. Not sure if that is the light sensor you are referring to. There is a separate connection for it. As far as the passenger side temp sensor, not sure where that is, unless it is the one I've already ID'd in my photo. If so, there is a plug for it already.
PM me your email address and I will send over a wiring diagram PDF you can look through.
 

89Suburban

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If you want one too let me know I can send it to you too brah.
 
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jared999

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Figured it out. It's a connection tucked under, the opposite side of the blower motor (red circle) this is a shot from the backside. I just kept scanning the photos I already had of the assembly and bingo.

WP_20210921_20_17_25_Pro.jpg
 

89Suburban

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Figured it out. It's a connection tucked under, the opposite side of the blower motor (red circle) this is a shot from the backside. I just kept scanning the photos I already had of the assembly and bingo.

View attachment 351781
How long did it take to R & R that stuff?
 
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jared999

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Took me 4 hours to get everything out and 3 to put it back together. I'm not including the time spent fixing my cracked dash or locating the mystery plug connection.
I could have gotten the dash out quicker except I took extra time labeling bags and putting screws and bolts in there for reassembly. =
 
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jared999

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Honestly, with the correct tools and parts in hand, this is not a difficult job. It's all about having the right tools and parts though. I am going to post a video on youtube describing what to do with the HVAC box and what the actuators are, because I could not find a good one for Tahoes and Yukons. Most of the ones on YT are for silverados and such and the actuators and hvac boxes are different.
 
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89Suburban

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How much did the parts set you back?
 
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jared999

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GM Evap Core 160 .00
GM Heater Core 115.00
GM Inlet Hose T connection 22.00
GM Hose T connection 22.00
GM Heater Inlet Hose 22.00
GM Drier 32.00
GM Actuator 30-35.00
GM Actuator #2 30-35.00
Continental Tank to Core hose assembly 32.00
1 Gallon coolant (I already had. didn't need entire gallon).
Shop towels (already had)

So about $460 shipped to my door (those prices include tax/shipping).
Rock auto for most of those parts, amazon for one of the T connections.
 
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jared999

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The videos I saw of the R&R for the heater hoses made it look quite difficult. I decided I was just going to cut those T connections and replace them with new ones, vs. fiddling with getting them off and so forth. Best $44 I ever spent.
My heater hoses were bad so I was already committed to replacing them.

I should add - I replaced a known bad actuator (driver blend door) and a good actuator (mode actuator) but left the other two good working ones.
Reason being the mode is a ***** to get to. The two actuators on top, if they ever go bad are easy to replace so I left them.
 
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89Suburban

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Great info, look forward to your video.
 

89Suburban

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Is doing a job like this something you are having to do soon?
Hopefully not but I love to learn about it just in case **** hits the fan. I got a lot of miles on her.
 
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jared999

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Hopefully not but I love to learn about it just in case **** hits the fan. I got a lot of miles on her.
Got it. So the best video I have seen so far is this one:

Very similar to what we do for our Tahoes. Only real difference I found was we have 2 T connections (at least I do for my options) under the hood and my heater box was plastic welded and metal screws in other locations. I ended up drilling those wells with a 5/16" bit and then putting bolts in there after I was done to help seal it back.
The hardest thing to do is the get to the nut behind the engine. It's a PITA.
 

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