I was in reverse and my 2003 GMC Yukon and it just stopped engine was running but it will not go anywhere in any gear I found some broken wires that go to the shift motor I was thinking maybe the transfer case slipped in the neutral and that's why I couldn't go anywhere so I just took off the shift motor without making sure it was in neutral but it's got to be in neutral or two wheel it wasn't two wheel high when it went out I got a junkyard shift motor and now I can't get the gears to line up so it'll slide on for me to install it just won't go on all the way because I can't get the gears to line up I read on the internet to get both back tires off the ground and you can turn that little gear that sticks out of the transfer case where the shift motor goes and once you get in the right spot the shift motor Will slide right on no problems I've been trying to do this for hours if anybody out there had a tip or knows a trick I would sure like to try it
Shift motor wont line up
- Thread starter pauly
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I myself have not seen a T-case slip into Neutral. Broken part? Sure, it might seem like Neutral. Are you sure that the trans is actually feeding power out to the T-Case? I have seen many more times where the issue was trans related. Your broken wires may be coincidental, as all was working prior to discovery. When in Reverse, the trans pressure is highest. I'm not convinced something didn't break... Sunshell perhaps? Your idea to safely put the rear on stands for demonstration can't hurt anything, if done safely and we're talking about slightly over idle speed. Hope others jump in to the conversation.
And check for codes. Not all scanners can read TCM.
I'm going to assume that you have the two-speed transfer case with an AUTO button on the dash, RPO code NP8. Is that correct?
Having assumed that, your 2003 transfer case shaft will likely be splined like this pic:
The older transfer cases have a shaft with two flats on it, like this:
Which one does your transfer case have, and does the replacement encoder motor have the correct mate? How about pics of both the new encoder motor female receptacle and the T/C shaft?
Adding @rockola1971 for comments.
Having assumed that, your 2003 transfer case shaft will likely be splined like this pic:
The older transfer cases have a shaft with two flats on it, like this:
Which one does your transfer case have, and does the replacement encoder motor have the correct mate? How about pics of both the new encoder motor female receptacle and the T/C shaft?
Adding @rockola1971 for comments.
rockola1971
Full Access Member
Check to make sure you have the right series (you can tell by looking at the splines or flat sides on the encoder motor) and if they are correct then here is what you do. With vehicle in park, ignition On and encoder motor plugged into chassis wiring harness but NOT installed on Tcase push your 2wd button and see if encoder motor aligns correctly on your Tcase and if it dont then pull it off the Tcase. Push 4wd HI and then try that and see if it aligns. Go through all buttons for 4wd system until you find the right one that aligns and then bolt encoder onto the Tcase.
You likely will have a splined setup like @Fless top pic he posted.
Dont forget to obtain 4wd Lo you will need to put transmission into neutral so set parking brake or block the wheels.
You likely will have a splined setup like @Fless top pic he posted.
Dont forget to obtain 4wd Lo you will need to put transmission into neutral so set parking brake or block the wheels.
That's what I've been doing over and over again but I tried all the positions in neutral because that's where I read somewhere that that's the way you're supposed to do it but I would definitely give it a shot the way you say to do it... When I get it right will the encoder motor slide all the way on and touch the transfer case without the gasket in? Sometimes I seem to get it where it kind of goes on a little further than other times like the gears are actually lined up right and going in but when I put the gasket in I tighten it up where it's pretty tight like probably close to 10 foot pounds (on my way to the 15 foot pounds it's supposed to be) and I can feel the gasket on top and see the gasket on the bottom and there's still quite a bit of space where I can move the gasket back and forth it's still loose in there and that's when a chicken out and take it back off again I know if I keep tightening and it's not lined up right I'm going to pop that little dust cover or whatever it is off I did that on the first one I had
Yeah there's a very distinct difference between the two I learned that at the wrecking yard taking them off it seems that's the only way you can tell the difference is after you take it off
Okay I will check and make sure that the transmission is feeding power to the transfer case power to haven't really done that and I was only putting the rear end on jack stands because it was my understanding that you could turn the little gear that's coming out of the transfer case and put it in the correct gear that way and you didn't work out I'm going to try to move the encoder motor to the right position by plugging it in and try all the positions which I have done but apparently I was doing it wrong thank you you got anything else
It's not throwing any codes but I have a very cheap OBD2 scanner
Okay I will check and make sure that the transmission is feeding power to the transfer case power to haven't really done that and I was only putting the rear end on jack stands because it was my understanding that you could turn the little gear that's coming out of the transfer case and put it in the correct gear that way and you didn't work out I'm going to try to move the encoder motor to the right position by plugging it in and try all the positions which I have done but apparently I was doing it wrong thank you you got anything else
It's not throwing any codes but I have a very cheap OBD2 scanner
4WD
Just an opinion, but I don't think there's a need to continue to quote and answer the same question in different posts. From a personal perspective it makes this difficult to read.
A cheap OBD reader is not going to read chassis codes.
NOTE: If you can turn the rear driveshaft by hand, you should be able to rotate it slightly so as to be able to turn the TCase shaft to change TCase modes with a pair of channel locks.
A cheap OBD reader is not going to read chassis codes.
NOTE: If you can turn the rear driveshaft by hand, you should be able to rotate it slightly so as to be able to turn the TCase shaft to change TCase modes with a pair of channel locks.
Depending on what your "cheap OBD" device is you 'may' be able to read any or all codes in the vehicle.
It's all in the choice of app or software.
With a $15 bluetooth OBD adapter and the right phone app you can absolutely read your 2003 GM vehicles TCCM (Transfer Case Control Module) codes.
That said it doesn't seem like a code is your current issue.
It's all in the choice of app or software.
With a $15 bluetooth OBD adapter and the right phone app you can absolutely read your 2003 GM vehicles TCCM (Transfer Case Control Module) codes.
That said it doesn't seem like a code is your current issue.
I stand corrected; it's the software that can read those codes. I was thinking about a standalone reader, not a Bluetooth dongle and an app.
I agree in that an inexpensive "code reader" is unlikely to read much beyond the usual engine and emissions systems related codes.
An ELM type device either bluetooth or wifi or even wired USB with a good phone app can read and reset codes from most modules.
Those with good techy skills can even go hands on and use just a "dumb terminal" app and do the communications themselves. That route is most definitely NOT for "the masses" though
It's a $15 hyper though from Walmart.
Thank you for the tip. I didn't know that . That's actually pretty cool. I'm going to have to get a little more educated on that and try that out.
PatDTN
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I've had pretty good luck with the "Chevrosys" app on my android phone..
Which question and answer, and where are the different posts? I'm sorry if I posted something difficult for you to read that certainly wasn't my intention. I know my OBD sensor won't do very much that's the whole reason I mentioned it was just a cheap one. Are you saying to turn the drive shaft with one hand while turning the gear with channel locks with the other hand at the same time because
When I turn the drive shaft the gear does not turn the output shaft turns and wouldn't putting my channel locks on the gear smash the points where's the channel locks
contact the gear which would prevent me from getting the motor on even if it is lined up correctly? Shouldn't I wrap the teeth of the gear or the teeth on the channel locks with like tape or something?
Should the shift motor slide all the way on to where it contacts the transfer case without the gasket?
Should the shift motor slide all the way on to where it contacts the transfer case without the gasket?
Should the shift motor slide all the way on to where it contacts the transfer case without the gasket?
What do you mean by demonstration? I explained why I put the rest on stands. I didn't say anything's about demonstration. And why are you talking about idle speed. You're not all there are you?
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