Replacing a 4L60E on a 03 Yukun need help with last bolts

[drspeed2]

Hi All,

I am replacing (actually removing, rebuilding and then re-installing) my 4L60E tranny on a 2003 Yukon (4X4, SLT, 165K miles, 5.3 L).

It's almost out, all I have left to remove are the bolts between the housing and the engine. My problem is with the 2 or 3 bolts on the top side of the tranny. Can anybody advise on the best way to get to these bolts?

On my old Safari there was an easy access to the engine from inside the care, not sure if I can reach the engine bay from the inside on the Yukon, I would hate to take the whole dash out just to find out that it was no use. Any advise would be great. I basically have the transmission jack under the tranny/transfer case, and the ratchet on the bolts of the cross member.

Thanks

 

[fire730]

I'm sure this may not help you but I have a 3 ft long 1/2 in drive extension with a 3/8 end on it that I use a 3/8 drive deep swivel socket with a 1/2 in impact gun. Works every time.

There is NO access from inside the truck so forget that.

Are you using air or hand tools?

 

[drspeed2]

I am using a combination of air tools and hand tools. I have a pretty well equipped (no lift yet). I will head to the store tomorrow and get myself a 3 ft extension and give it a try.

thx

 

[electro]

Hows it going otherwise?

 

[drspeed2]

So far so good. Not the easiest job to do, there was a lot of "surprises" along the way. So far the worst part was removing the exhaust Y, I had 1 striped bolt on each side between the exhaust manifold and the Y. Once this was out all seemed to go pretty smoothly. Little trick for anyone else attempting this, remove the O2 sensor on the drive side to somewhat easily access the bolts between the Y and the manifold.

I got a video from http://www.700r4l60e.com it's really detailed, I'll see how it goes once I have it out of there.

I'll post some pics later this week once I have a few minutes and the tranny on the work bench.

 

[04SS99Denali]

if you have small hands you might be able to reach the 11,12, and 1 o'clock bolts from the top of the engine. like reaching your hand behind the motor between the fire wall. if not just make a 3 foot extension with a swivel, universal whatever you prefer to call it on the end. the exhaust can be a *****, if you plan on installing a new cat back just whip out the sawzall for time saving and install a new cat back later

 

[electro]

Time for an update.

I'm sure its going just fine! I just want to take part.

 

[NC_John]

Hi All,

I am replacing (actually removing, rebuilding and then re-installing) my 4L60E tranny on a 2003 Yukon (4X4, SLT, 165K miles, 5.3 L).

It's almost out, all I have left to remove are the bolts between the housing and the engine. My problem is with the 2 or 3 bolts on the top side of the tranny. Can anybody advise on the best way to get to these bolts?

when I pulled mine back in December I used a cryptic combination of different length extensions and swivels. I also found I had to have my *********** very specific postion for everything to align and work. It was a pain in the ass. Remove the rear crossmember and allow the tranny to tilt down some- that helps.

Oddly though, getting it back together was a lot easier than taking it apart.

 

[Bennie]

As already stated extensions and swivels. I also used ratcheting box wrenches from the top. Patients is the best tool. When it's all done you will look back and think it wasn't really all that bad. It's just a couple bolts right?

 

[Physh1]

Just curious...how much easier is it to get to the top bolts if you removed the intake manifold?

Cameron

 

[NC_John]

Just curious...how much easier is it to get to the top bolts if you removed the intake manifold?

Cameron

Unnecessary. I let me transmission hang down a little bit (removed the crossmember and held the tranny with a jack). That'll give you better access.

Now I will say that removing the intake manifold will make getting that damn transmission dipstick back in place a hell of a lot easier but I still wouldn't do it.

 

[drspeed2]

Thanks for all the advise, at the end I used a 20" and a 15" extension with a ball joint and a deep socket to get to the bolt I ran it back towards the driver side, this turned out to be rather easy.

The hardest bolt was the middle one on the passenger side, I had to use the same setup, the reason was a set of 2 rigid lines going to the back (brake or gas lines).

For the other hard to reach bolts I came in from the wheel wells using an articulated retched head monkey wrench (best set of tools I got in a while).

Now that all the bolts are out I just need to pull the tranny out. Here are some pictures of the setup I had to do to lift the car high enough to be able to work;
https://plus.google.com/photos/108664577760455873058/albums/5751888270973233809

Next post will be about taking the tranny out of the there, I am waiting for a friend to come over and give me hand, I figured it will be safer and easier if I am not alone trying to get it out of there.

I'll try to take some picture for anyone else attempting this for the first time.

And once again thanks for all the tips.

 

[drspeed2]

help to pry the tranny and engine appart

Hi All,

So after a few weeks of not working on the truck, due to actual work, I am back in the shop.

All bolts are off, flywheel bolts removed, cross-member is out, and the tranny is on the tranny jack.

Problem: the tranny seems "stuck" to the engine, I am not sure how to pry them apart. I see a round hole where I could insert a tool, but is this safe? Where should hit with the hammer? Any guidance will be welcome!

thanks

 

[bottomline2000]

Only thing keeping them together could be these alignment pins. May need a shock to break em free..

The pin between the black engine stand mounts.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk 2

 

[drspeed2]

Hi bottomline2000,

Was this picture taken from the bottom? Just want to reduce the time to find the alignment pin.

thanks!

 

[bottomline2000]

That is the left rear of the engine. Just below the heads.

If facing the engine it would be at 9 and 3 0'clock at the back of the engine.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk 2

 

[NC_John]

Yep, its the alignment dowels. Gently rock the transmission right to left by the tail or get a prybar and gently separate it from the engine block, a little on each side at a time.

 

[drspeed2]

Hi All, it's been a while since I was able to work on the truck. I am still having trouble removing the tranny from the block. I have located the alignment pins, my only issue is that I am afraid to break the housing of the tranny or the engine block. How hard can push with a pry bar? I tried lowering or raising the tranny to help, I tried rocking it from left to right. All I can see is that bottom of the housing seems to not be stuck any more, but the top part is just fused there.

Any tricks or advise? How much force should be needed to separate the engine from the tranny?

I tripple checked and I am 100% that I have all the bolts out.

thanks!!

 

[hoe]

Hi All, it's been a while since I was able to work on the truck. I am still having trouble removing the tranny from the block. I have located the alignment pins, my only issue is that I am afraid to break the housing of the tranny or the engine block. How hard can push with a pry bar? I tried lowering or raising the tranny to help, I tried rocking it from left to right. All I can see is that bottom of the housing seems to not be stuck any more, but the top part is just fused there.

Any tricks or advise? How much force should be needed to separate the engine from the tranny?

I tripple checked and I am 100% that I have all the bolts out.

thanks!!

make sure the converter bolts are all out... then PRY that sucker... just use some muscle it will take it. Big crow bar or even a mallet as well.

 

[drspeed2]

The project was stalled for a while, but it's almost done now, got the tranny out, it's stripped it, and it's now ready to go back in.