Replacing window regulator when window stuck in down position - SOLVED

[NC Yukon]

All the tutorials I can find show an early step of taping the wimdow glass in the up position and then loosening the fittings where the glass attaches to the regulator.

My glass is stuck in the fully down position, and it won't move with the application of reasonable force. With my typical wrench/ratchet set, I have no tool that will permit me to reach the bolts on the glass attachment fittings (which I'll call the glass clamp bolts).

What is the right way to proceed? Do I loosen the entire regulator assembly and then maneuver the glass clamp bolts into position for loosening? Is there a tool that I need to purchase that will allow me to access the glass clamp bolts in their low position?

Thanks for reading. Any thoughts appreciated.

 

[Doubeleive]

All the tutorials I can find show an early step of taping the wimdow glass in the up position and then loosening the fittings where the glass attaches to the regulator.

My glass is stuck in the fully down position, and it won't move with the application of reasonable force. With my typical wrench/ratchet set, I have no tool that will permit me to reach the bolts on the glass attachment fittings (which I'll call the glass clamp bolts).

What is the right way to proceed? Do I loosen the entire regulator assembly and then maneuver the glass clamp bolts into position for loosening? Is there a tool that I need to purchase that will allow me to access the glass clamp bolts in their low position?

Thanks for reading. Any thoughts appreciated.

you have to do it whatever way you can see to do it, there is no special tool, just have to use your noggin.

 

[PG01]

BFH

 

[mountie]

I replaced my complete rear passenger window assembly. It took a total, hour & 15 minutes. ( after removing the panel)

$ 80.00 at O’Reily Autoparts. ( YouTube has good ‘how to’ videos )

 

[NC Yukon]

you have to do it whatever way you can see to do it, there is no special tool, just have to use your noggin.

Yeah, I think you're right. I hate it when that's my only option!

 

[Doubeleive]

Yeah, I think you're right. I hate it when that's my only option!

my only question would be are you sure it is not just the switch?

 

[NC Yukon]

BFH

Yeah, but once I can work on it in the shade things are gonna get real. Too dang hot right now. I hope I don't break the glass!

 

[NC Yukon]

my only question would be are you sure it is not just the switch?

I'm not at all sure that the switch is an innocent bystander. But I think the motor is bad because I ran 12 volts to it (the motor) and nothing happened. I ran the same 12 volts to the known good motor, and it ran.

Testing the switch seems hard (based on my skillset). If the parts are cheap enough, then sometimes it's better for me to throw parts at it than to diagnose.

The replacement motor is cheap, but the switch looks expensive. I think I'll replace the 21 year old motor and see if the new one works. Replacing the switch doesn't appear to be hard, just costly.

 

[strutaeng]

I think all the window regulators that have failed on my trucks will cause the window to simply fall down. I've been able to manually slide the glass upwards and temporarily hold it with pieces of tape.

I wonder if you can somehow remove the motor mechanism so can slide the glass upwards? IDK?

 

[Doubeleive]

I'm not at all sure that the switch is an innocent bystander. But I think the motor is bad because I ran 12 volts to it (the motor) and nothing happened. I ran the same 12 volts to the known good motor, and it ran.

Testing the switch seems hard (based on my skillset). If the parts are cheap enough, then sometimes it's better for me to throw parts at it than to diagnose.

The replacement motor is cheap, but the switch looks expensive. I think I'll replace the 21 year old motor and see if the new one works. Replacing the switch doesn't appear to be hard, just costly.

when you tested with 12v did you also switch polarity? one way is up and one way is down, but yes that's most likely a dead motor.
probably better off grabbing a used oem one from the junkyard if you can, these repops are plastic garbage and will not last 20 years like the original did.
they trick you by putting metal on the outside but the parts inside are plastic.
usually you can weigh them in your hand the repop's depending.... on who made it will be a bit or a lot lighter.

 

[NC Yukon]

you have to do it whatever way you can see to do it, there is no special tool, just have to use your noggin.

when you tested with 12v did you also switch polarity? one way is up and one way is down, but yes that's most likely a dead motor.
probably better off grabbing a used oem one from the junkyard if you can, these repops are plastic garbage and will not last 20 years like the original did.
they trick you by putting metal on the outside but the parts inside are plastic.
usually you can weigh them in your hand the repop's depending.... on who made it will be a bit or a lot lighter.

Ok guys. It's fixed! Special thanks to Doubelieve who basically said "just fix it!"

The problem was that I couldn't reach the glass attachment clamps with the window in the down position. The simple solution was buying a 10mm flexhead ratcheting wrench which allowed my to access and turn the bolt.

Some thoughts for any non-mechanic noob doing this for the first time:

1. Don't just replace the motor. Get a whole prefab motor/regulator assembly. I had to pull the whole thing out either way and mounting the motor alone can involve a lot of cable rigging that I wasn't up to. Pulling and replacing the entire assembly is not that hard a job. Watch the youtube tutorials and be willing to buy a new tool or two if you need to get at an inconvenient piece of hardware. Plus, you wont be putting a new motor on an old assembly that may have rusty cables worn parts.

2. It was very helpful to have a small 12 volt battery (like a riding mower battery) and some low voltage alligator clip leads. This allows you to easily test the old motor before you remove it. It also helps you position the glass clamps where you need them at various times in the process. Just hook the leads to the motor power pins and then control up and down by which battery terminals you touch. I got the electrical leads at Horror Fright for about $3.

For the front passenger side window (2004 Yukon Denali) I used Dorman 741-645 which was $78 from my neighbothood Autozone.I expect I could have gotten it from Rock Auto for half that, but I want to finish this project TODAY and Autozone gives a lifetime warranty which I can redeem in person should tne need arise.

Thanks to everyone for the input. I'm almost looking forward to my next window failure!

 

[DRLexpress]

Thanks, I wish everyone would come back with a ..."-SOLVED" reply.

 

[PG01]

Thanks, I wish everyone would come back with a ..."-SOLVED" reply.

Good luck with that wish….. lol

 

[Fless]

Thanks, I wish everyone would come back with a ..."-SOLVED" reply.

and edited the thread title as such.

 

[DRLexpress]

Good luck with that wish….. lol

We can dream can't we.