RENAMED!! The adventures of Chase and his 2006 Yukon XL Denali!! Follow along on my travels!

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adventurenali92

adventurenali92

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I did them all with a socket, the upper nut iirc you have to kinda reach up there blind with a socket but once you know where it is your good, I didn’t remove any of the door glass on mine


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Interesting. Every video I looked at on YouTube showed the glas being removed and no one said it could be done with put. When you did you’re, did you leave the glass rolled all the way up? Or did you roll it all the way down?
 

95escahoe

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Interesting. Every video I looked at on YouTube showed the glas being removed and no one said it could be done with put. When you did you’re, did you leave the glass rolled all the way up? Or did you roll it all the way down?

I’m pretty sure I did it with the glass all the way up, cause I’d think if it was down it might block access to some of the bolts


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adventurenali92

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I’m pretty sure I did it with the glass all the way up, cause I’d think if it was down it might block access to some of the bolts


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Interesting. I’ll have to try that for the passenger side handles. Cuz it was a major PITA... lol. That would shorten the job quite a bit!
 

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Interesting.

I have never removed the glass on any of the doors to do the handles.

Once you remove the door panel and pull back the water shield you will have access to the inside.

There are only 3 nuts total to pull the handle out. IIRC 7 or 8mm. Sorry just took these off the other day but cannot recall the size.

Front doors - One bolt needs a socket extension after you remove the body plug from the door. That would be the rear top nut.

Second bolt needs a socket extension to remove. That would be the rear lower nut.

The front nut is the one you have to reach up inside sort of blind with your left hand. Socket without extension or open ended socket wrench makes it easier. Once loose this bit can be removed with your fingers.

Once the 3 nuts are off, move to the outside of the door as if you were opening it. Gently pull the handle up and out to expose the lock rod which fits through a small plastic sleeve into the handle.

Then the handle should be free to disassemble.

2F4AA6DF-41BD-48BA-93D6-F1CB875F7FCA.jpeg
 
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1992rs

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I did them all with a socket, the upper nut iirc you have to kinda reach up there blind with a socket but once you know where it is your good, I didn’t remove any of the door glass on mine


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+1 never had to remove the windows/regulators to get to the handles. Always used either a 1/4 ratchet or a wrench.


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Interesting.

I have never removed the glass on any of the doors to do the handles.

Once you remove the door panel and pull back the water shield you will have access to the inside.

There are only 3 nuts total to pull the handle out. IIRC 7 or 8mm. Sorry just took these off the other day but cannot recall the size.

Front doors - One bolt needs a socket extension after you remove the body plug from the door. That would be the rear top nut.

Second bolt needs a socket extension to remove. That would be the rear lower nut.

The front nut is the one you have to reach up inside sort of blind with your left hand. Socket without extension or open ended socket wrench makes it easier. Once loose this bit can be removed with your fingers.

Once the 3 nuts are off, move to the outside of the door as if you were opening it. Gently pull the handle up and out to expose the lock rod which fits through a small plastic sleeve into the handle.

Then the handle should be free to disassemble.

View attachment 228652
Pretty sure the nuts are 10mm. I leave the rods attached to the handles , just unhook from the door latch.
 

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Yes leave the glass all the way up , down will block the nuts. A ratcheting wrench works great in there.
 
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adventurenali92

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So here is this mess, it’s reqlly irritating me. Stupid tab is broken by all of a half inch piece of plastic... it’s so dumb that GM made this crap out of plastic.....
the drivers side that’s intact:

20655363-FAC3-4778-82B2-4F40DDF077DB.jpeg
And the broken side: 549E4BFF-22BC-4196-9DAC-2CE92D986443.jpeg
 
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adventurenali92

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My key situation lately has been kinda weird. The key on the right is broken on the loop for the key ring. Hence the electrical tape. But I have been using the key on the left tied to the remote, so much so that it’s dull and ignition sticks and I have to wiggle and jiggle to get it to turn. Which is super irritating. Silver NBS key fob still works though.
7E7DF81D-88B5-48B6-A9B4-BC256585B059.jpeg
So here’s my solution: two new keys and a second remote from boost auto parts, 2015 style. Decided I liked the first one I ordered so I ordered a second one. Thankfully they’re pretty easy to program.
Two new keys and two new remotes: 087765E7-D34F-419C-944C-230BCB2854D4.jpeg
The remove before flight chain is my primary key! Cuz I’m that guy! And I have one of those hooked to my snow pants that I wear when I’m teaching snowboarding! The kids get a pretty good laugh out of it so I figured I needed one for my truck key! Now I definitely know which keys are mine when I hit the gym for class and all of our keys get disorganized haha.
 
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You know for as much talk as I hear about how difficult painting chrome is, I’m feeling pretty confident in my painting skills right now. Lol. I’ve got the new grille covered in three coats of primer. And so far the primer came out really great! Can’t wait to start color in about a half hour! Here we go!!

B30D0703-7E47-4418-A897-4C7232D54422.jpeg
Gotta love the army green of self etching primer! Haha. Im also doing the backing piece for the gmc logo. I’m sick of black plastics. Lol.
 
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You know for as much talk as I hear about how difficult painting chrome is, I’m feeling pretty confident in my painting skills right now. Lol. I’ve got the new grille covered in three coats of primer. And so far the primer cane out really great! Can’t wait to start color in about a half hour! Here we go!!

View attachment 228785
Gotta love the army green of self etching primer! Haha. Im also doing the backing piece for the gmc logo. I’m sick of black plastics. Lol.
It’s not that it’s hard to paint, it’s hard to make it last without it chipping easily. The only way to see how good you did is let time tell. My painter said he had his helper sand for quite a few hours on mine but he painted the center too which is tedious due to all those holes and most of that had to be done by hand. He started with 80 grit and worked to 600. It has a few rock chips after 2 years but still looks great. Good work Chase.
 
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adventurenali92

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It’s not that it’s hard to paint, it’s hard to make it last without it chipping easily. The only way to see how good you did is let time tell. My painter said he had his helper sand for quite a few hours on mine but he painted the center too which is tedious due to all those holes and most of that had to be done by hand. He started with 80 grit and worked to 600. It has a few rock chips after 2 years but still looks great. Good work Chase.
Oh yeah! I spent several hours sanding over the last couple of nights haha. Fortunately for me I am leaving the center chrome like my last one. The paint on my last grill has held up incredibly well. Only one tiny chip in the paint and it’s barely noticeable. The other stuff is just scratches from the fender tab being broken and wiggling around.
 

ivin74

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So working on a fix for that tab.... I had to get um.... creative.....
Stay tuned. Mean while there’s this guy! Gonna scuff up a perfectly brand new grille! All for the sake of paint!! Lol
A pre sanded photo:
View attachment 228692


Chase post some pics of the final product.

Friday I dropped off the grill and the escalade roof rack at the chrome shop, getting it de-chromed. Hopefully, I can paint it right after.
 
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adventurenali92

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Chase post some pics of the final product.

Friday I dropped off the grill and the escalade roof rack at the chrome shop, getting it de-chromed. Hopefully, I can paint it right after.
It’s painted! I didn’t dechrome. But not an overly difficult process to sand and prepfor paint. I’ve learned from many of the experienced guys on this forum that self etching primer is the key to getting paint to play nice with chrome. And I can attest to that. Every paint project I’ve tackled after learning that, even plastic parts, I use self etching primer. Just letting paint cure for a couple more days before I do a finish sand, and then a fresh coat of sealant before it goes on my truck.
 

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