Rear suspension= squeaky and how to release air in rear auto leveling.

[Shadow17]

First of all, the rear suspension is squeaky on my 2 month old Yukon. Has anyone else noticed a noisy rear suspension when going over bumps?

Also, is there a way to expedite the process of releasing the air in the rear leveling system? Sometimes when I try to unhook a trailer the jack will not lift the tongue high enough to get off the receiver ball due to the rear air suspension being raised. Typically I have to let the truck sit with the tongue off the hitch for 10 minutes. Is there a quicker way to get the air to release?

 

[NathanJax]

Also, is there a way to expedite the process of releasing the air in the rear leveling system? Sometimes when I try to unhook a trailer the jack will not lift the tongue high enough to get off the receiver ball due to the rear air suspension being raised. Typically I have to let the truck sit with the tongue off the hitch for 10 minutes. Is there a quicker way to get the air to release?

Turn the truck off?

 

[Shadow17]

Turn the truck off?

I do. Then you have to wait up to 10 minutes for all the air to release as per manual.

 

[BMPNUGLS]

I've wondered if one could make a replacement autoride link (like they make from all thread for those lowering their rides) that is slightly longer and would release a little more air but might make the rear ride a little 'softer'....

 

[olyelr]

First of all, the rear suspension is squeaky on my 2 month old Yukon. Has anyone else noticed a noisy rear suspension when going over bumps?

Also, is there a way to expedite the process of releasing the air in the rear leveling system? Sometimes when I try to unhook a trailer the jack will not lift the tongue high enough to get off the receiver ball due to the rear air suspension being raised. Typically I have to let the truck sit with the tongue off the hitch for 10 minutes. Is there a quicker way to get the air to release?

At 35k miles now I have yet to hear a single peep from the rear suspension on my wifes yukon.

I know exactly what you are talking about with the delay on the air release. I have not heard of a way to make it release sooner.

I've wondered if one could make a replacement autoride link (like they make from all thread for those lowering their rides) that is slightly longer and would release a little more air but might make the rear ride a little 'softer'....

The length of the links just dictates when the system thinks the back will be level with the front. Changing the length of the links will just make it so the rear will not level up properly.

Also, I am not sure about the "softer" part. If the load is heavy enough to warrant the shocks to air up, chances are you need the added stiffness. I will say, all the times we have used the air shocks they seam to be setup very well from the factory. No complaints here.

 

[Rocket Man]

If you can reach the fittings where they attach to either shock you can just pull the air line. You either push or pull the wire clip (I forget which) and pop the fitting off, then it just pushes back on. With my wheels I can reach through.

 

[jmitchell]

The squeak from the rear is most likely the e-brake cables rubbing on the cable keeper (metal loop) right adjacent to your drivers side rear wheel. If you get underneath the vehicle from the rear and push up to get the vehicle rocking up and down near the spare tire you'll be able to duplicate the sound. Annoying indeed and in fact I have tried to tape up the cables, lube them up, etc. and after a good mag chloride outing in the snow or after a car wash the squeak is back. I also noticed that one of the cables rubs up near a bushing directly under the drivers side rear door. This spot is much harder to get to. I still don't have a solution and am about to let the dealer deal with it but I like making my own fixes. I'm tempted to remove the entire metal loop and see what happens. Let me see if I can find a picture of the location.

 

[jmitchell]

Here you go. Let me know if you come up with anything...

 

[BMPNUGLS]

Would a piece of hose the correct id cut to slip over the cable at the rub point and zip tied to the cable at least cute the squeak until the hose wore out and needed to be replaced??

 

[BMPNUGLS]

Or you could probably as you mention remove the metal loop and use a heavy duty zip tie in its place to hold the cable in place.. The e-brake cables have a metal surround/outside so they aren't going to wear through and break...just make w noise like 'nails on a chaulkboard when it rubs!!