rear bagged with pics

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SQNALI

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rear bagged with pics -- MORE PICS PAGE 2

Well, SUSPENSION PICS ON PAGE 2
Rear lower 4-link arms special length ordered from suicide doors
Panhard with super-pivot special length ordered from suicide doors
Rear upper 4-link arms custom built by myself with a 5 degree bushing offset
Slam Specialties SS 8" bags
Norgren 3/8" fittings
3/8" dot airline from suicide doors
Upper and lower bag plates and perches from suicide doors
Belltech nitro 2 drop shocks
Appletree automotive 18" limiting straps
Accuair E-Level w/ ride height sensors
Accuair Vu4 valve block
SMC 3/8" air/water seperators (X2)
Viair 444C Twin compressor pack
Stinger 150 amp relay/Stinger 100 amp circuit breaker
Stinger 8 AWG power/ground
Ekstensive 5 gallon 7 port tank
C-notch frame (6" OD pipe half) performed by myself
Panhard bar mounts fabricated/gusseted/welded myself
Installation = ALL MYSELF


Front is soon to come - please standby.

Yes those are the stock 17"s. 22" Wheels have been purchased and wont go on until front is finished.

More pics of compressors and stuff tomorrow.
 

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BOSS

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That sounds like a helluva setup, pics of the underside! Now!

B
 
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SQNALI

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Will get pics tomorrow -- you can see the back of the box from one of the pics through the hole area where the hitch used to be. The box was constructed by myself out of 10 AWG sheet metal.

The box has been bedlined and has a plate cover with numerous torx head screws and bolts making it rather difficult to remove without the truck on a lift.
 

Tahoewhat

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Looks good. What kind of 22's you putting on? One day i will bag mine...
 
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SQNALI

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The front suspension will consist of upper and lower DJM 3" drop arms for an NNBS 4wd tahoe, Belltech adjustable struts, Universal air suspension Aero Power sport front strut bags. -- Custom upper strut perches welded to frame. The front differential/axle assembly will be relocated 1.5" up in chassis.

Also, I chose to only lower the rear as far as possible before having to hack up the back half of the truck body floor. There is approximately .010" between the top of the rear diff pumpkin and body floor. Also about 1.25" on each side tire to fender clearance to the top of the inner fender and sides of the fender -- rear fender lips will be rolled before wheels go on.

Oh yeah, Still drive this truck daily....more pics in t-minus 6 hrs.
 
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SQNALI

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pics OOO BTW, The brown that looks like rust is actually primer. Im also not quite done yet as the gas tank filller neck needs routed farther away from the bag on the drivers side. I have exhaust turn downs that need to be welded in still. There is also plenty of grinding and cleaning welds that needs to be done.
 

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SQNALI

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probably be booted for uploading this many pics

first two in here are the cut and relocated rear crossmember. also boxed body mounts welded outside and in.

4th shot is the clearance between the gas tank and the bag, the gas tank was relocated about 1.75" forward on the frame for clearance.
 

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SQNALI

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yep....couple more........still have more.....sorry if some are hard to grasp -- its a tight fit in there.

Also -- recently added pics are with the truck at ride height other than the measuring tape ones.

Ground to fender is about 27.25" rear of running board is 2.75".

That last pic is the power wire for the compressors into a stinger 100A circuit breaker. It is wired underneath the passenger rear seat where my 0 AWG feeds the sound system ampifiers. Sound system and air ride run off secondary charging system(dual alternators/batteries under hood.)

1st shot is drivers c-notch

2nd,3rd,4th are custom panhard mounts/gusseted to axle
 

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Max

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Looks pretty good dude, though I am a bit concerned about some of the welds on the cups overall it should ride nice and lay out pretty dope on the 2s. What size tire do you plan on running?
 
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SQNALI

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Im going for 285/35R22. The wheels are the 2010 Denali/Hybrid 22x9 +31mm offset. Debating on having the chrome stripped and powdercoated black or just leave them alone.

Oh the lower bag plates are welded to the factory lower spring perch.(ground the spring center out of the perch). The 1.5" DOM tube was sliced down the side and actually sits on that lower perch and against the axle tube. Cant really get a good pic cuz it was welded all back together.
 

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SQNALI

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someone asked about pics of the doors? the door wells were left alone - as the factory 4 link travels up it brings the wheel too far forward into the door jam. Instead of hacking apart the doors/door jams/etc I instead relocated the entire rear axle 1.75" towards the back of the truck. Thus, when its completely aired out the wheel sits centered in the wheel well.

Oh, with the factory 4 link, once the rear axle is at a certain level the rear driveshaft is fully plunged forward into the back of t-case rear output shaft snout(too close for comfort). Just adds to the need to bring the rear axle tube back in chassis.
 

Grocery Getter

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Oh, with the factory 4 link, once the rear axle is at a certain level the rear driveshaft is fully plunged forward into the back of t-case rear output shaft snout(too close for comfort). Just adds to the need to bring the rear axle tube back in chassis.

Hey, I bagged my rear and when I am riding at say 30-31'' fender to ground I get a honking-goose sound coming from the rear end when coming to a slow stop, only when there is no load on the drive shaft. I never get it on acceleration or during a hard stop, only when coming to a slow controlled stop. Do you think the could be a result of what you are talking about here? I am bagged with a pipe notch just like the one you put in but am running stock 4link and panhard. I will be putting in an adjustable pan hard a s soon as my buddy get's back from SEMA and has time to do it.
 

Max

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You're 2wd right Justin? You have more shaft since there is no tcase in the 2wd trucks.
 

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