Hi I'm currently doing the 6" rcx lift and ran into the exhaust problem. Now is it possible for me to pull the driveshaft out for the time being until I can get to the muffler shop. Now I have the button 4x4 but I can still spin the drive shaft freely when the ignition is on. So I don't think I have auto trac. Now my issue is that the driveshaft up bolts from the diff but slides out out the transfer case now can I drive like that? Will it leak anything? Any help will be appreciated.
Rcx lift help!!!
- Thread starter Piggi3
- Start date
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SunlitComet
OBS Jedi-Do Good
unbolt the front to get the shaft out but don't drive like that. if you do fluid can get dirty or leak out because the seal in front rubs against the shaft joint that you just removed. but one thing first. are you sure about the setup of the front shaft? looking at the diagrams for the different cases you might have. they both seem to show that the front output yoke is held down with a nut.
if you have auto-trac you have to have a 1998 or newer and your control switch will have a total of five functions and say auto 4wd on the switch.
if you have auto-trac you have to have a 1998 or newer and your control switch will have a total of five functions and say auto 4wd on the switch.
It's a 98 and it does have 5 buttons I believe will check tomorrow but I read that if you can spin the shaft freely then don't have auto trac is that not right. Is thier anyway I can remove the drive shaft for good I don't need 4x4 my drive shaft has a boot on the end of it that slides out of the transfer case
SunlitComet
OBS Jedi-Do Good
the t-case actually has clutch packs on the front output of t-case. in normal operation that shaft would normally always be spinning in auto mode fully engage to the front axle ready to go into action as needed as determined by the clutch pressure. in 4wd mode also spinning to run the front axle. 2wd an neutral disconnect the front shaft. when you just turn the truck off the system will disengage. tho it may not fully disengage fully until key is back on and also dependent on what mode you are in. even if you do not use it leave everything in place and test the modes periodically for proper operation. you start removing parts and the t-case computer will notice it and start throwing codes not to mention fluid leaking all over. earlier t-cases will do as listed above as well but not have the auto4wd function. your switch has two switches with a total of 4 positions that offer five choices of operation.
SunlitComet
OBS Jedi-Do Good
then the shaft remains disengaged. and leave the switch attach an running. sometimes it can give you a heads up of something wrong before the error light starts coming on.even if you stay in 2wd all the time trust me one day you may need it. there are plenty of reasons why it should stay and use it but it is the reasons you have not thought of that you will need it then.
SunlitComet
OBS Jedi-Do Good
just leave it alone then but don't unplug things, just ignore it for now. if one does not want 4wd and attempts to remove parts in it a person seriously need to get a different vehicle because it will just cause big problems.
SunlitComet
OBS Jedi-Do Good
they should all come out but may be a little stuck with age. rubber mallet them maybe. however i think the left rear needs the tank lowered because the bolts were installed with the head inboard. good idea to replace them if you can so a person would remove the nut just to the end of bolt and push inward. he would then use a reciprocating saw and cut head off. new bolt would go with the nut on the tank side.
---------- Post added at 09:01 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:00 PM ----------
if you do replace them all with ones from the dealer get a puller or air hammer as needed to pound them out. sounds like they may be rusted in place perhaps.
---------- Post added at 09:01 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:00 PM ----------
if you do replace them all with ones from the dealer get a puller or air hammer as needed to pound them out. sounds like they may be rusted in place perhaps.
Managed doing it with out taking the main spring out but i did cut one bolt so now I gotta go to the spring shop to get it out. I tried air hammer 5lb sledge it will not budge. Now I have a question I tightens up the front end with the truck up and the top of the tires are sticking out a lot. I couldn't figure out how to adjust the control arms to bring them in. I wanted to bring them in a bit so I can drive it to get a alignment. Is it safe to drive like that?
SunlitComet
OBS Jedi-Do Good
uh, was there instruction saying you needed to lengthen your drive shaft? should not even have drove it with that much sticking out. probably done some spline damage by now.
bowtiefreak
No Quarter
Had the same problem with the drive shaft on my two door. Needed to be lengthened
SunlitComet
OBS Jedi-Do Good
yeah, i think you need to ***** them out about the extra work not being noted so people know in advance.
So I talked to rough country on thier live chat online and explained what happened they told me to measure from the rear wheel well to the centre of the axle mine was 28" they told I'm lifted to high it's suppose to be 27" now everything was stock before the lift wAs on. They swore up and down that it had to be lifted before because theirs no way it could measure that high with thier add a leaf and blocks. I asked them now what do I do and they ended the conversation lol. So now I gotta get my drive shaft lengthened. So just so you know if you have a 2door be prepared to lengthen your drive shaft. Thanks for all the help again
SunlitComet
OBS Jedi-Do Good
yeah, given the same lift height a shorter wheelbase 2dr will get a steeper shaft angle then a 4dr pulling the shaft out more.
bowtiefreak
No Quarter
^^^this. Not a big deal on the burb. I also needed to go to a CV shaft since the angle was so steep. I lifted a good bit though on mine. Close to 7" maybe a touch more in the rear
