rattle coming from engine when A/C on

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bluhminator

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when the A/C is on and I rev the engine or accelerate a loud rattle comes from engine (passenger side), especially when rpms on the way down. could this be from the compressor? I have a 2001 yukon xl 1500 4wd - any suggestions would be appreciated. - Dave
 

swtz71

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It only rattles when the A/C is on? or can you hear it a little with it off? I ask only cause i thought my A/C clutches were bad but found that the tension pulley for the A/C was wasted...
 

07Burb

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X3 on bearing....could be in AC compressor...
 

ScottyBoy

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I have the same exact problem. I am currently riding with no AC, I took the belt off t prevent further damage. It's the compressor locking up and causing extreme stress on the tensioner causing it to violent shake and it sounds like a mini jackhammer upon acceleration. You need a new compressor. If you keep driving it like that, it can destroy the belt and/or tensioner and the flailing belt can damage the transmission cooler lines which run right underneath it. Look up this GM Tech service bulliten for more info. TSB 03-01-38-019A



Here is the info on the TSB:

Underhood Rattle Noise Heard on Acceleration (Check A/C System Performance and Compressor Operation) #03-01-38-019A - (Sep 3, 2004)

Underhood Rattle Noise Heard On Acceleration (Check A/C System Performance and Compressor Operation)

2003-2004 Cadillac CTS
2002-2004 Cadillac Escalade, Escalade EXT
2003-2004 Cadillac Escalade ESV
2002-2004 Chevrolet Avalanche, Express, Silverado, Suburban, Tahoe
2002-2004 GMC Denali, Denali XL, Savana, Sierra, Yukon, Yukon XL
2002-2004 Commercial Upfitter Chassis Vehicles
2003-2004 HUMMER H2 with Air Conditioning (A/C)

This bulletin is being revised to update the service procedure and parts information. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 03-01-38-019 (Section 01 -- HVAC).

Condition
Some customers may comment about an underhood rattle noise heard on acceleration or a sudden loss of A/C system performance.

Cause
Service Information
This condition may be caused by liquid slugging of the A/C compressor. This condition may cause an internal failure in the A/C compressor. The serpentine belt tensioner and serpentine belt may also be damaged.

Correction
Technicians are to check the A/C system performance and compressor operation using the following repair procedure:

1. Open the hood and inspect the A/C compressor for damage and to see if the compressor is seized.
Verify that the serpentine belt is not damaged or missing. If the A/C compressor is seized, proceed to step 5.

2. Perform the A/C System Performance test. Refer to the Heating, Ventilation and Air Conditioning (HVAC) section of SI. Correct any performance concerns or refrigerant leaks that are found.

3. Inspect the vehicle for other possible sources of A/C compressor noise or performance concerns. Refer to Corporate Bulletin Number 01-01-38-013 for more information.

4. After all other possible sources of A/C compressor noise or performance concerns have been eliminated, only then should the A/C compressor be replaced.

5. Remove the A/C compressor. Refer to the A/C Compressor Replacement procedure in the HVAC section of SI.

6. Inspect the transmission cooler lines for damage due to contact from the serpentine belt. Replace the transmission cooler lines if necessary.

7. Install an inline A/C system filter. Refer to Corporate Bulletin Number 01-01-38-006C for more information about A/C system flushing and filter installation procedures. An A/C system flush is not to be done unless prior authorization is given by the GM Area Service Manager (in Canada, the District Service Manager).

8. Install an A/C Suction Screen. Refer to Corporate Bulletin Number 01-01-39-003A for more information about A/C suction screen repair recommendations and procedures.

9. Install a new A/C compressor. Refer to the Compressor Replacement procedure in the HVAC section of SI.

10. Install a new orifice tube for the front A/C system. Refer to the Expansion (Orifice) Tube Replacement procedure in SI.

11. If the vehicle is a 2003 model year Chevrolet Express or GMC Savana van, the vehicle may require a new accumulator. Refer to Corporate Bulletin Number 03-01-38-016 for more information. This bulletin refers to an updated design accumulator that may improve the performance of the A/C system.

12. Install a new serpentine belt tensioner and serpentine belt if they have been damaged due to A/C system slugging or an A/C compressor seizure. The serpentine belt tensioner may have broken stop tabs and/or a missing front cap.

13. Verify proper operation of the A/C system.
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konaking

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Looks like i'm in the same boat with my 01 Yukon. Doesn't do it every time though. With AC on and when the compressor kicks in, but then it engages and the loud clicking stops. I was hoping it was just the A/C clutch ?
 
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Bigntall1

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I know this is an old post but instead of me creating a new thread about my issues I decided to search and see what I could find. Looks like I hit the nail on the coffin. But The bulletin references Tahoes from 02 - 04 however mine is a 2000 and it has the exact same symptons.
It's getting worst. Should I remove the belt to prevent damage to the rest of the A/C unit?

---------- Post added at 09:36 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:13 PM ----------

One more question. when shopping for a new compressor do I get one with or without the clutch or is the clutch part of the compressor?
 

Schwab

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We had a newer suburban come into the dealership a couple of weeks ago with a similar problem. May not be the exact same sound, but the root cause of the complaint on that particular vehicle was a transmission dipstick tube that was barely touching the ac lines into the evaporator core. Most likely, it is the compressor, but this also may be something you may want to quickly check.
 

Bigntall1

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Took mine to the shop today. I was told I needed a new compressor, Accumilator, Belt Tensioner, Oriphice Tube, pretty much a whole system and they want to do it all for $1188. Said the compressor is $467 alone. I'll get one more quote and then I gotta get it fixed. Too hot in Mississippi to go without air.
 

Schwab

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Curious why it needs a new accumulator? The only thing I know of that could cause them to be bad is if it was leaking. I could be wrong though?
 

Fausto

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Have the same problem on my Yukon... It doesn't do it all the time, only when I stop at a light or stop sign... Ima have someone take a look at it.
 

Chevyrida

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I seem to have the same problem. I wonder if its worth trying to get under there and replace the clutch bearing before paying for a whole new unit?
 

ATL

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mine used to clunk, it was the clutches going out. if it gets bad enough like mine did, everytime u hear that pop, itll start snapping belts. i bought a complete ac unit(compressor, dryer, orifice tube, o-ring, etc) from ebay for like $225 and installed it myself. been wokring great and super quiet
 

tahoe7689

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mine used to clunk, it was the clutches going out. if it gets bad enough like mine did, everytime u hear that pop, itll start snapping belts. i bought a complete ac unit(compressor, dryer, orifice tube, o-ring, etc) from ebay for like $225 and installed it myself. been wokring great and super quiet

I did the exact same thing haha, its been about 2.5 years and everythings good
 

terryt

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I am sorry for the grave digging, but I have the same problem as the OP. I have replaced the tensioner/belt,etc. My AC cools great until around 1600 RPMs you get the slap. Having been off work 6 months due to my health I am trying to figure this out myself.

Sooo, If I had a friend to reclaim/pump down the system, I could replace the orifice tubes(if I knew where they where), and install the inline filter like the TSB says, recharge system and roll on right?

Anyone have the TSB where it shows what inline filter? Anyone that had a working AC except for the slap, do the TSB or orifice tubes and it work?

Thanks in advance for all the help.
 

ATL

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the orifice tube is inside the the ac line on the passenger side of the motor, there a connection in the line at the orifice so u can open the line to get to it. but im not sure what you plan to acheive with a new orifice tube and/or filter. i didnt read the entire thread, but if your compressor is making noise, theres not much more u can do than just replace it
 

D is for DENALI

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Crap, just started doing this on the way back from our recent trip.

I'm just going to take off the belt so the wife doesn't accidently destroy anything else until I get a new compressor..... sucks cause I just had the ac serviced and didn't make noise then... im assuming its stock (180k) so its time..

I wish it did this in october!!! :biggun:Lol

I didn't have much to trouble shoot, I had changed both serpentine and ac belt kits, ac is the only thing left not replaced... shat!!!
 
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D is for DENALI

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All the components are brand new...

After further inspection, I run the ac at idle, runs fine, so I had my kid get in the front and I jumped under the truck to see where the noise is coming from

It's coming from the tensioner at 1600 rpm, works fine at idle, but the tensioner is kinda jumping around and moving at idle, a light tugging action... then at 1600 rpm it bounces and squeals from this tugging..

Is this a bad, new tensioner, or is my problem still the compressor itself?

I have gates micro v serpentine kit and a gates ac belt kit with the gates hd green stripe belt... all installed in the last 3k miles...

It's the tensioner that's squealing and clacking or I'm mistaken and I'm watching the tensioner bounce around from the ac bearing not working properly.. I would love for it to be a bad tensioner!!! Lolz
 
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