Randeez 2012 Budget Yukon Denali Build (stick on hood scoops galore)

[swathdiver]

That crank will need some attention, looks like the metal moved and did not come off so it should still weigh the same. But, there's probably more than meets my eyes lookin' at pics over the internet!

A 405 would be cool and with the right machine work and not a ghetto build, you could run a 4" crank for at least 415 cubes.

Either way, get the best head studs you can if you don't want to run the TTY. I always ran the TTY bolts because they never failed me and I knew what their limit was which was 25-26 psi in 2nd and 3rd gear. I had friends blow head gaskets with ARP stud kits but they also used different head gaskets. I stuck with stock ones too and used that copper spray on them.

 

[Onebad1983]

This thing is taking your aboos very well I'd say!

 

[iamdub]

That crank will need some attention, looks like the metal moved and did not come off so it should still weigh the same. But, there's probably more than meets my eyes lookin' at pics over the internet!

A 405 would be cool and with the right machine work and not a ghetto build, you could run a 4" crank for at least 415 cubes.

Either way, get the best head studs you can if you don't want to run the TTY. I always ran the TTY bolts because they never failed me and I knew what their limit was which was 25-26 psi in 2nd and 3rd gear. I had friends blow head gaskets with ARP stud kits but they also used different head gaskets. I stuck with stock ones too and used that copper spray on them.

I mentioned the 405 cuz a 4" crank puts the wrist pin into the oil ring. Since he's boosted, I think the cubic inch "penalty" is worth the extra stability and lower risks. Besides, you know boost is the replacement for displacement.

 

[swathdiver]

I mentioned the 405 cuz a 4" crank puts the wrist pin into the oil ring. Since he's boosted, I think the cubic inch "penalty" is worth the extra stability and lower risks. Besides, you know boost is the replacement for displacement.

You're right about that and for longevity I'd do the same. But for a toy with good machining, he could go even larger. How about a 454 using an LSX block?

I was thinking of putting a 3.9 crank in mine someday but for all the costs involved, the L9H still looks more attractive.

 

[randeez]

dunno got a few emails out will see what comes back.

"the plan" was to rock this thing till prob the end of the year, jump into a 6bolt lsx/dart lsnext iron block - cubes not really to concerned with but no smaller than a 6.2, let the boost do the work.

would rather keep the aluminum 6.2 for a nice NA build in a much lighter car, mill down the heads, thinner head gasket, run compression up to 13+ to 1, 4" stroke.

other things on the agenda before this whole engine mess started:

bought a few things to start hydroboost conversion, the elusive pedal i found one out of a 2500 suburban that also comes with adjustable pedal height, grabbed the whole assembly hoping just the pedal can be swapped if not i'll make the whole assembly work.

finally shipping my magnafuel 750 pump, so i will get the fuel system up and going while its down,boost referenced fuel pressure regulator,new lines, tuck all the wiring, etc... will prob go to with holley hi ram and clean up under the hood

 

[Onebad1983]

I mentioned the 405 cuz a 4" crank puts the wrist pin into the oil ring. Since he's boosted, I think the cubic inch "penalty" is worth the extra stability and lower risks. Besides, you know boost is the replacement for displacement.

Only way boost replaces displacement is if there's a whole lot of it!

 

[randeez]

I mentioned the 405 cuz a 4" crank puts the wrist pin into the oil ring. Since he's boosted, I think the cubic inch "penalty" is worth the extra stability and lower risks. Besides, you know boost is the replacement for displacement.

pretty much spot on, id rather go smaller cube and keep the piston further in the cyl the whole time, all the same if i went to an aftermarket block and ran a 4.1+ stroke it would probably take anything i would ever throw at it... would just be nice to "never" have to worry about it

 

[randeez]

ripped a little more apart, cleaned up gasket surfaces, i drilled and tapped the lifter towers under the vlom cover to completely plug - except i used some tap i had for some reason and cant find imaginary set screws for it m8x.75, will probably redrill to a common set screw size. pulled the rod, filed the edges made from it off the crank (was hardly anything). she getting slapped back together boys sorta half assed, i'm going to check some weights and tolerances so not completely blind

ordered abunch of crap from summit: new gaskets head/pan/valley/water pump/front cover, head bolts just gm tty this go round, new oil pump/pickup oring - going to plug the bypass in the pan and the lifter towers mentioned above - hope to see some oil pressure this engine fresh from gm only made like 50psi cold idle/30psi hot idle - with some rpm it always showed 40-50psi, lately hot hot idle would be like 20psi. new rod/piston/bearing.

vvt cam phaser limiter - always kinda bugged me when i did the cam - texas speed said to use the old limited (pre-09) it restricts retard of the cam on pre-09 to 20*, but they always have an available 66* (iirc dont quote me i looked all this up one point in time) ie the block takes up 46* worth of rotation. when you use it in the 09+ , which only has 52* it limits you to 6* of cam retard. granted they probably test and know a whole lot more than i do but i have only seen more power and wider powerband retarding the cam as the rpm rise. right now i start retarding the cam 1* @3500rpm and continue so about every 400rpm - it's maxed out at 6* shortly after 6000rpm and starts to drop off I would like to start sooner and carry it out further. the limiter block for 09+ allows up to 20* - it is a smaller block. i probably wouldnt bother with it but i am going to be right there changing oil pump anyway, and cam retainer plate i reused my very low mileage one when i swapped cam but just another cheap part to swap to get oil pressure up hopefully.

i'll be happy if it lasts a few months

 

[PG01]

Hi randy......

 

[randeez]

sup

 

[PG01]

Lmao....

Im bored

 

[randeez]

yea , same here
electrical contractor for project ive been at for the past year and a half has just gave up it looks like, so i'm "stuck" in my engineers trailer all day.. ok gig though better than being stuck in office


the boredom makes it hard not to order parts

 

[PG01]

You put 40k on that motor already? Didn’t you just get it last year?

 

[randeez]

close to it was swapped by dealer just before it went out of powertrain warranty (before 60k miles) i pulled it out and did cam shortly after. has a little over 100k now.
commute about 55 miles each way to site im at now, when my other car got totalled i drove this for a few months till i got another adds up quick

 

[PG01]

Yeah, i bremember now...
tell me about them miles.. i went from 67k to 85k in a blink... 70 miles each way...

Half assedly looking for a new commuter...

 

[randeez]

i waited so long cause i was looking for the "right" c6, one finally popped up, price was right, in supersonic blue... went to dealership to buy wandered around lot for like an hour looking for the damn thing. someone beat me to it it was parked out front of the finance dept
went and picked up a plug in hybrid a few days later

 

[iamdub]

What oil pump you getting?

For reference, if it's even a comparison, my brother's 181K-mile LM7 averaged 20s-30s at hot idle, +/-40s when cruising. With a Melling M295HV swapped to the blue (lower pressure) spring, it stays at 40-45 cruising and hot idles at mid-30s. At 5,000-6,000 RPM, it'll hit ~70s. This is with cheap 10w-30 dino oil. When I first put it back together, I ran 15w-40 Diesel oil in it as part of the internal cleaning. The needle went past 80 at redline. I'm glad I swapped in that blue sprig before closing it all up! I was ready to do the @kbuskill resistor mod if it was gonna have too much pressure.

 

[randeez]

gm 12612289, says standard volumn/pressure but sposed to be the right one for my truck which should be HV? not to concerned with having 80psi just would like to improve it

 

[iamdub]

gm 12612289, says standard volumn/pressure but sposed to be the right one for my truck which should be HV? not to concerned with having 80psi just would like to improve it

Who knows?! Melling supplies GM for their oil pumps (or at least they did) and I know the AFM engines got HV pumps. I don't know what OEM number crosses with what Melling number or anything about your 6.2 with VVT. For an engine being raced, I like higher pressures for the upper-RPMs for more "cushioning", so I either shim the stock relief spring or swap out the spring depending on the motor (new, old, etc.). High pressure at any other time is just wasting power. Your original pump should've been fine, so there's gotta be something else for the lower pressures. It shouldn't have all that much wear at that mileage, either. Maybe the VVT engines normally run lower pressures? Just thinking out loud.

 

[swathdiver]

Who knows?!

The Melling M365 is the 12612289, High Volume Pump with Yellow Spring.