Questions regarding bose amp bypass

[chiefable]

I have a 06 Tahoe with the Bose package. I'm looking to upgrade my amp, specifically looking at the Focal AP 4340.

I have a few questions:
What bypass harness should I buy?
Will I need to upgrade the stock power wires (battery to amp)
Will my front tweeters still work with the new amp?
Will the center console subwoofer still work?
Should I upgrade the stock center console subwoofer to a midbass sub?

If anyone knows an answer to any one of these questions, I would greatly appreciate it!

Here are all my current audio-related upgrades:
Headunit: JVC KW-M750BT
Front Door Speakers: Kicker KS 6.5 Coaxial (100w RMS)
Rear Door Speakers: Kicker KS 5.25 Coaxial (75w RMS)
Subwoofers: Kicker Comp R Dual 12" (w/ 800x2 amp)

 

[Noregurts]

What bypass harness should I buy?
Get the cheap $13 harness at Wally World (no bypass ) clip in the harness and use the black , yellow and red wires . Connect em to the new head unit and don’t use any other wires .,run new speaker wire from the head unit to the new speakers in the doors . Done . No head ache . Don’t waste ur time , money or energy on t trying to get a 20 year old factory speaker to play .
Will I need to upgrade the stock power wires (battery to amp) get the 4 gauge amp install kit from skar . It’s the best cheap one
Will my front tweeters still work with the new amp? No don’t worry about em .
Will the center console subwoofer still work? No , but is it all that great to begin with . I know it’s a sub and it’s already there . But your not gonna hear it over the new subs
Should I upgrade the stock center console subwoofer to a midbass sub?no . I’d add a component set , 6.5 in the door and a tweeter in ur piller. I’ve got 2 6.5s in each door . Just get a 3/4 ring spacer and cut a hole in the plastic door panel next to the other speaker. And put that screen back on it.

 

[DolphineasMcGee]

I used the Metra GM11 harness, got it for <$50 on eBay. Retains chimes and keeps head unit on after keys removed. Is supposed to have steering controls but I couldn't get those working. There's a bunch of options depending on how much you want to keep. Your plan sounds good.

I used the wires in the factory harness to run from behind the head unit to the console, but running new wires wouldn't be much more work honestly. I had to replace one of them anyway because it wasn't working.

The factory wires for the bose amp are, I think 8 or 10 AWG so yes. There's a spot to run the wire through the firewall up and to the left of the steering wheel ingress looking in from the engine side. Use a firewall bushing.

The front tweeters are wired in parallel with the door speakers. I replaced them and ran new wire to the door speakers through the rubber door thingys.

I left the center console sub in but not connected. It seems like you have to remove both seats to remove the center console, which I thought was too much work, although it would be nice to have the space under there for other equipment.

I thought about putting a down-firing midbass in the center console, too. Maybe in the future, but I like your idea.

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