Question on a '97 rear hatch

[mranum]

The time came to look for a replacement for my cancer riddled '95 Tahoe. Came across a '97 Tahoe that lived in Arizona forever until a few months ago. Solid and clean and for $3500 it was a good buy. With anything that is that old its going to need some incidental parts. It has the rear hatch and tailgate, not barn doors.

The rear hatch actuator works but about 1 out of 5 tries it will actually unlock the window. All the parts have been lubed well in the past and seem to work freely it just doesn't seem to trip the latch. Does anyone know if there is an adjustment or is it more likely the actuator isn't cycling the correct stroke distance?

 

[drakon543]

typical problem there is the window catch bar will be bent slightly from being shut too aggressively. look at the catch bar it should be perfectly straight and if it has even a slight bend to it thats probably your problem. finding one can be a pita so your 2 other options are to remove it and straighten it if it is bent. your other option would be to replace the hatch seals. the newer seals will help push the window out so it has a better chance of releasing. probably something your going to want to do anyway as the rear hatches are also known to be leakers.

 

[mranum]

There is play in the window when it is closed("You can wiggle it in and out") so I'm sure I'll be looking at new seals. My old '95 with the barn doors always leaked. But that had been tweaked in the back by an impact so they never fit quite right. I'll be sure to look at that striker again and inspect. Thanks.

 

[mranum]

I was able to tinker with the window latch today and I think I got it fixed. Combination of a couple things. While the latch itself was well oiled it still would stick closed periodically. Flushed it well with some PB Blaster and after some minor coaxing it was all freed up. I suspect our cold temps weren't helping the situation with some gummed up oil in the works.

The main culprit appeared to be the strike bar. While it does have a slight bend in it, the main problem was that when it slid closed it was rubbing the upper catch side of the latch fairly hard. I lowered the bar about an 1/8". Works perfect now. When the release it tripped the window moves out about a 1/4". Tried it with the key fob and dash release about 20 times and never failed so I'd say its fixed.

 

[drakon543]

I was able to tinker with the window latch today and I think I got it fixed. Combination of a couple things. While the latch itself was well oiled it still would stick closed periodically. Flushed it well with some PB Blaster and after some minor coaxing it was all freed up. I suspect our cold temps weren't helping the situation with some gummed up oil in the works.

The main culprit appeared to be the strike bar. While it does have a slight bend in it, the main problem was that when it slid closed it was rubbing the upper catch side of the latch fairly hard. I lowered the bar about an 1/8". Works perfect now. When the release it tripped the window moves out about a 1/4". Tried it with the key fob and dash release about 20 times and never failed so I'd say its fixed.

nice sounds like it was originally being lubricated with the incorrect lubricant. the best lubricant is a silicone dry lube for that type of stuff. age and regular road dirt/dust will be like a magnet to those latches with pb blaster and wd 40. get some electrical contact cleaner and spray down into the latch and wash the rest of the penetrating oil out. then spray it down with dry lube.

 

[mranum]

Yup good advice especially since I'm in dirt road country. Brake cleaner is what I wanted from the start but was out of, next best thing was PB. Good thing I got it fixed, loaded a replacement dash for it in the back this morning. Would have been a bear getting it through the side door. The desert sun has ruined the plastic dash and found a different one. Now that looks like quite a project!