Power steering noise? Orr rack and pinion??

[Atrevino0497]

Can anyone help me figure out what’s the cause of my power noise? Steering shaft is tight, took the boot off and greased it, flushed the system, no leaks.

Quiet when driving around town but Gets louder if I’m driving long distances on the interstate. Pump or rack??

Here’s a link to my video

Power steering

This is "Power steering" by Austin Trevino on Vimeo, the home for high quality videos and the people who love them.

vimeo.com

 

[Joseph Garcia]

Save yourself a lot of time here. I recommend that you take the truck to a trusted local repair shop, and get the truck on a lift with the wheels off the ground and with someone inside the truck. Then the Mechanic underneath the truck can go around, with a stethoscope if necessary, and locate the source of the noise.

Then, once identified, you can decide if you just want to pay the Mechanic for his diagnostic time, and then fix the issue yourself.

 

[Atrevino0497]

Save yourself a lot of time here. I recommend that you take the truck to a trusted local repair shop, and get the truck on a lift with the wheels off the ground and with someone inside the truck. Then the Mechanic underneath the truck can go around, with a stethoscope if necessary, and locate the source of the noise.

Then, once identified, you can decide if you just want to pay the Mechanic for his diagnostic time, and then fix the issue yourself.

I appreciate your input, I’m capable of doing the inspection myself. I just thought that possibly someone on here would maybe have a little more insight on something like this such as a personal experience or if it may be a common issue.

I was an hour and a half from home visiting my aunt at home who is on hospice when I took this video and uploaded it.

I’m planning on next weekend to mark and disconnect the steering shaft from the rack to see if I can isolate and determine if its column related or rack related. being extra careful of not turning the steering wheel too much to avoid damaging the clock spring. Then I have an old piece of steering shaft that I can slip on the gear and turn with a vice while listening through my stethoscope.

I’m leading towards the hydraulic side since it seems to be heat related and get louder the longer I drive and quiets down or goes away once it cools off some

 

[mikez71]

You can put the seatbelt through the steering wheel to make sure you don't accidentally spin it.

Does it sound like micro fluid cavitation? It almost sounds like a squeek in the video.
Do you feel it through the steering wheel?

 

[Atrevino0497]

You can put the seatbelt through the steering wheel to make sure you don't accidentally spin it.

Does it sound like micro fluid cavitation? It almost sounds like a squeek in the video.
Do you feel it through the steering wheel?

It’s not a squeak. It’s a hydraulic noise for sure , the best way I can describe the sound. Is a like a whining/winding and a zipper together. I do feel it pulsating/vibrates a little when the noise is being made. Doesn’t happen unless it’s been warmed up and driven for some time.

I do notice when turning at parking lot speeds there’s no returnability. When making a left hand turn the steering wheel returns to 11 o’clock position and right hand turns at 1 o’clock position. Then I have to guide the wheel to the top or it’ll keep turning.

The pump itself doesn’t make any noise except if I were turn to full lock and get a chirp which is normal and I don’t usually do that anyways. Other than that it’s quiet. The steering is smooth and not stiff

I found some videos similar to the noise but they were all electric steering boxes. And theirs ended up needing to be replaced.

 

[mikez71]

Does sound like a rack issue...

 

[Atrevino0497]

Does sound like a rack issue...

That’s honestly what I’m thinking also, when it does make noise it’s only when turning of the wheel. I could be driving straight and accelerating and no noise. And possibly the noise I’m hearing under the dash when turning the wheel is the sound traveling through the intermediate shaft.

I’m going to get it up on my jack stands this Friday to get a closer view. If the bushings/boots are still good and it’s sturdy I’ll ride it out until it starts making more audible noises or leaks. It could probably last a long time like this. And if/when it needs replacing, I’ll opt to do the pump and hoses at the same time. Less things to worry about later on.

She’s pushing 164k miles, once she quits I’m going to buy a new vehicle. I live in Minnesota, things are starting to rust and wear out. I’ve had a long journey with her so far and she’s been good to me. After suspension, the trans will be the next thing. The converter has been shuttering for the last 3 years and hasn’t gotten worse, I can take it in any time I want. I’m just milking every mile I can get.

 

[alvocado]

Testing on jack stands with someone in the truck turning the wheel while you inspect outside and below should help isolate the source.

One note on milking the trans if you know it's shuddering: I did that and went from a lower cost torque converter replacement to a full trans rebuild with metal blown through my entire system because I left a shudder go too long. I'd say the price for the latter is 3x just paying for a torque converter swap and you can have a shop do the rear main seal while the trans is out. It's a doable DIY if you have the patience, tools, space and back stamina.

My torque converter that was shuddering and pushed over the edge:

 

[Atrevino0497]

Testing on jack stands with someone in the truck turning the wheel while you inspect outside and below should help isolate the source.

One note on milking the trans if you know it's shuddering: I did that and went from a lower cost torque converter replacement to a full trans rebuild with metal blown through my entire system because I left a shudder go too long. I'd say the price for the latter is 3x just paying for a torque converter swap and you can have a shop do the rear main seal while the trans is out. It's a doable DIY if you have the patience, tools, space and back stamina.

My torque converter that was shuddering and pushed over the edge:
View attachment 468477

Im planning on the taking it in locally for a full rebuild next summer with a new cooler and lines during shut down at my job. I was quoted $4500 out the door. Since the shop specializes in transmissions. I’m going to ask if they could call me while it’s out and I’ll replace the seal myself if they would allow it. I have 0 leaks right now luckily

I am however debating to remove the pan and inspect, because curiosity is killing the cat. Would it do more harm than good at this time to check and replace filter?

I’m waiting on some more parts to come in and I can give my suspension a refreshing. And decided to do fluids since I’m already at it. My steering noise has gotten better id say. I did the flush, and then greased up everything really good once again and the noise is still there but only very very sligtly, I’d say 90% better. I’m going to roll with it for now and see what happens.

 

[alvocado]

I don’t see any harm in dropping the pan for a fluid change. Clean fluid won’t help the torque converter which is prone to failure due to poor design but it will help the rest of the trans.

 

[alvocado]

One thing to consider on the rear main seal replacement: if the shop has the transmission out, it will take them no more than 20 minutes to replace the RMS and it might just be worth paying them to do it. I would strongly suggest replacing the entire rear cover as the cover flange leaks as much if not more than the main seal. I bought a GM cover which came with the cover gasket, main seal plus new bolts for around $60.

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[Atrevino0497]

One thing to consider on the rear main seal replacement: if the shop has the transmission out, it will take them no more than 20 minutes to replace the RMS and it might just be worth paying them to do it. I would strongly suggest replacing the entire rear cover as the cover flange leaks as much if not more than the main seal. I bought a GM cover which came with the cover gasket, main seal plus new bolts for around $60.

Amazon.com: GM Genuine Parts 12639250 LS Rear Block Cover : Automotive

Buy GM Genuine Parts 12639250 LS Rear Block Cover: Covers - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

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Definitely without a doubt, I just want to see what the magnet looks like out of curiosity. I wouldn’t do it strictly for “fixing”the torque converter as it’s already mechanically failing and would be a waste of time, I just didn’t know if the trans would act up and start slipping if there is current particles present and I change the fluid. I’ll take a peek and see. I changed the fluid last 33k miles ago, bought the wrong filter for it and put the old one back in as she’s my only vehicle. Who knows, maybe if there’s no particles in the pan and it’s acting the way it is because maybe it just needs a new filter. I’ll try it out and get back with an update.

With 164k miles I would suspect it’s just that time for an overhaul.

Agreed, a whole new cover gasket and bolts is the extra reassurance of no possible leaks

 

[Atrevino0497]

I don’t see any harm in dropping the pan for a fluid change. Clean fluid won’t help the torque converter which is prone to failure due to poor design but it will help the rest of the trans.

Well it has been a busy weekend for me. With changing most of the suspension in the front and rear. As well as pads and rotors. I am beat and so sore.

I changed out the fluid and filter. 0 debris in the pan, I was expecting there to be some. The fluid was a dark red almost brown which is normal for 35k miles. I put her back together after wiping the pan and now just watch for leaks at the pan and see if theres an improvement in driving.