Power Steering Pain

[PopoPackage2011]

Hey guys, recently did my power steering pump and hoses, still seeing a leak. Its coming from where the shaft comes down into the rack. Am I 100% in need of a rack and pinion replacement or is this leaking seal pictured below serviceable?

Thanks

Edit: I know for a fact its not the high pressure lines

 

[Geotrash]

Hey guys, recently did my power steering pump and hoses, still seeing a leak. Its coming from where the shaft comes down into the rack. Am I 100% in need of a rack and pinion replacement or is this leaking seal pictured below serviceable?

Thanks

Edit: I know for a fact its not the high pressure lines

View attachment 458488

Yup, looks like the rack to me. Had the same thing happen on my '07 and I replaced it with a reman which has been fine for a few years now. But the good news is that they now make *new* replacement racks for about the same price as a reman - you can get them on Rock Auto.

 

[alvocado]

I replaced my rack last month after seeing a leak while doing an oil pan gasket. I picked up a Vision-OE reman from a local parts supplier (non-chain) for $290 with a 3 year warranty.

 

[PopoPackage2011]

I replaced my rack last month after seeing a leak while doing an oil pan gasket. I picked up a Vision-OE reman from a local parts supplier (non-chain) for $290 with a 3 year warranty.

Did you do it yourself? Doing a rack on a jack and stands seems like i'd be on my back more than Monica Lewinsky.

 

[alvocado]

Did you do it yourself? Doing a rack on a jack and stands seems like i'd be on my back more than Monica Lewinsky.

Yes, I replaced it and I would rate it as a pretty easy repair for anyone with reasonable mechanical skills. I was replacing the oil pan gasket which required dropping the front differential and unbolting the rack from the frame so I was already in there. There is good access and room under the front with the truck on stands and the forward plastic shield/skid plate off. The procedure is pretty straightforward: disconnect the outer tie rods (which may be a little frozen or rusty), disconnect your fluid lines, disconnect lower steering shaft and unbolt from the frame. To make sure you install with a centered steering wheel, count the number of rotations from full stop to full stop, divide in half and turn that many rotations to get the rack in a straight forward position. Lock your steering wheel with the seat belt looped through to ensure it doesn't move during the repair.

I bought new pressure and return lines which is recommended to avoid contaminating the new rack. It's recommended that you get an alignment afterwards but you can mark your inner tie rod nut and get the new rack on pretty close to the same position, assuming it was aligned when you started. Fill up the fluid, bleed the system, and your set.

 

[89Suburban]

Yes, I replaced it and I would rate it as a pretty easy repair for anyone with reasonable mechanical skills. I was replacing the oil pan gasket which required dropping the front differential and unbolting the rack from the frame so I was already in there. There is good access and room under the front with the truck on stands and the forward plastic shield/skid plate off. The procedure is pretty straightforward: disconnect the outer tie rods (which may be a little frozen or rusty), disconnect your fluid lines, disconnect lower steering shaft and unbolt from the frame. To make sure you install with a centered steering wheel, count the number of rotations from full stop to full stop, divide in half and turn that many rotations to get the rack in a straight forward position. Lock your steering wheel with the seat belt looped through to ensure it doesn't move during the repair.

I bought new pressure and return lines which is recommended to avoid contaminating the new rack. It's recommended that you get an alignment afterwards but you can mark your inner tie rod nut and get the new rack on pretty close to the same position, assuming it was aligned when you started. Fill up the fluid, bleed the system, and your set.

I am sure you get a fluid shower while under there doing this correct?

 

[alpha_omega]

Hey guys, recently did my power steering pump and hoses, still seeing a leak. Its coming from where the shaft comes down into the rack. Am I 100% in need of a rack and pinion replacement or is this leaking seal pictured below serviceable?

Thanks

Edit: I know for a fact its not the high pressure lines

It’s not uncommon for them to leak. I’m guessing you replaced the gaskets inside the rack where the hard lines connect?

If so, are you 100% sure that you got ALL of the old material out?

Also, are you 100% sure that the new seals were properly seated (usually be using an 8mm socket to set them deep enough).

Doing this ensure the lines seat properly. Most times you need to physically set the top line to prevent the plate on the bottom line from flexing while installing the hold down bolt. Make sure to use some blue loctite on that 11mm bolt.

If you don’t go with GM, take a look at Plews and Edelmann. They have top notch customer service and gear (hoses, rack and pinion, pump…etc).

 

[alpha_omega]

I am sure you get a fluid shower while under there doing this correct?

If you draw all of the old fluid out first, it’s not too bad. Just a little dribble in the lines.

If you don’t replace the entire system, you will want to ensure that a proper flush is done and then some. Just because there could be sediment in the old rack and in the cooler.

 

[alvocado]

I am sure you get a fluid shower while under there doing this correct?

Not if you disconnect the lines first and drain the fluid. You can do that from the top with a pan below.

 

[alvocado]

It’s not uncommon for them to leak. I’m guessing you replaced the gaskets inside the rack where the hard lines connect?

If so, are you 100% sure that you got ALL of the old material out?

Also, are you 100% sure that the new seals were properly seated (usually be using an 8mm socket to set them deep enough).

Doing this ensure the lines seat properly. Most times you need to physically set the top line to prevent the plate on the bottom line from flexing while installing the hold down bolt. Make sure to use some blue loctite on that 11mm bolt.

If you don’t go with GM, take a look at Plews and Edelmann. They have top notch customer service and gear (hoses, rack and pinion, pump…etc).

I over simplified the steps so good builds on the procedure. Those cap seals on the lines are critical to get seated correctly. I've done lines several times and learned the hard way. There's a thorough DIY video from TRQ that covers all the details if the OP decides to tackle the job.

 

[alpha_omega]

I over simplified the steps so good builds on the procedure. Those cap seals on the lines are critical to get seated correctly. I've done lines several times and learned the hard way. There's a thorough DIY video from TRQ that covers all the details if the OP decides to tackle the job.

My mistake. I thought that’s who I was replying to.

 

[rdezs]

Did you do it yourself? Doing a rack on a jack and stands seems like i'd be on my back more than Monica Lewinsky.

Uh.... Wasn't she on her knees under the oval office desk? LMAO

 

[PopoPackage2011]

It’s not uncommon for them to leak. I’m guessing you replaced the gaskets inside the rack where the hard lines connect?

If so, are you 100% sure that you got ALL of the old material out?

Also, are you 100% sure that the new seals were properly seated (usually be using an 8mm socket to set them deep enough).

Doing this ensure the lines seat properly. Most times you need to physically set the top line to prevent the plate on the bottom line from flexing while installing the hold down bolt. Make sure to use some blue loctite on that 11mm bolt.

If you don’t go with GM, take a look at Plews and Edelmann. They have top notch customer service and gear (hoses, rack and pinion, pump…etc).

I know its not the seals on the lines. I cleaned everything up and watched it piss from the round seal where shaft goes into rack... Ive just been adding fluid to be honest, can get decent mileage without draining out reservoir. Bad bad bad but gotta get to work

 

[rdezs]

I really, really, really hate stop leak products. But if you need it for transportation and can't get to it right away, it probably can't hurt. The power steering stop leak products I assume swell up the seals a little bit. Probably couldn't hurt anything at this point. Less risk than running the pump low?

 

[alpha_omega]

I know its not the seals on the lines. I cleaned everything up and watched it piss from the round seal where shaft goes into rack... Ive just been adding fluid to be honest, can get decent mileage without draining out reservoir. Bad bad bad but gotta get to work

It’s not uncommon for some of the old seal to be left inside the rack when replacing the seals. You really need a good light and a pick to ensure you get them cleaned out. Then soak the new ones prior to install. Use a 5/16 or 8mm (maybe a 10mm) to set the new ones to depth.

Granted your rack could be totally shot, but just trying to be hopeful for you prior to throwing new parts at it.

 

[alpha_omega]

I really, really, really hate stop leak products. But if you need it for transportation and can't get to it right away, it probably can't hurt. The power steering stop leak products I assume swell up the seals a little bit. Probably couldn't hurt anything at this point. Less risk than running the pump low?

Unless the seal isn’t seated properly or the new one is smashed on top of some old material.

 

[PopoPackage2011]

It’s not uncommon for some of the old seal to be left inside the rack when replacing the seals. You really need a good light and a pick to ensure you get them cleaned out. Then soak the new ones prior to install. Use a 5/16 or 8mm (maybe a 10mm) to set the new ones to depth.

Granted your rack could be totally shot, but just trying to be hopeful for you prior to throwing new parts at it.

Its to the point where now im suddenly not losing fluid but its as if I dont have power steering in certain slow parking lot turns. I gotta decide to keep this thing or not (its real beat up looking and takes in water, was in 2 wrecks, was decomissioned and probably maintained horribly) I got it for 5K a few years back at like 130K miles, and its been one thing after another pretty rapidly since. I only put 20K miles on it.

Any idea what a shop would charge for a rack install?

 

[alpha_omega]

Its to the point where now im suddenly not losing fluid but its as if I dont have power steering in certain slow parking lot turns. I gotta decide to keep this thing or not (its real beat up looking and takes in water, was in 2 wrecks, was decomissioned and probably maintained horribly) I got it for 5K a few years back at like 130K miles, and its been one thing after another pretty rapidly since. I only put 20K miles on it.

Any idea what a shop would charge for a rack install?

From the sounds of it, probably more than you want to pay. Might be time to sell/trade it for something a little less abused. Find yourself one that’s been well maintained (or at least much better than your current one).

I did the rack and pinion myself, so I can’t say for sure what they would charge. I know a buddy of mine just paid over $1000 for pads and rotors on a 2013. That’s parts and install, but still was more than I expected.

 

[OBSandaNNBS]

Its to the point where now im suddenly not losing fluid but its as if I dont have power steering in certain slow parking lot turns. I gotta decide to keep this thing or not (its real beat up looking and takes in water, was in 2 wrecks, was decomissioned and probably maintained horribly) I got it for 5K a few years back at like 130K miles, and its been one thing after another pretty rapidly since. I only put 20K miles on it.

Any idea what a shop would charge for a rack install?

Are you in the great lakes region?

 

[alvocado]

Here's the DIY video I referenced earlier:

Replacing the rack is a very manageable repair for a diyer with the front on ramps or jack stands. I bought a rebuilt Vision OE rack for just under $300. It's recommended to replace your lines but if you're on a budget, start with the rack and perform a thorough fluid flush. If you keep your old lines, you'll need to buy a pack of cap seals to reinstall the line into the new rack.