Parasitic Draw Test

[Larry07Yukon]

I've been having issues with my 07 Yukon Denali not starting over the past year. The battery is supposed to be a year old and tested fine when Advance Auto tested. Alternator also tested good.

I do have a 4.5A draw (huge) from the test at Advance Auto and when I tested with my own voltmeter.

Problem though is as I try to locate the drain, the car alarm goes off (horn beeping).
(neg battery cable disconnected, red voltmeter on the negative cable, black voltmeter on the neg post, after 10-15 seconds it activates the horn)

With the hood open, I closed all the doors, locked the car, and depressed the hood switch on the latch. Came back several hours later and the horn still keeps going off after 10-15 seconds

What is going on? I need to check each fuse but the horn and possible lights are going off.

 

[08grey]

Factory alarm?

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

 

[Larry07Yukon]

Factory alarm?

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

Yes, the car is pretty much stock

 

[02Lightning]

I was testing mine a while back because I thought I had an issue. It was drawing 4.5 amps at first when I first hooked the meter up, and then the computers started shutting down, and then it was pulling .0 something after that. I did have some instances when hooking the meter up, the alarm started going off. Can you just hit the unlock button on your key fob and keep testing?

 

[02Lightning]

After re-reading your post. Is the meter pulling 4.5 amps up to the point the alarm goes off? I’ve hooked the battery up before and the alarm instantly goes off. Kind of sounds like a loose connecting somewhere. Can you make the alarm go off with the battery hooked up, by shaking wires or the fuse box? My problem ended up being a bad battery.

 

[Larry07Yukon]

After re-reading your post. Is the meter pulling 4.5 amps up to the point the alarm goes off? I’ve hooked the battery up before and the alarm instantly goes off. Kind of sounds like a loose connecting somewhere. Can you make the alarm go off with the battery hooked up, by shaking wires or the fuse box? My problem ended up being a bad battery.

I'm not sure what the meter is pulling after the alarm goes off, I pulled it off in fear of damaging something. The alarm also turned off.

When I reapplied the negative cable, the alarm started again and I turned it off with the key.

Once the neg cable is clamped on the neg terminal, I didn't have any issued with the alarm going off.

 

[Larry07Yukon]

I was testing mine a while back because I thought I had an issue. It was drawing 4.5 amps at first when I first hooked the meter up, and then the computers started shutting down, and then it was pulling .0 something after that. I did have some instances when hooking the meter up, the alarm started going off. Can you just hit the unlock button on your key fob and keep testing?

I thought the same thing, hopefully the computer shut down and I would be pulling less than 50MA. But I let the car sit overnight, roughly 9 hours and it was pulling 4.5A still

 

[02Lightning]

So it was still pulling 4.5A with the meter still hooked up all night? If so, can you start pulling fuses at that point and tell when the amps drop?

 

[Larry07Yukon]

So it was still pulling 4.5A with the meter still hooked up all night? If so, can you start pulling fuses at that point and tell when the amps drop?

I didn't have the meter hooked up all night, my neighbors might have killed me with the horn presumably going off all night too
Just the neg cable disconnected overnight

 

[02Lightning]

Ok, well that makes sense. As soon as you hook up the meter in between the battery and disconnected cable, it’s going to pull 4.5A no matter how long you let it sit, because all the computers are starting up for the first time. Then all the computers start to go to sleep and the amps should drop to .0 something. Seems like my amps would drop after about 3 min. Can you pull the relays for the lights and horn and then test?