SunlitComet
OBS Jedi-Do Good
Good to hear.
Overheating after New Intake gaskets..?
- Thread starter BattelWagun
- Start date
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BattelWagun
Full Access Member
Thanks! 
I bought an autometer temp gauge to install, just dont know where to put it yet....
Now I have a new issue though....
It seems like when the motor is under load(ie-wheels at full lock and backing into my garage which is uphill slightly) it sputters and I hear puffing noise like an old locomotive chugging. Everytime it makes that noise, the motor basically loses power for a split second. It also happens when Im at a full stop in drive, with the a/c on. EGR gasket maybe? Im clueless now
I bought an autometer temp gauge to install, just dont know where to put it yet....Now I have a new issue though....
It seems like when the motor is under load(ie-wheels at full lock and backing into my garage which is uphill slightly) it sputters and I hear puffing noise like an old locomotive chugging. Everytime it makes that noise, the motor basically loses power for a split second. It also happens when Im at a full stop in drive, with the a/c on. EGR gasket maybe? Im clueless now
SunlitComet
OBS Jedi-Do Good
Maybe dirty or sticky IAC. It play a part in all that but it does sound like it's working to respond to changes. Perhaps the passages are dirty. go ahead and clean the egr valve if you have never done it before.
Btw, Gauge pod on the pillar for the meter. Get a three pod unit so you can justify the need to buy two more .
---------- Post added at 12:06 AM ---------- Previous post was at 12:06 AM ----------
You used the temp sensor that came with new meter right?
Btw, Gauge pod on the pillar for the meter. Get a three pod unit so you can justify the need to buy two more .
---------- Post added at 12:06 AM ---------- Previous post was at 12:06 AM ----------
You used the temp sensor that came with new meter right?
BattelWagun
Full Access Member
You see, I wanted to clean the IAC, but the port it was in is very tiny and awkwards, and the sensor itself looked too sensitive. Illl go ahead and clean that and the EGR, and replace the EGR gasket today.
You're right about the pod, I wouldnt mind a trans temp and an intake vacuum gauge
as for the temp sender with the new gauge, i really dont wanna use the new sender because:
1- I'm not sure if the dapters it came with will fit the block
2- I just flushed my coolant
3- i'm quite neurotic now about air pockets and my engine overheating after the last two weeks...
I got me a nice gauge too! http://www.autometer.com/cat_gaugedetail.aspx?gid=3571&sid=61
You're right about the pod, I wouldnt mind a trans temp and an intake vacuum gauge
as for the temp sender with the new gauge, i really dont wanna use the new sender because:
1- I'm not sure if the dapters it came with will fit the block
2- I just flushed my coolant
3- i'm quite neurotic now about air pockets and my engine overheating after the last two weeks...
I got me a nice gauge too! http://www.autometer.com/cat_gaugedetail.aspx?gid=3571&sid=61
Last edited:
SunlitComet
OBS Jedi-Do Good
Mechanical huh. Thought you might have gone for an electric gauge instead. Concerned how a electrical sender is going to work with a mechanical gauge though
I just wanted to make sure the original sender electric specs line of with The new meter for an accurate reading.
You will get over the neurotics. If you are worried about opening up again just top it off like I mentioned before and the system will take care of the rest without incident.
I just wanted to make sure the original sender electric specs line of with The new meter for an accurate reading.
You will get over the neurotics. If you are worried about opening up again just top it off like I mentioned before and the system will take care of the rest without incident.
BattelWagun
Full Access Member
Mechanical huh. Thought you might have gone for an electric gauge instead. Concerned how a electrical sender is going to work with a mechanical gauge though
I just wanted to make sure the original sender electric specs line of with The new meter for an accurate reading.
Wait, I thought the autometer was the same as the dash gauge? They both have a brass sender with only 1 wire, not a 2 wire plug like an electrical unit....
As for the specs, I'm going to wire it up with my stock sender and then compare that reading to either my infra-red temp meter that I have, or what the computer is saying and see how close it is. If I have to change it I will.
SunlitComet
OBS Jedi-Do Good
Whoa, If you are talking about the two wire temp gauge that just happens to be in front of the thermo housing, that is the temp sender for the computer the one for the dash is on the left side cylinder head with one wire above the above the spark plugs. The two wire sensor are mainly for the computers use.
the gauge you posted was for a mechanical type unit that uses capillary tubing not electrical sensor like we have in the dash now. Perhaps you just got the wrong link?
Thermometer electric gauges like one in dash use a one wire unit. But they may have temperature to resistance differences from one type of sensor to another. For example/ GM sensor Might be 0-90 from 100-260 degrees where a ford sensor might go 50-100 ohms for same temp range. Autometer would specify what the range is of the one they include. Just want it to go right the first time for you. As I said the link you posted was for a mechanical unit that does not require electricity to run(except for a back light. Sorry if I have confused you.
---------- Post added at 10:28 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:25 PM ----------
Just noticed that the electrical gauge equivalent you posted does actually uses a two wire sensor so you may just be better off running new wire pair to the cylinder head..
http://www.autometer.com/cat_gaugedetail.aspx?gid=3581&sid=61
the gauge you posted was for a mechanical type unit that uses capillary tubing not electrical sensor like we have in the dash now. Perhaps you just got the wrong link?
Thermometer electric gauges like one in dash use a one wire unit. But they may have temperature to resistance differences from one type of sensor to another. For example/ GM sensor Might be 0-90 from 100-260 degrees where a ford sensor might go 50-100 ohms for same temp range. Autometer would specify what the range is of the one they include. Just want it to go right the first time for you. As I said the link you posted was for a mechanical unit that does not require electricity to run(except for a back light. Sorry if I have confused you.
---------- Post added at 10:28 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:25 PM ----------
Just noticed that the electrical gauge equivalent you posted does actually uses a two wire sensor so you may just be better off running new wire pair to the cylinder head..
http://www.autometer.com/cat_gaugedetail.aspx?gid=3581&sid=61
BattelWagun
Full Access Member
oopsy, I posted the wrong link haha...
here it is: http://www.autometer.com/cat_gaugedetail.aspx?gid=3113&sid=11
It's a short sweep electric gauge with a 1 wire sender, I got it because it had the same type of sensor as my stocker. I may try to install it today, unless my inner pyro comes out of course...
here it is: http://www.autometer.com/cat_gaugedetail.aspx?gid=3113&sid=11
It's a short sweep electric gauge with a 1 wire sender, I got it because it had the same type of sensor as my stocker. I may try to install it today, unless my inner pyro comes out of course...
SunlitComet
OBS Jedi-Do Good
Cool, thought you would gone for this one. It does have a two wire sender but has programmable warning and memory to keep the paranoia down.
---------- Post added at 02:12 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:07 PM ----------
It flashes and could even trigger some relays for extra fans if you wanted.
---------- Post added at 02:12 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:07 PM ----------
It flashes and could even trigger some relays for extra fans if you wanted.
BattelWagun
Full Access Member
You know, now that you show that to me I may have to change my choice of gauges. I've also decided on a three gauge pillar mount. I'm thinking water temp, intake vacuum, and either trans temp or fuel ratio...
Also, I'm wondering if that sender I bought just isn't the right one. The gauge reads consistently now that I'm closely observing it. It'll go to 240 and then fluctuate as the thermostat operates. It's almost as if it is just shifted to the right. I'm gonna get an ac deco sender and see what happens...
Sent from my iPod touch using Tapatalk
Also, I'm wondering if that sender I bought just isn't the right one. The gauge reads consistently now that I'm closely observing it. It'll go to 240 and then fluctuate as the thermostat operates. It's almost as if it is just shifted to the right. I'm gonna get an ac deco sender and see what happens...
Sent from my iPod touch using Tapatalk
