Overheating after New Intake gaskets..?

[retorq]

Still out there a little. So for my '96 vortec I need which one? the first one you posted or the one I posted because when I look at a replacement manifold I only see 2 square cut outs in the center of each side and the gasket has three squares Or Am i going to have to tear it down first. Kinda wanted to get everything on hand first.

The one you posted are the better option. I ran those on my Vortec headed old school small block Camaro and I run them on my Vortec headed TBI Tahoe. The three big holes you are referring too go absolutely no where ... they don't do anything.

That is a closer up shot of a reusable gasket on a Vortec head ...

 

[BattelWagun]

I wish my heads looked like that!

Yup, they're all right. Our vortecs have 6 ports on each side. The three in the middle aren't there so it doesn't really matter what gaskets you use as far as that goes.

 

[SunlitComet]

The set here I am getting has the one with two small holes but I should still be good right?

Just don't want screw it up. I need to get this SUV on the road and get back to work. Of course I won't know the extent of damage to the engine until I get it apart. My head and manifold bolts will be replaced to per the service manual. I hope for me it was a head gasket that popped.

 

[BattelWagun]

Don't worry you'll be fine, those are exactly the same as the ones I installed. They will work just fine. That's a pretty extensive kit! Reminds me I never replaced my EGR gasket...


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[retorq]

That kit looks good to me. Stock rebuild or are you hopping it up??

 

[BattelWagun]

I'd highly suggest it, you'll be in there anyways!

 

[SunlitComet]

A day after a put on a k&n fipk 57-3013-2, I went to go find a long road near a dealer lot to record some short runs on my laptop. My helper started the data recorder and I floored it. Before we reach the half way point it started knocking. When I came to a stop I had misfire's happening. Further testing revealed high misfire rates on 4 and 6. Compression testing revealed about 2-3 psi in each. a few days later For about 5 minutes there was white and blue smoke. It has not done it since but the misfiring is still there. I boroscoped it and removed the valve cover for a upper valvetrain inspection. Nothing was broken on top and the valves have regular activity. The boroscope showed a black shiny film on piston top and spark plug for number 4 an not anything on 6. As far as I can tell the are intact but one is dirty with the same film. I still see crosshatching on the walls which gave me the thought that someone has touch this engine once already and goofed something but I cannot confirm that yet. There is still no obvious evidence of fluid cross contamination. I had also just finished flushing out my cooling system. At this time I believe that during the first run that a combination of chamber pressure and perhaps a leaking valve seal got to be to much and pushed the head gasket towards number 6. I will be tearing the top end down next week for inspection and repairs. I will actually take both heads off get them inspected and put on a new gasket set with new head and manifold bolts. I would like to think it is just miles and age. However besides tarnishing inside valve cover and the junk I cleaned out during the spider upgrade the engine head looks clean of deposits other then just varnish. I will know next week for sure when I can see it with my own eyes and not thru a camera. I was two ball joints away form being back on the road.

---------- Post added at 09:11 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:47 PM ----------

I'd highly suggest it, you'll be in there anyways!

I would like to do something but don't know what is street legal for califonia and not sure if I could swing it any way. Thought I saw something for 1.52 rockers from compcams that was legal for about $180 but I thought the 350 already had that ratio. There were claiming about 10-20 hp.

 

[retorq]

If you are going to hop it up any I would suggest the FelPro 1003 head gasket. It has some holes smaller in one area and bigger in another, basically lets more coolant thru the center of the head where the two exhaust port are close to each other and restricts flow on the upper/outter areas where you don't need as much ... I also thought my engine was rebuilt at one time, I'm not so sure though .. when I pulled my top end I could see cross hatch pattern still too.

 

[SunlitComet]

I see those at oreily's. It is listed as high performance engine only and federal mogul site will not list is as an option for the truck so I will probably stick wit the kit I listed above. I am sure the sever duty perma-torques will be good enough. What else could I do on the top that would be legal.


Battlewagun, your Tahoe chill out yet?

 

[BattelWagun]

Yeah its chilled now. I spent a good two days trying to figure it out and anded up realizing that my gauge cluster is bad...

At first I definitely had air in there but I got it professionally flushed and it still was 'overheating' so I actually measured the temp ant multiple points on the engine and it was a constant ~200º (a scanner hooked up to the computer was saying a constant 194º)

 

[SunlitComet]

Good to hear.

 

[BattelWagun]

Thanks! I bought an autometer temp gauge to install, just dont know where to put it yet....

Now I have a new issue though....
It seems like when the motor is under load(ie-wheels at full lock and backing into my garage which is uphill slightly) it sputters and I hear puffing noise like an old locomotive chugging. Everytime it makes that noise, the motor basically loses power for a split second. It also happens when Im at a full stop in drive, with the a/c on. EGR gasket maybe? Im clueless now

 

[SunlitComet]

Maybe dirty or sticky IAC. It play a part in all that but it does sound like it's working to respond to changes. Perhaps the passages are dirty. go ahead and clean the egr valve if you have never done it before.

Btw, Gauge pod on the pillar for the meter. Get a three pod unit so you can justify the need to buy two more .

---------- Post added at 12:06 AM ---------- Previous post was at 12:06 AM ----------

You used the temp sensor that came with new meter right?

 

[BattelWagun]

You see, I wanted to clean the IAC, but the port it was in is very tiny and awkwards, and the sensor itself looked too sensitive. Illl go ahead and clean that and the EGR, and replace the EGR gasket today.

You're right about the pod, I wouldnt mind a trans temp and an intake vacuum gauge

as for the temp sender with the new gauge, i really dont wanna use the new sender because:
1- I'm not sure if the dapters it came with will fit the block
2- I just flushed my coolant
3- i'm quite neurotic now about air pockets and my engine overheating after the last two weeks...

I got me a nice gauge too! http://www.autometer.com/cat_gaugedetail.aspx?gid=3571&sid=61

 

[SunlitComet]

Mechanical huh. Thought you might have gone for an electric gauge instead. Concerned how a electrical sender is going to work with a mechanical gauge though

I just wanted to make sure the original sender electric specs line of with The new meter for an accurate reading.

You will get over the neurotics. If you are worried about opening up again just top it off like I mentioned before and the system will take care of the rest without incident.

 

[BattelWagun]

Mechanical huh. Thought you might have gone for an electric gauge instead. Concerned how a electrical sender is going to work with a mechanical gauge though

I just wanted to make sure the original sender electric specs line of with The new meter for an accurate reading.

Wait, I thought the autometer was the same as the dash gauge? They both have a brass sender with only 1 wire, not a 2 wire plug like an electrical unit....

As for the specs, I'm going to wire it up with my stock sender and then compare that reading to either my infra-red temp meter that I have, or what the computer is saying and see how close it is. If I have to change it I will.

 

[SunlitComet]

Whoa, If you are talking about the two wire temp gauge that just happens to be in front of the thermo housing, that is the temp sender for the computer the one for the dash is on the left side cylinder head with one wire above the above the spark plugs. The two wire sensor are mainly for the computers use.

the gauge you posted was for a mechanical type unit that uses capillary tubing not electrical sensor like we have in the dash now. Perhaps you just got the wrong link?

Thermometer electric gauges like one in dash use a one wire unit. But they may have temperature to resistance differences from one type of sensor to another. For example/ GM sensor Might be 0-90 from 100-260 degrees where a ford sensor might go 50-100 ohms for same temp range. Autometer would specify what the range is of the one they include. Just want it to go right the first time for you. As I said the link you posted was for a mechanical unit that does not require electricity to run(except for a back light. Sorry if I have confused you.

---------- Post added at 10:28 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:25 PM ----------

Just noticed that the electrical gauge equivalent you posted does actually uses a two wire sensor so you may just be better off running new wire pair to the cylinder head..
http://www.autometer.com/cat_gaugedetail.aspx?gid=3581&sid=61

 

[BattelWagun]

oopsy, I posted the wrong link haha...
here it is: http://www.autometer.com/cat_gaugedetail.aspx?gid=3113&sid=11
It's a short sweep electric gauge with a 1 wire sender, I got it because it had the same type of sensor as my stocker. I may try to install it today, unless my inner pyro comes out of course...

 

[SunlitComet]

Cool, thought you would gone for this one. It does have a two wire sender but has programmable warning and memory to keep the paranoia down.

---------- Post added at 02:12 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:07 PM ----------

It flashes and could even trigger some relays for extra fans if you wanted.

 

[BattelWagun]

You know, now that you show that to me I may have to change my choice of gauges. I've also decided on a three gauge pillar mount. I'm thinking water temp, intake vacuum, and either trans temp or fuel ratio...

Also, I'm wondering if that sender I bought just isn't the right one. The gauge reads consistently now that I'm closely observing it. It'll go to 240 and then fluctuate as the thermostat operates. It's almost as if it is just shifted to the right. I'm gonna get an ac deco sender and see what happens...


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