No start but have power/ Tahoe running and then gages drop

[TaboltB2015]

I have a 2010 Tahoe LT with z71. I’m having a no start problems some times it’ll start and be just fine and then when I go to get in it to move the Tahoe it won’t start yesterday I turned the key on and off twice to see if it’ll start the third time it started, I’ve already gone through and checked all my grounds and cleaned everything up and replaced the negative cable end, tonight I have driving to dinner and my speedometer was going up and down, service track was on and then it stated to shift very hard out of 1st gear, I could also hear a clicking on the driver side like under the steering wheel. I’ve been having trouble with the no start the past month, i drove it for a week after it started and it was fine and now it’s doing it again.... anyone have a idea?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[PG01]

These fuse blocks corrode in between the two halves. I would pull it apart clean that all up and add some dielectric grease. Pull the cover off under hood and youll see 2 gray handles, split fuse block clean and reattach

 

[TaboltB2015]

I’ve already done that, I’ll check it again in the morning, I know I have 242k miles but I take very good care of it I’ve had the Tahoe since last August and this is the biggest problem I’ve having


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[TaboltB2015]

These fuse blocks corrode in between the two halves. I would pull it apart clean that all up and add some dielectric grease. Pull the cover off under hood and youll see 2 gray handles, split fuse block clean and reattach

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Doubeleive]

I have a 2010 Tahoe LT with z71. I’m having a no start problems some times it’ll start and be just fine and then when I go to get in it to move the Tahoe it won’t start yesterday I turned the key on and off twice to see if it’ll start the third time it started, I’ve already gone through and checked all my grounds and cleaned everything up and replaced the negative cable end, tonight I have driving to dinner and my speedometer was going up and down, service track was on and then it stated to shift very hard out of 1st gear, I could also hear a clicking on the driver side like under the steering wheel. I’ve been having trouble with the no start the past month, i drove it for a week after it started and it was fine and now it’s doing it again.... anyone have a idea?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

sounds more like you are having transmission problems, maybe the park sensor is going goofy as well, if it thinks it is not in park it wont start.

 

[TaboltB2015]

sounds more like you are having transmission problems, maybe the park sensor is going goofy as well, if it thinks it is not in park it wont start.

What’s weird though, it did it one time while driving? Then the speedometer going crazy as well as traction and stability lights? I have appointment for Wednesday at the auto electrician shop..


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[kbuskill]

You already replaced the negative battery cable but made no mention of the positive cable... I would start there.

 

[TaboltB2015]

You already replaced the negative battery cable but made no mention of the positive cable... I would start there.

I replace just the cable end, I bought new cables from the dealer, I figured if I could replace just the end and save $70 for a cable I would, I have the positive cable sitting on the tool box at work I haven’t had time to raise it up to replace, some people are saying to add a ground from the ground strap to the front of the block by alternator, I haven’t got a chance do that yet as well, was told to not replace anything till it was diagnose


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[kbuskill]

I replace just the cable end, I bought new cables from the dealer, I figured if I could replace just the end and save $70 for a cable I would, I have the positive cable sitting on the tool box at work I haven’t had time to raise it up to replace, some people are saying to add a ground from the ground strap to the front of the block by alternator, I haven’t got a chance do that yet as well, was told to not replace anything till it was diagnose


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I'm slightly confused... you bought new cables from the dealer but only replaced the ends???

The ends are not usually the problem. The problem is corrosion that builds up inside of the cable itself.

 

[TaboltB2015]

I'm slightly confused... you bought new cables from the dealer but only replaced the ends???

The ends are not usually the problem. The problem is corrosion that builds up inside of the cable itself.

I only replaced the negative end like where it goes to the battery, haven’t don’t positive because haven’t had a chance to raise up on the lift to get to the starter


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[kbuskill]

I only replaced the negative end like where it goes to the battery, haven’t don’t positive because haven’t had a chance to raise up on the lift to get to the starter


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You need to replace the whole cable... that is where your problem is... I would bet on it.

 

[TaboltB2015]

You need to replace the whole cable... that is where your problem is... I would bet on it.

Sorry it took me so long to get back, I have have a communication lost problem, I went and replaced the body control module because i was having codes related to the BCM... so far it’s been pretty good! It’s been about two weeks now


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[swathdiver]

Sorry it took me so long to get back, I have have a communication lost problem, I went and replaced the body control module because i was having codes related to the BCM... so far it’s been pretty good! It’s been about two weeks now


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Another member had his BCM go on the fritz as well. He bought a Tech2 and reprogrammed the BCM and so far so good.

 

[TaboltB2015]

Another member had his BCM go on the fritz as well. He bought a Tech2 and reprogrammed the BCM and so far so good.

So I guess I spoke too soon it’s been almost 3 weeks with out a problem and tonight I was sitting at the gas station and all the gages dead lined had abs and trac light on my girlfriend said that the ac got hot and then the lights came on, luckily I still had a 10mm wrench in the center console, disconnect the pos from battery to reset everything and was able to drive it home.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[swathdiver]

I'd put all new cables on it. Had to do this with my three Pontiacs and an Oldsmobile over the years. I reckon this truck will need them too at some point. It is a wear item.

 

[TaboltB2015]

You need to replace the whole cable... that is where your problem is... I would bet on it.

I replaced the whole cable and added 3 more grounds on Tuesday and today while I was with family two hours from home it has the same problem, this time my speedometer started going up and down, then the A/C got hot, all the dash lights would come on and then all the gages expected the battery voltage would go to 0 and then this time the locks went crazy like someone was playing with lock and unlock, and also the radio turned off which is the first time that’s happened as well. I’ve already spent close to $500 in the last two months to “fix” the problem, I replaced the BCM which was most of the cost,at this point I’m ready to sell it and make it someone else’s problem


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[TaboltB2015]

This is a picture of when all the gages dropped to 0 and stayed lost all power but motor was still running and had no power to more even with foot to the floor

 

[kbuskill]

Did you replace both the positive and negative cable?

Did you do it yourself or have someone do it?

All the symptoms you are describing are exactly the problems that people have when their battery cables are corroded.

Have you taken the battery out to have it load tested?

 

[TaboltB2015]

Did you replace both the positive and negative cable?

Did you do it yourself or have someone do it?

All the symptoms you are describing are exactly the problems that people have when their battery cables are corroded.

Have you taken the battery out to have it load tested?

I replaced just the negative for now as well add grounds from the battery to the body and to the frame,I did it my self at my work on the lift, I do most of the work my self so I don’t have to cough up lost of moneys lol, I load tested it as well and it tested good. I have a new positive cable at work that I ordered but it just goes to the starter, I live in Kansas so there’s not much road salt or anything to get to these wires I keep under the hood pretty clean- just by taking a damp towel and wiping It clean, so not much to make it corroded..


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[kbuskill]

I replaced just the negative for now as well add grounds from the battery to the body and to the frame,I did it my self at my work on the lift, I do most of the work my self so I don’t have to cough up lost of moneys lol, I load tested it as well and it tested good. I have a new positive cable at work that I ordered but it just goes to the starter, I live in Kansas so there’s not much road salt or anything to get to these wires I keep under the hood pretty clean- just by taking a damp towel and wiping It clean, so not much to make it corroded..


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Perhaps your is different from mine but my positive cable comes off the battery and goes to the 175A mega fuse on the fire wall before splitting off and going to various locations including the starter and the main fuse box under the hood.