New sway bar end links

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Zayzay

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Hi all, I need a little help understanding sway bar link ends. I’m looking at doing tie rods and link ends on my 05 Yukon Denali. Doesn’t need to be anything special but I’m looking on Rock Auto and I see that the GM Genuine end links are 8.22” bolt length but others range in length upwards to 10” bolt length. So question is, what’s the difference? Is it going to be an issue if I buy end links that are a little longer than OEM? Or am I looking at the wrong thing worrying about nothing
 

OR VietVet

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Are you looking at only front links or are the differences because of rear links listed too.
 

Doubeleive

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Hi all, I need a little help understanding sway bar link ends. I’m looking at doing tie rods and link ends on my 05 Yukon Denali. Doesn’t need to be anything special but I’m looking on Rock Auto and I see that the GM Genuine end links are 8.22” bolt length but others range in length upwards to 10” bolt length. So question is, what’s the difference? Is it going to be an issue if I buy end links that are a little longer than OEM? Or am I looking at the wrong thing worrying about nothing
slightly longer bolts will make install easier.
and just for basic information the CORRECT method to do front sway bar bushings and/or end links is with the front wheels off the ground and the vehicle supported on the frame
reason being the front suspension is loaded with wheels on the ground, whereas rear suspension is loaded with wheels off of the ground or with the body lifted up.
so front both wheels up (frame supported, not the control arms)
rear both wheels on the ground
people try and do it by lifting one side or using ramps on the front, all that does is make you fight the sway bar.

also if you are replacing the front sway bar without help. lightly bolt up one D bushing while holding the bar up, then lightly bolt up one end link on the same side then switch to the other side, otherwise it's a b*tch, unless you are lucky enough to have a lift. I say lightly bolt, because you want to be able to move it around and not have it all tightened up until you have all 4 parts connected.

and lol, by assembly it's bolt/washer/bushing (swar bar) bushing/washer/washer/bushing (control arm) bushing/washer/nut
bolt feeds up from the bottom and nut goes on the top
if you have parts left over you did it wrong

torque to 13ft-17 lbs (for end links)
25-30ft lbs for the center D bushings, I would also use blue threadlocker on the center bushing bolts I have had the bolts come out before

I also personally throw a 2nd bolt on the end link to tighten against the 1st bolt as I have had those work there way out before as well, normally that shouldn't happen but I drive like a savage.
 
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Zayzay

Zayzay

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Viet, all rear end link seem to be the same but someone before me already replaced the entire rear suspension (about 60k miles ago) and got rid of the auto ride so going to do the front first.
Doubeleive, you’re a fricking life saver for giving me a write up! Thank you so much that saved me a lot of time, appreciate it
 

mountie

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Viet, all rear end link seem to be the same but someone before me already replaced the entire rear suspension (about 60k miles ago) and got rid of the auto ride so going to do the front first.
Doubeleive, you’re a fricking life saver for giving me a write up! Thank you so much that saved me a lot of time, appreciate it
Rear sway bar ends, must be level with the frame. ( adjust accordingly )

Go to the Hellwig 'swaybar' website...... They have their " installation guide" links, to install the bars.
 
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Zayzay

Zayzay

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Fless, was just worried about the sway bar links not the steering links. I was finding different bolt length sway bar links but I think that’s been cleared up. I’m also buying tie rods but I think I’ve got those figured out
 

Doubeleive

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Fless, was just worried about the sway bar links not the steering links. I was finding different bolt length sway bar links but I think that’s been cleared up. I’m also buying tie rods but I think I’ve got those figured out
tie rods you can measure/eye ball but you will need a alignment afterwards
 
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Zayzay

Zayzay

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I’m using a friends shop about 40 minutes away from anywhere I can get a alignment, I know I have to get one but it should be fine to drive the 40 minutes after putting new tie rods on right?
 

mountie

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I’m using a friends shop about 40 minutes away from anywhere I can get a alignment, I know I have to get one but it should be fine to drive the 40 minutes after putting new tie rods on right?
As long as your adjustment is reasonably close.... Better to have a tad pointed inward, than out. I believe, alignment, is not pointed perfectly straight ahead.... But a tiny percent pointed inward. Tiny bit....

Just pay attention when you make a turn. ( Front steering may not corporate )
 

Doubeleive

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if it's pretty close yes, you might get some death wobble depending the speed driven, if that happens just let off the gas and keep your hands on the steering wheel until it stops wiggling, then just stay under that speed the rest of the way
 
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Zayzay

Zayzay

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Thank you guys, I should be able to get it pretty close measuring the length and turns made taking it off. They're back roads so I’ll be able drive as slow as I need to back to the city!
 

mountie

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Thank you guys, I should be able to get it pretty close measuring the length and turns made taking it off. They're back roads so I’ll be able drive as slow as I need to back to the city!
We are cautious...... We have a vivid imagination when it comes to driving,.... after we work on our own trucks, on our own driveways... ( just kidding )
 

OutandAbout

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Longer sway bar links could accommodate a scenario where the front is lifted 4” or more. But standard key level kits, the stock length sway bar links are ok. Poly bushings might be a good choice if you have raised the ride height.
 

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