New guy with Questions

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

niterydr

TYF Newbie
Joined
Mar 4, 2010
Posts
2
Reaction score
0
Hello everyone.

My name is Josh and I am a car junkie. After googling for a few hours I've decided that this is the Tahoe/Yukon forum I should join. Great forum here with good information.

I am in the market for a new daily driver/tow rig. My current vehicle (2000 Audi A6 2.7T) is a nice vehicle, but it limits my fun. I can't tow a boat with it, and wish to purchase one. House projects are a pain as I can't do anything "big" as well..I have a car and borrowing a truck sucks.

My background is I work in the Fleet industry currently and have co-owned two shops. I am ASE certified, but love to learn (as much as I love to teach), here is where all of you come in :) I know my imports, engine tuning (ran the awd dyno we had at the 2nd shop, build engines and manual transmissions in the first shop), and way around cars, but do not claim to be a OBS Chevrolet expert.

I am having a delima right now. The Audi is going to be sold, and I can't decide if I want to purchase what seems like a good deal OBS Tahoe or go get a loan on a newer one. I like the 2000+ body lines, but I have experience with the OBS trucks. My shop (well within the pool of owners), had a 1998 6.5L Diesel 2500 suburban and a 1996 GMC 2500 6.5L diesel longbox. Both were great trucks and a bit more than I truely need.

The 1999 is a co-workers and he is the original owner :shocked:
It has 125k on it and he is selling it for $2000. 4 door, 4x4, LT package. He says it has the factory towing package with 3.73's and hitch, but I haven't inspected the truck (he is driving it to work tomorrow).

There are a few reasons he is selling it so cheap. First is that it needs a front differential. I guess it has been vibrating for a few years and someone went and had it checked out on a test drive, front diff is toast, metal soup toast. I figure I can get it home (10 miles from work, he lives 7 miles away), but would not drive it until I swap that out. It appears a salvage yard 3.73 front diff around here is in the $86-500 range, pretty cheap. Put in new bearings and I am good to go as long as the ring/pinion are good.

The issue that has me scratching my head is the salvage title. 3 years ago a family member of his rolled (tipped) it. Apparently they were doing the "look down while drive slow" game up north and put it into a ditch at 5mph. The truck tipped on to the passanger side and tore up the passanger front door, dented the upper front corner at the rear glass,and broke a B pillar weld, pushed it back 1/8". The truck was ruled a "total loss" as technically to repair it they would have to replace the roof. Now to me that seems really weird as he bought it back and has driven it for the last 3 years without issue, until differential soup happened that is. It has a green door (yuck, on a blue truck, salvage yard here I come again), but apparently no water leaks. The windshield was replaced in the wreck as well. The driver door is scratched from them crawling out. One of my Talon's got salvaged from "hail damage" but I've never bought a vehicle that has been tipped. Being 3 years ago, I would imagine all the issues would have presented itself.

The motor was replaced at 34k as another family member thought going down the highway in 4x4 low was a great idea, this was probably 6 years ago as he bought the truck new. I guess they cooked the poor thing.

The guy is a gearhead, just tired of working on it. He has 3 other fullsize chev's and none of his kids have the $$ to fix it, and he doesn't want to pay to fix a tahoe that averages 17mpg to have them drive him broke (smart dad).

I've looked at the differential job, not to bad, but am looking for expert input on the salvage title issue. Who here has tipped the Tahoe over? Any long term issues I should look at? I plan on inspecting the vehicle Friday and will spend some time on that door area to ensure it is safe, try to see what he is talking about regarding a pushed back pillar/broken weld.
I am a sucker for a good deal, especially a 4x4 this cheap, but my time is valuable and do not want to work on this truck 10 hours a month to keep it going, like my Audi has been. That pos car has soaked me for over $2000 in parts this last year and was a "good deal". Before that car I've had a good track record of buying beaters, but figured I would seek out experts. I don't mind the parts pricing and labor is what it is, but I still can't go to Home Depot and get house stuff, go to the pick and pull and make $$, or go fishing with a boat with it. Car has gotta go.

Recap/Cliffs:

Pro's: Engine has less than 100k on it. It is strong and he changes the oil every 3k on the dot. Has done a few tune-ups so I know he keeps it running well. The truck has newer brakes, newer fuel pump, ignition module, and is decently maintained. Cheap and everything I need in a rig. Gas mileage is for Prius owners, my Audi gets 20 if I am lucky.

Con's: Salvage title, green door on a 4 door blue Tahoe. Needs a front diff, but has been driven in gear soup mode for a year from the sounds of it (strange?!?!). The transmission shifts good according to him, but has never been serviced. This scares the crap out of me as the 4l60E loves new fluid.


What do you say experts? I obviously am going to inspect it tomorrow and maybe purchase next week, but want some previous experience if possible.

I expect it will need all fluids changed, the front diff, try to find a door if I can cheap, the vehicle has leather, so that is trashed most likely (gotta love chev leather), and the typical stuff at this range (pitman, idler, balljoints, tie rods) I expect to do. Just that these Tahoe's draw a premium anywhere around 100k and lower.

Thank you all, nice forum. See you around as I will be getting on of these as a DD. I was looking a a 2nd gen explorer (5.0) or a 3rd gen explorer, just don't want to deal with a/c issues, rear diff issues, cracking rear panels, and usually lower towing and hauling capacity. Plus already having worked on 2 OBS chev's before I am familiar with them. So I am getting one of these rigs, just can't decide now or later.

Thank you all!
 
OP
OP
N

niterydr

TYF Newbie
Joined
Mar 4, 2010
Posts
2
Reaction score
0
Well he called in sick Friday,so maybe I can check it out this week.
 

99Yukon_Z71

Crazy Puerto Rican
Joined
Nov 6, 2009
Posts
294
Reaction score
2
Location
Humble, TX
Josh,

I would be more worried about the powertrain being in good working order, and that includes the transfercase and tranny too!! Driving in 4LO until the engine blows probably wasnt very good on that transfer case either. Did he replace that aswell? It sounds like a decent truck for $2K, and the body damage, like you said, hasnt presented problems in the past 3 years so I wouldnt be very worried about that, just paint the door to match the truck and look better. Also check if its got the G80 locker, and make sure the rear diff is in good working order too! If the locker is shot, thee might be metal parts circulating inisde that rear diff causing more wear.
 
OP
OP
N

niterydr

TYF Newbie
Joined
Mar 4, 2010
Posts
2
Reaction score
0
Thank you for the information Fernando. I plan on check out the transmission, engine, and rear end as much as I can before jumping on it. I never asked on the transfer-case regarding the engine concern, good point that I will bring up Monday.

The point is I do not want to get into a money pit. I am fine dumping money into a vehicle, but would rather choose to do it versus be forced to do it.
 

Forum statistics

Threads
129,257
Posts
1,812,938
Members
92,358
Latest member
caprajohn
Top