need help solving lean condition

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Scottydoggs

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We have been ardent EFILive users and supporters for 13 years now and one of the key benefits that I've seen is the flexibility of their scan tool is quite a bit above HPT and HPT is leaps and bounds above many others. Both software packages are extremely capable though and really end up being about individual preference these days.

You will need to download the EFILive V7.5 software to view, but attached is your factory calibration, latest version, from GM. If you ever need to reference, it will just be a matter of cross-referencing the two software packages. You'll likely find that EFILive has a few tables that HPTuners does not and vice versa. For instance, HPTuners was missing some key fan control parameters for a good 4 or 5 years, but got E38 de-soot parameters in ahead of EFILive.

thanks, ill check that out.

i went with hpt because i know a hand full of people who have used it for years, aka live tech support. always good to have help just a phone call away.

pretty much only help ive reached out for is the scanner set up, setting that up made me feel like a noob tuner. where in reality ive been tuning 3800's for 8 years now. but dhp is a old barbaric tuner next to others out there. opened up hpt and was like ok where do i start here? i spent hours just looking at every tab and the files listed to get familiar with em. even the 3800 bin file in hpt has a ton more settings then im used to.
 

Scottydoggs

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I was thinking of a tune but I figured I had to get this problem out the way. I'm waiting to borrow a friend's fuel pressure gauge to see what's going on. if that's not the problem I might just take it somewhere. being partially disabled with no place to work on the truck has me limited


smart move on the repairs before tune. you never want to tune anything thats not running its best.

intake gaskets take a few hours to complete. parked on the street in NY, road side repairs happen all the time. if working with someone even faster.
 
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HACK BLOCK

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here is 2 pictures I just took. as u can see just raising the rpm by 100 sends the ltft over 10%
IMG_20180319_141050.jpg
IMG_20180319_141041.jpg
 

Justin

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Try it with the MAF disconnected to isolate that variable.
 

Scottydoggs

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efilive looks pretty cool. a lot like dhp with the drop down menu, but way more details in the windows for sure.
 
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HACK BLOCK

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Try it with the MAF disconnected to isolate that variable.
tried with the maf unplugged and the ltft was stuck at 9.6 through out the rpm range except when I let off the gas it bounced around for a second or 2
 

Scottydoggs

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ever clean your maf? we're pages deep now. i cant recall.

when you unplug the maf it runs off the pcm's settings. forces it into open loop. same as when its on a cold start.
 

Justin

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tried with the maf unplugged and the ltft was stuck at 9.6 through out the rpm range except when I let off the gas it bounced around for a second or 2

How much time did you give it to learn? 9.6% is still quite a bit better, but not conclusive.

ever clean your maf? we're pages deep now. i cant recall.

when you unplug the maf it runs off the pcm's settings. forces it into open loop. same as when its on a cold start.

MAF was cleaned in a previous post. Unplugging it will still allow for trims to function and remain in closed loop as long as the engine is above 130 degrees. The two drawbacks are intake air temps locks in (temporarily) at -38*F and the PCM drops to the low octane spark table, but otherwise everything functions as normal.
 
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HACK BLOCK

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I had the mad unplugged for about 1 minute then varied the rpm for another minute. engine temp was 192 and was in open loop when I did the test
 

Justin

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I had the mad unplugged for about 1 minute then varied the rpm for another minute. engine temp was 192 and was in open loop when I did the test
To really get an idea of what is going on, you would want to drive it around for 3-4 minutes to see where the trims start to trend.

It's difficult to know what could be going on with the vehicle in park/neutral due to how little load is being applied to the engine.
 

sonic_the_hedgeh

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i'm trying to get to the bottom of my super bad mpg (150-180 a tank) and p0171 and p0174 codes. at first i took it to a shop to be looked at and i was told i had 3 bad injectors and they wanted to charge me around $750 for 8 injectors and labor. but after changing my evap purge valve my check engine light went away and i figured they was trying to **** me over. i ended up buying an al619 scan tool to figure out why my abs light was on and noticed my LTFTs were super high between 18% and 25%. after some reading online i came to the conclusion that i have a fuel delivery problem. but something i did notice is that my LTFTs are less than 10% when cold and rise has the car gets closer to operating temps. i have not checked my plugs yet and what should i check before i start dumping money into it
I had error codes indicating both my banks were running lean. I did notice as well a lack of power all the time as well as poor fuel economy.

So I researched then bought a can of Royal Purple fuel system cleaner. It took 2 days of burning fuel then my check engine light went off.
I have had problems with the MAF as well but after cleaning it seems fine.

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sonic_the_hedgeh

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I had error codes indicating both my banks were running lean. I did notice as well a lack of power all the time as well as poor fuel economy.

So I researched then bought a can of Royal Purple fuel system cleaner. It took 2 days of burning fuel then my check engine light went off.
I have had problems with the MAF as well but after cleaning it seems fine.

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Yes I have the same lean problem. Although I have used a few fuel cleaners only royal purple came close. The check engine light still comes on but not as often. After researching it online I am going to try a second royal purple in the fuel again. I cleaned the MAF which did help.

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bottomline2000

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Yes I have the same lean problem. Although I have used a few fuel cleaners only royal purple came close. The check engine light still comes on but not as often. After researching it online I am going to try a second royal purple in the fuel again. I cleaned the MAF which did help.

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Fuel cleaners aren't going to fix things like leaking intake gaskets or bad 02 sensors. What codes re you getting? If it's both banks then look at what they share. I would start with the intake gasket or the engine sucking in unmetered air..

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sonic_the_hedgeh

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To really get an idea of what is going on, you would want to drive it around for 3-4 minutes to see where the trims start to trend.

It's difficult to know what could be going on with the vehicle in park/neutral due to how little load is being applied to the engine.
In park or neutral runs fine. I never hear it running strange. Just one bank is showing as lean.


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Chubbs

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Since fuel trims are on the menu, would anybody care to give me some clues as to what’s going on with my application?
 

sonic_the_hedgeh

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i'm trying to get to the bottom of my super bad mpg (150-180 a tank) and p0171 and p0174 codes. at first i took it to a shop to be looked at and i was told i had 3 bad injectors and they wanted to charge me around $750 for 8 injectors and labor. but after changing my evap purge valve my check engine light went away and i figured they was trying to **** me over. i ended up buying an al619 scan tool to figure out why my abs light was on and noticed my LTFTs were super high between 18% and 25%. after some reading online i came to the conclusion that i have a fuel delivery problem. but something i did notice is that my LTFTs are less than 10% when cold and rise has the car gets closer to operating temps. i have not checked my plugs yet and what should i check before i start dumping money into it
My check engine light still comes on. Where is the purge valve to replace? I have to try that.

I figure only thing I have left is to take the vacuum line off the back of the engine and put some seafaom through it. Not sure if that will help.

I have 6.0 later and mine says lean on one bank. If I put any cleaner in the fuel the light will go off for days at a time.

I haven't had the chance to remove the vacuum line at the back of the engine but might just work as apparently it leads directly to the injectors

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