Need help locating the stock subwoofer output wires on factory Bose amp for LOC install

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Tuco8ntJoKen

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Need help locating the stock subwoofer output wires on factory Bose amp for LOC so that I can run my 15-in comp R kicker subwoofer and my 3000w Memphis audio amplifier to the factory head unit keeping all the factory functions with the premium Bose sound system.
I already have the center console ripped up with the amp exposed, just trying to locate which wires that I can tap into for my line output converter! Thanks!
 
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Tuco8ntJoKen

Tuco8ntJoKen

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After taking apart my center console I found that it was an absolute disgusting mess under there so excuse me for that as I just recovered my Denali from evidence after it was stolen nine months ago (but that's a story for another day)16813444565018358406040857819083.jpg

This is my factory BOSE amplifier underneath the center console compartment in between the driver and passenger seat. I'm trying to locate which harness and wires are the output speaker wires to tap into for my line output converter
installScreenshot_20230412-175040.png
 
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iamdub

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After taking apart my center console I found that it was an absolute disgusting mess under there so excuse me for that as I just recovered my Denali from evidence after it was stolen nine months ago (but that's a story for another day)View attachment 396706

This is my factory BOSE amplifier underneath the center console compartment in between the driver and passenger seat. I'm trying to locate which harness and wires are the output speaker wires to tap into for my line output converter
installView attachment 396711


I don't know the wiring colors or locations. I also don't know if my generation is the same as yours. But I wanted to make sure that, in your searches, you were looking for the full-range signal that goes to the amp from the HU. You don't wanna get the sub output from the amp since that signal will be optimized for the Bose sub. You'd probably be missing out on some lows if you used that signal. Most aftermarket amps have a built-in crossover so you can send it a full-range signal and tweak the crossover for your 15.
 
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Tuco8ntJoKen

Tuco8ntJoKen

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I'm tapping into the output with a (LOC) line output converter. From the LOC I'm hooking up a Memphis Audio VIV3000.1V2 3000Watt RMS Monoblock Amplifier then my 15" Kicker sub will be connected to the Memphis Audio Amplifier.

Where else can u tap a line output converter (LOC) to?
 

Doubeleive

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if you really want to just use the amp to speaker sub output you can simply grab the signal at the speaker, but like Dub stated it won't sound very good or as good as it should
depends on the year but most of the time the signal from the radio to the bose amp is digital and like dub said the bose amp has all of it's own built in filters and so the output out to the bose sub is not a normal one, you going to loose "normal" base.
to get that pure signal you might have to use a module or adapter. I would say a maestro RR but it's not compatible with a stock radio from the gmt800's
 

Noregurts

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Skip doing it twice, run new wires . I wish I didn’t waste the time doing all that myself. When installing your new system make sure you use wire ferrules and end connectors for your ground and battery hook ups . I don’t crimp either one any more the wire ferrules slide over wires and put in the amp and it will crimp itself with the best contact, the end connectors heat em up with a torch fill with solder and dip the wire into it .
 

iamdub

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I'm tapping into the output with a (LOC) line output converter. From the LOC I'm hooking up a Memphis Audio VIV3000.1V2 3000Watt RMS Monoblock Amplifier then my 15" Kicker sub will be connected to the Memphis Audio Amplifier.

Where else can u tap a line output converter (LOC) to?

The LOC is just a step-down transformer that lowers the voltage from "speaker level" (dozens of volts) to "line level" (maybe 8 volts max). It doesn't change the frequencies being carried by the speaker wires. The Bose amp filters out or greatly reduces the bass notes that aren't ideal for the small Bose sub to be playing, like 30Hz and maybe even some in the 40Hz range. These are where your 15 Kicker will thrive. Tappin ginto the sub output wires would be like trying to play mid-bass through that 15" sub.

The door speakers are crossed over ("equalized") as well by the Bose amp. So, they're not an ideal source to tap, either. What you want is the full range signal coming from the HU and into the Bose amp. If I knew what wires these were, I'd tell you. Find the rear left and right speaker input wires and tap your LOC into those. This will give you a signal for your sub amp and you can keep the rest of the original system intact so the original Bose sub can remain as a filler for the "high bass".

It's been years, but I used to find wiring schematics on the12volt.com
 

mattbta

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If I read the keywords correctly it's a 2005 with Premium Bose.

View attachment 396814
Missed that. I never pay attention to tags or that kind of stuff.

However, there's a difference between Premium Bose (found on Tahoes/Yukons) and Luxury Bose (found on Denali/Escalade). The amp is entirely different between the two. Not sure how that plays into feeding a new sub from the amp outputs, though. I did the conversion but still run OEM speakers.

NOW... The lux amp works completely differently.
It is a "smart amp" in that is has a full on-board computer and DSP
(digital signal/sound processor). It is fully integrated with the
vehicle in that it communicates with everything in the vehicle over
the Class II data bus. (like a computer LAN) Now.. the head unit in
"lux" vehicles sends a VERY low level constant signal to the amp that
does NOT change. EVen when you turn the volume and play with the
fader/balance. The head unit does NOTHING to audio. It does not apply
bass or treble changes, it doesnt fade/balance it, nothing!! It just
sends a constant low level left and right (it doesnt send rear
signals) audio signal to the amp. The amp receives this and the amp's
DSP "optimizes" the sound to do whatever Bose does to it etc.. AND the
amp constantly talks to the head unit over the Class II data bus to
receive volume, fader, balance, bass, treble and mid-range
information. So, when you turn the volume knob up in a lux vehicle,
you are not simply increasing the output of the low-level signal from
the head unit. You are sending a signal directly to the LUX amp that
says "hey turn up the volume a bit". And then the amp just increases
the output level to the speakers. Same thing with the fader, because
remember the head unit does not output separate "rear" channels. The
amp is smart enough to "make up" a rear channel (for the rear
speakers) based on the fader setting that the radio is sending it over
the Class II network. its really pretty cool how it all works! Same
thing with Bass and treble too. You press some buttons on the radio to
increase the bass and the radio says to the amp "hey, adjust your EQ
for some more bass". Running the LUX amp this way keeps the audio
signals coming from the radio at a constant low level so not a lot of
interference can come in from power wires running along side... Also,
think back to my "water faucet/hose" analogy. Its like instead of
keeping the end valve wide open and controlling flow with the faucet's
knob, you are doing the opposite. You are keeping the audio signal low
and constant while just controlling actual volume of the music with
the "gain" control on the LUX amp. ANDDD thats why the LUX amp sounds
50 times better than the Premium, or DUMB amp!! Another nice thing
about the Lux amp is that it does not need an "amp turn on" wire or
anything because that is all done with Class II data. And you can
program a lux amp for which vehicle it is in and it will alter the
sound processing sequences to make the sound perfect for the size
cabin it is in! (for example, it is going to have to be programmed
differently if it is in a huge cabin Escalade ESV versus a smaller
extended cab Sierra Denali (thats the only truck that gets a lux amp
from the factory...if you dont count the Escalade EXT as a truck)
Sorry again for the lonnngggg description, but now you're an
expert in the verry confusing field of Bose/GM speaker and
entertainment systems!!! And now you can wire in a lux amp, make your
truck sound like a *REAL* Bose system, and show your dealer something
that he would have thought was impossible!! Explain to him how the lux
amp works and how its different from the dumb amps and ill bet he'll
be scratching his head after the second sentence!
Source: https://www.dieselplace.com/threads/diy-lux-nav-install.40437/
 
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