Deciding what to do with my 2023 Denali

[Jocko PDX]

what problem are you trying to solve?

peace of mind? mitigating a financial loss?

All of the above.. I really can't be comfortable towing a large ocean boat through the Oregon coast range 25 time a year on steep and windy roads with limited to no shoulder with this issue going on. And as far as mitigating a financial loss? Yes of course it would suck to have it fail when out of warranty and have to cough up a pile of cash to fix it. Also I am not at all thrilled about having the motor torn out of my practically brand new $95K rig..

 

[steiny93]

All of the above.. I really can't be comfortable towing a large ocean boat through the Oregon coast range 25 time a year on steep and windy roads with limited to no shoulder with this issue going on. And as far as mitigating a financial loss? Yes of course it would suck to have it fail when out of warranty and have to cough up a pile of cash to fix it. Also I am not at all thrilled about having the motor torn out of my practically brand new $95K rig..

peace of mind you cannot change; known issue without a certain path to mitigate
the financial part you can address to a degree via selling before warranty expire or go extended warranty

 

[Eighthtry]

Great topic. It is amazing to me that we even have to discuss this. New engine, period. Being the proud owner of a 2023 GMC Yukon Denali XL with 28,000 miles, and just having waved goodby to a 2011 GMC Yukon Denali XL with 203,000 miles, I have mixed feelings. Should I have sold the 2011 to buy the 2023? The 2023 was bought as a road car. Air suspension and all. The 2011 was a partial road car until I retired and put it road tripping two or three weeks at a time.

We sold the 2011 because I did not want to be stuck in Cut Bank, MT with a major repair. Engine used zero oil. Transmission shifted as new. AWD was perfect. Never had any problems, nothing leaked, but I knew that things should be expected at that age. It was time for things to start breaking.

So, what to do? Stuck in Cut Bank MT with a major repair is a serious problem, starting with finding a GM dealer. Replacing an engine, once I had it towed to the found GMC dealer somewhere, is a major inconvenience. In other words, I will be waiting 2 weeks or more for the replacement of a motor.

From what I read the 2023 problem is likely universal. Some will surface early. Some late. Maybe some never. But I think there is a definite risk that it is universal.

I think I go to the dealer, find the deal on the new one, then see what happens. Since I retired money is not that important only because I am spending nowhere near what I was when working, but I will be losing my ass on the Yukon regardless. So if I feel the deal is fair, then I will pull the trigger for a 2025. Since it is her car, the wife is now thinking about it.

What else would I buy anyway? My Suburbans and Yukons have all been fabulous high mileage vehicles. Plus they ride and handle very well, and are damn comfortable on long trips. I will not buy an underpowered turbo charged V6 anyway, and the Wagoneers cannot get away from a repair shop.

Probably only get $1,500 on the inevitible class action if we are lucky, because the lawyers will need to be paid.

I love that the solution is thicker oil. Why do they maintain the 0 on the 0/40. I would think the thicker bottom number is more important than the upper number.

Does anyone know if the check engine light should be illuminated on that code?

One other option is to find a reputable engine builder. I foresee enough in loss that an aftermarket solution could make sense. It is a bottom end only rebuild. Plus you get rid of the V4/V8 "feature", which will only cost you $250. That is about all one will save in gas over the life of the Yukon anyway. What do you think about this option?

 

[DuraYuk]

Great topic. It is amazing to me that we even have to discuss this. New engine, period. Being the proud owner of a 2023 GMC Yukon Denali XL with 28,000 miles, and just having waved goodby to a 2011 GMC Yukon Denali XL with 203,000 miles, I have mixed feelings. Should I have sold the 2011 to buy the 2023? The 2023 was bought as a road car. Air suspension and all. The 2011 was a partial road car until I retired and put it road tripping two or three weeks at a time.

We sold the 2011 because I did not want to be stuck in Cut Bank, MT with a major repair. Engine used zero oil. Transmission shifted as new. AWD was perfect. Never had any problems, nothing leaked, but I knew that things should be expected at that age. It was time for things to start breaking.

So, what to do? Stuck in Cut Bank MT with a major repair is a serious problem, starting with finding a GM dealer. Replacing an engine, once I had it towed to the found GMC dealer somewhere, is a major inconvenience. In other words, I will be waiting 2 weeks or more for the replacement of a motor.

From what I read the 2023 problem is likely universal. Some will surface early. Some late. Maybe some never. But I think there is a definite risk that it is universal.

I think I go to the dealer, find the deal on the new one, then see what happens. Since I retired money is not that important only because I am spending nowhere near what I was when working, but I will be losing my ass on the Yukon regardless. So if I feel the deal is fair, then I will pull the trigger for a 2025. Since it is her car, the wife is now thinking about it.

What else would I buy anyway? My Suburbans and Yukons have all been fabulous high mileage vehicles. Plus they ride and handle very well, and are damn comfortable on long trips. I will not buy an underpowered turbo charged V6 anyway, and the Wagoneers cannot get away from a repair shop.

Probably only get $1,500 on the inevitible class action if we are lucky, because the lawyers will need to be paid.

I love that the solution is thicker oil. Why do they maintain the 0 on the 0/40. I would think the thicker bottom number is more important than the upper number.

Does anyone know if the check engine light should be illuminated on that code?

One other option is to find a reputable engine builder. I foresee enough in loss that an aftermarket solution could make sense. It is a bottom end only rebuild. Plus you get rid of the V4/V8 "feature", which will only cost you $250. That is about all one will save in gas over the life of the Yukon anyway. What do you think about this option?

This whole thing has been blown so out of proportion on this forum it's honestly amusing.

This do not have a universal fail rate of 100%. It's like less than 5% . You guys are really making something out of nothing and ruining your own ownership experience.

Just look at the 90 page thread in the engine discussion. The value will not be diminished by any significant amount. This will be forgotten just as Toyota tundra engine recall has been forgotten.

People want these vehicles. And the company stands behind them. It's less a problem then if it were a hidden issue. Relax. Stay informed but don't clutch pearls for nothing.

 

[Jocko PDX]

I will add this. I do love my Yukon Denali. It is a very nice vehicle and drives like a dream. So as long as it does not have an engine failure, or have to have the engine preemptively removed, I will be very happy with it.

 

[LegalBrief]

Great topic. It is amazing to me that we even have to discuss this. New engine, period. Being the proud owner of a 2023 GMC Yukon Denali XL with 28,000 miles, and just having waved goodby to a 2011 GMC Yukon Denali XL with 203,000 miles, I have mixed feelings. Should I have sold the 2011 to buy the 2023? The 2023 was bought as a road car. Air suspension and all. The 2011 was a partial road car until I retired and put it road tripping two or three weeks at a time.

We sold the 2011 because I did not want to be stuck in Cut Bank, MT with a major repair. Engine used zero oil. Transmission shifted as new. AWD was perfect. Never had any problems, nothing leaked, but I knew that things should be expected at that age. It was time for things to start breaking.

So, what to do? Stuck in Cut Bank MT with a major repair is a serious problem, starting with finding a GM dealer. Replacing an engine, once I had it towed to the found GMC dealer somewhere, is a major inconvenience. In other words, I will be waiting 2 weeks or more for the replacement of a motor.

From what I read the 2023 problem is likely universal. Some will surface early. Some late. Maybe some never. But I think there is a definite risk that it is universal.

I think I go to the dealer, find the deal on the new one, then see what happens. Since I retired money is not that important only because I am spending nowhere near what I was when working, but I will be losing my ass on the Yukon regardless. So if I feel the deal is fair, then I will pull the trigger for a 2025. Since it is her car, the wife is now thinking about it.

What else would I buy anyway? My Suburbans and Yukons have all been fabulous high mileage vehicles. Plus they ride and handle very well, and are damn comfortable on long trips. I will not buy an underpowered turbo charged V6 anyway, and the Wagoneers cannot get away from a repair shop.

Probably only get $1,500 on the inevitible class action if we are lucky, because the lawyers will need to be paid.

I love that the solution is thicker oil. Why do they maintain the 0 on the 0/40. I would think the thicker bottom number is more important than the upper number.

Does anyone know if the check engine light should be illuminated on that code?

One other option is to find a reputable engine builder. I foresee enough in loss that an aftermarket solution could make sense. It is a bottom end only rebuild. Plus you get rid of the V4/V8 "feature", which will only cost you $250. That is about all one will save in gas over the life of the Yukon anyway. What do you think about this option?

The 2025 engine has redesigned/different parts and oil jacket. If you trade in for 2025 (if you can find one), in theory you have no worries. I will tell you that my 2025 has been exceptional so far.