My turn to need motor mount replacement (again)

[jyi786]

Looks like it's my turn to need my motor mount replaced on my 2019 Escalade ESV. The is the second time I've had to get this service done; the first time was on my old 2012 Yukon Denali.

Pretty sure it's the mount that's very problematic now. Getting a very odd vibration/shimmy when feathering the throttle when the torque converter goes into lockup. Vibrates the entire truck like mad until I either mash the throttle forcing an upshift, or take my foot off the throttle. I can feel the engine banging up whenever taking off from a complete stop. Having been through this before tells me it's the mount.

Confirmed that I absolutely cannot do this myself on my driveway, so I called around for quotes. Stealership wants $1900 for a side. One won't even quote until they look at it. Final place I called wants $1300 to do it.

Before I blow that $1300, just want to make sure with you all this is the right thing to do.

Thanks so much guys.

 

[B-train]

I'll do it for $1000 all day long. LOL

For that kind of money I'd get creative and comfy on the ground. Or, I'd find a friend with a hoist and throw some beer money their way for a few hours use.

Being that it's a 2019, hopefully rust won't be an issue, which should make it easier.

 

[jyi786]

I'll do it for $1000 all day long. LOL

For that kind of money I'd get creative and comfy on the ground. Or, I'd find a friend with a hoist and throw some beer money their way for a few hours use.

Being that it's a 2019, hopefully rust won't be an issue, which should make it easier.

Definitely no rust here.

I do all my own work on my truck, but this exceeds my capabilities (and my equipment), so unfortunately I have to farm this one out. I'm talking to the shop that quoted me $1300 to see if they can lower it for me any.

 

[B-train]

I've done it on the previous generation and it wasn't hard. I think with some ingenuity and elbow grease you can get er done. I know these seem more involved from what the threads have said, but I'd give it a try

 

[BlaineBug]

What is involved? $1300 to change ONE motor mount sounds ludacris.

 

[tom3]

Can't imagine a 4 year old machine needing a motor mount. Are these fluid mounts or something? See the mount priced at under $100 most places, You tube has several DIY videos with the usual drawn out BS. $1300 is a lot for this I'm thinking.

 

[jyi786]

What is involved? $1300 to change ONE motor mount sounds ludacris.

It's actually pretty involved.

Can't imagine a 4 year old machine needing a motor mount. Are these fluid mounts or something? See the mount priced at under $100 most places, You tube has several DIY videos with the usual drawn out BS. $1300 is a lot for this I'm thinking.

Yes, unfortunately, these motor mounts are actually known and prone to failure, and you are also correct. They are indeed fluid filled hydraulic mounts.

I thought about going with a poly mount, but there's only one other option for our K2X plaforms (the Atomic Fab mounts), and they are pricey. The old 2007-2014 models, you could actually use the Hummer H3 mount, which is exactly what I did with my 2012 Yukon Denali back when I had it.

I've been mustering up the courage; I've been reading quite a few posts and watching some more YouTube videos, and I think I'm going to try tackling this in my garage first. $1300 is a tough pill to swallow. I still think it's ludicrously, unnecessarily expensive, and I do not trust ANY shop to be screwing around for a motor mount and mess something else up in the process.

 

[BlaineBug]

It's actually pretty involved.

Yes, unfortunately, these motor mounts are actually known and prone to failure, and you are also correct. They are indeed fluid filled hydraulic mounts.

I thought about going with a poly mount, but there's only one other option for our K2X plaforms (the Atomic Fab mounts), and they are pricey. The old 2007-2014 models, you could actually use the Hummer H3 mount, which is exactly what I did with my 2012 Yukon Denali back when I had it.

I've been mustering up the courage; I've been reading quite a few posts and watching some more YouTube videos, and I think I'm going to try tackling this in my garage first. $1300 is a tough pill to swallow. I still think it's ludicrously, unnecessarily expensive, and I do not trust ANY shop to be screwing around for a motor mount and mess something else up in the process.

Never thought I'd be watching someone remove an exhaust manifold in a truck frame for a motor mount.

 

[BlaineBug]

See this guy - no removal of the exhaust manifold.

 

[jyi786]

Update: I did it.

Only the driver's side. While I was at it, I changed the spark plugs and spark plug wires.

I was able to get the new mount installed with the factory heatshield intact, as well as without having to take out or disconnect ANY driveshaft or anything else, except the intermediate steering shaft, which I simply undid the top bolt and disconnected it from the rest of the shaft, but did not actually remove it. So technically, I didn't remove anything. I did have to remove the exhaust manifold heatshield.

Believe it or not, getting the mount in/out was actually easy compared to something else. Do you know what was much, much worse? THE SPARK PLUGS. The driver's side bank was very easy since I was already there, but the passenger side spark plug way in the back? Oh man, I spent at least 6 hours on it. First, the spark plug wire ripped away from the boot when I tried to get it off the spark plug. Then the boot disintegrated when I tried to get pliers on it. I finally got it ripped out, but then the boot core was stuck on the spark plug. Had to get at it again with pliers, and then I could finally *try* to get the spark plug out.

There is legit no space to do anything. You have to remove the wheel, wheel liner, and the exhaust manifold heatshield to do it easily. It is a real ***** if you don't do that. I didn't remove any of those because I didn't feel like it and I didn't have the space (I have a small garage). Additionally, for some reason, the passenger bank was much more difficult to remove; the spark plugs wouldn't screw in/out easily, and the spark plug wires were difficult to remove. I finally got it done.

I will tell you this. I'm smaller stature: 5'3" and 140lbs. That certainly helped in this case.

So I did all that, plus an oil change, and rotation. It's late, so I'm going to try a test drive and then report back.

 

[BlaineBug]

Update: I did it.

Only the driver's side. While I was at it, I changed the spark plugs and spark plug wires.

I was able to get the new mount installed with the factory heatshield intact, as well as without having to take out or disconnect ANY driveshaft or anything else, except the intermediate steering shaft, which I simply undid the top bolt and disconnected it from the rest of the shaft, but did not actually remove it. So technically, I didn't remove anything. I did have to remove the exhaust manifold heatshield.

Believe it or not, getting the mount in/out was actually easy compared to something else. Do you know what was much, much worse? THE SPARK PLUGS. The driver's side bank was very easy since I was already there, but the passenger side spark plug way in the back? Oh man, I spent at least 6 hours on it. First, the spark plug wire ripped away from the boot when I tried to get it off the spark plug. Then the boot disintegrated when I tried to get pliers on it. I finally got it ripped out, but then the boot core was stuck on the spark plug. Had to get at it again with pliers, and then I could finally *try* to get the spark plug out.

There is legit no space to do anything. You have to remove the wheel, wheel liner, and the exhaust manifold heatshield to do it easily. It is a real ***** if you don't do that. I didn't remove any of those because I didn't feel like it and I didn't have the space (I have a small garage). Additionally, for some reason, the passenger bank was much more difficult to remove; the spark plugs wouldn't screw in/out easily, and the spark plug wires were difficult to remove. I finally got it done.

I will tell you this. I'm smaller stature: 5'3" and 140lbs. That certainly helped in this case.

So I did all that, plus an oil change, and rotation. It's late, so I'm going to try a test drive and then report back.

The back plug on the passenger side has always been reported to be a bear.

I'm glad someone says that spark plugs are worse than the motor mounts, though.

I think the worst spark plug and wire job I ever did was on a C4 Corvette.

 

[houstontaylor]

Could it be the transmission mount?

 

[petethepug]

Is it 4WD? If your motor mount came due, your diff carrier bushings are likely toasted too. Of course replace the diff mount bars with the new bushings already pressed in. On R/A they’re inexpensive, almost cheaper than the 4 bushings themselves.

 

[jyi786]

Is it 4WD? If your motor mount came due, your diff carrier bushings are likely toasted too. Of course replace the diff mount bars with the new bushings already pressed in. On R/A they’re inexpensive, almost cheaper than the 4 bushings themselves.

Yes, it's the 4WD.

Another update: problem is still there, albeit feels much less worse than before.

Getting a very odd vibration/shimmy when feathering the throttle when the torque converter goes into lockup. Vibrates the entire truck like mad until I either mash the throttle forcing an upshift, or take my foot off the throttle.

Notwithstanding the fact that the mount had to get changed no matter what, I'm not eager to throw the parts cannon at this. Any thoughts?

Just for full transparency, I did do a transmission service (full pan drop, filter change, AND transfusion [no, not flush]) on the truck back 20k miles or so ago, and had no issues till now, so I'm hoping I didn't do anything wrong.

 

[BlaineBug]

Torque converter?

 

[jyi786]

Just paid for a subscription to Alldata DIY...and I think I might have made a pretty bad mistake.

When I did my transmission fluid change a few months ago, I used instructions for the 10L80 which called for checking transmission fluid at between 75-80C (167-176F). However, Alldata says to check it at between 95-100C (203-212F). Which means my trans was probably overfilled....

How badly did I screw up?

 

[Matt1t]

@jyi786 - Oh wow this is timely as I just got a quote from the dealership to replace the driver side motor mount for $1,700. I just called my normal shop to see what they charge for this. I too have 4WD and from what I can tell, if its 4WD its not worth the headache, but I also don't want to spend $1,000 + on it. I did my spark plugs about 6 months ago, so if you said the spark plug job was harder, I'm thinking I could do it. I too am about to do my transmission fluid (pan drop) so interested in whats up with you're rig now. As I was typing this, the local shop just quoted me $565. I think I'm going that route!

 

[TahoeFL2017]

I was quoted $650 for drivers side, 4x4 Tahoe LT, 2017

Sounds reasonable now lol

should I ask them to use the Hummer mount, is it more heavy duty than stock Tahoe mount?

this is a 5.3 L truck

 

[BlaineBug]

Just paid for a subscription to Alldata DIY...and I think I might have made a pretty bad mistake.

When I did my transmission fluid change a few months ago, I used instructions for the 10L80 which called for checking transmission fluid at between 75-80C (167-176F). However, Alldata says to check it at between 95-100C (203-212F). Which means my trans was probably overfilled....

How badly did I screw up?

This thread is spiraling out of control with 2 different topics/problems.

 

[jyi786]

This thread is spiraling out of control with 2 different topics/problems.

Yeah, gonna open a new thread.