My Project Tahoe

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DadsToy

DadsToy

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Thanks @Geotrash, I am starting to rethink my rebuild path after I saw this youtube video about the sloppy mechanic cam kits.
Seems the metal is really soft and the lobes are not ramp up right. I am trying to fix this on the cheap side and also have fun with it after it is done. We sold the camper. So not really looking at towing any more. Just want to build something to piss off the neighbors...lol I like the truck norris cams but very pricey. I could go ahead and build it on the cheap with the sloppy cam. Drive it awhile and then just replace the cam with a better one later. At least this cheap way I am able to purchase more things like the oil pump, springs, push rods etc. The motor would at least be 50% fresh. My wife wants me to sell it and take a lose on it. But the car is paid for and it fits me. So I have to ask myself. Do I spend over $900 to have fun and puts a smile on my face every time I start it up. Or start over on a better unit with lower miles?
 

TollKeeper

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If on the cheap, just buy a used OEM cam.

Thats what most people do for staying on the cheap, while keeping it OEM.

I helped a buddy rebuild his, and he bought a one from eBay.. I think it was from a LM4.. But I might be wrong.
 
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DadsToy

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Now I am at a cross roads. So I source all my parts needed to do this rebuild. Thinking worst case I'll have to replace the rockers, cam, push rods, lifters, oil pump upgrade to high volume and timing chain/gears, etc. Thought is if your in it, might as well replace what you can now for insurance down the road. Cost is going to be around $500-700 just for parts. On the cheap be around $400.
So just found a 87k mile 6.0ls with a 6 speed auto trans for $600. Why not just upgrade to a 6.0 for the same cost of a rebuilding my 5.3. Thinking I would just have to get my ECU tuned or replace one from a junk yard and then tune. Or I found a 5.3 low mileage motor for only $400. Would make more since to pick and pull motors than to rebuild.:banghead:
 

Sam Harris

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Now I am at a cross roads. So I source all my parts needed to do this rebuild. Thinking worst case I'll have to replace the rockers, cam, push rods, lifters, oil pump upgrade to high volume and timing chain/gears, etc. Thought is if your in it, might as well replace what you can now for insurance down the road. Cost is going to be around $500-700 just for parts. On the cheap be around $400.
So just found a 87k mile 6.0ls with a 6 speed auto trans for $600. Why not just upgrade to a 6.0 for the same cost of a rebuilding my 5.3. Thinking I would just have to get my ECU tuned or replace one from a junk yard and then tune. Or I found a 5.3 low mileage motor for only $400. Would make more since to pick and pull motors than to rebuild.:banghead:
If you’re having difficulty deciding, just go ahead and send me the 6.0.. I’ll take good care of her.
 

Tonyrodz

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Now I am at a cross roads. So I source all my parts needed to do this rebuild. Thinking worst case I'll have to replace the rockers, cam, push rods, lifters, oil pump upgrade to high volume and timing chain/gears, etc. Thought is if your in it, might as well replace what you can now for insurance down the road. Cost is going to be around $500-700 just for parts. On the cheap be around $400.
So just found a 87k mile 6.0ls with a 6 speed auto trans for $600. Why not just upgrade to a 6.0 for the same cost of a rebuilding my 5.3. Thinking I would just have to get my ECU tuned or replace one from a junk yard and then tune. Or I found a 5.3 low mileage motor for only $400. Would make more since to pick and pull motors than to rebuild.:banghead:
Damn, that's super cheap!
 
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DadsToy

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Now the 6.0 is just the engine and trans. A 2016 so would have to do a DOD delete. Not a whole car. So the same price of just a rebuild kit I could get a whole new setup engine and trans. Now grant it my trans was rebuilt about 2years ago with a new torque converter. I could always pull the old one out and save it to rebuild later for another project car. Or just buy the other 5.3 motor for $400 and use my trans i have now. Small details, I would have to get an engine lift or rent one. More jacks stands. And would take a couple of weeks to pull a motor than to do a rebuild with it in the car.
 
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DadsToy

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Seriously. Any 6.0 I’ve looked at the last couple years, they want like 2k for. Buy it @DadsToy !!
I know right...Its just I am trying to figure out the other details of the swap. Like can I use the existing wiring harness. Will I have to get a 6.0 ECM? If so will it plug into my harness. or can my 5.3 be sent out to be program to run. Seems it would be a plug and play kind of thing, but there is the security issue with the VIN number. I should had bought a Tech II scanner when I had the chance. Oh and would have to program the trans too. Comes with a 6speed auto.
 

Sam Harris

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I know right...Its just I am trying to figure out the other details of the swap. Like can I use the existing wiring harness. Will I have to get a 6.0 ECM? If so will it plug into my harness. or can my 5.3 be sent out to be program to run. Seems it would be a plug and play kind of thing, but there is the security issue with the VIN number. I should had bought a Tech II scanner when I had the chance. Oh and would have to program the trans too. Comes with a 6speed auto.
It would need some adaptation for sure. You’d need to get a new crank with a 24x reluctor if I’m not mistaken. Although I believe Hennessy Lingenfelter makes a kit or something for that.

 
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DadsToy

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It would need some adaptation for sure. You’d need to get a new crank with a 24x reluctor if I’m not mistaken. Although I believe Hennessy Lingenfelter makes a kit or something for that.

Thanks for the info.
So there goes the budget build...lol I am better off just buying another 5.3. Cheap cam replacement and install the whole motor. At least I won't have a 300k motor anymore. I've source another 5.3 for $300. So find me a strong tree and pull the old one out. Block and tackle...lol true meaning of shade tree mechanic.
The 6.0 swap sounds cool. But most of the stuff I am reading on here is crazy problems. I think its more issue than I want to deal with right now. It would be different if it was more of a plug and play thing. Understand there would be some minor tuning issues. But in the long run. Would be more things to go wrong.
Maybe a old Cummins diesel swap. Now that would be interesting. Change fuel delivery, and drive shaft would have to be custom made. We have a shop here that does that. Rolling coal Tahoe.:head3:
 
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DadsToy

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So the chrome strip molding on the side of the doors is like gone. When the other owner had it painted. They just painted right over them. The paint didn't really stick to good to the chrome. Or it looks like they are weather from over the years. I was going to replace them until I saw how much they are to replace. Was just going to paint them to match the car. But found a cheap alternative. Chrome tape. For less than $18 I was able to give it a new look on life without having the hassle of removing the old molding. I think it came out great. And has the 10ft look of being good to go. Even if the tape comes off. I have plenty to replace it with. But I think its pretty good stuff and should stay in place. I don't go thru car washes. So should work ok. Here is a before, chrome tape, and after pictures.
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Was a pretty day so took on the project of installing my New shocks. Got a good work out and only took about 1 1/2 hours. Installed KYB Mono-Max shocks. I have to say it improved the handling quit a bit. When you turn into a corner it doesn't lean and doesn't stay in the corner. Levels out as soon as you go straight. Added about 16 lbs to the bags. I think I might have a leak. With air in the bags it raises up the back about 2". But once you put a load on the back it levels out where its supposed to go. I had to move my Daughter into her new house today. Was a good test to see how it performed. You can really load up the back with a lot of weight!! Without the back weighed down. It has a bounce. Believe that is the cause of the new springs. The old shocks where bad. I could push them down with no or little resistance. The front ones you could push in and wouldn't recoil back. Also the rubber bushings were wasted. Only concern with the KYB shocks is they didn't take the metal insert on the front shocks that the original ones had. But the new rubbers fit into the mounting holes just fine. So in short looks like I fix part of my issue. Adjust the air in the bags so they don't bounce,8lbs. Still have the issue with the front steering loose. Progress is always good.
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Any reason you didn’t go with the Bilsteins recommended by a few of us?
did you ever find out how to fix the front swaying?
 

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