Metal Coolant line at top of Radiator

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Bluerdg

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I seem to have a bad seal where the 3/8"? metal line connects to the top of radiator on the passenger side. It looks like it has some kind of brass compression fitting that mounts to the radiator with a plastic clip where the line fits into the fitting. I'm getting an irregular drip that appears to be running down the line and leaking from where the line enters the fitting. Any quick fix for this or do I need to replace the line? I'm assuming that tightening the brass nut just leads to stripping the threads on the radiator. I need identification on the part, tried looking up radiator schematics and it doesn't show up. 2000 2500 with 6.0L.
 

afpj

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IIRC that is the tranny line. Check the color of the leaking fluid to be sure. THis might help your search as to how to manage this. Sorry I don't have enough knowledge on how to fix your issue.
 
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Bluerdg

Bluerdg

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IIRC that is the tranny line. Check the color of the leaking fluid to be sure. THis might help your search as to how to manage this. Sorry I don't have enough knowledge on how to fix your issue.

It's orange Dex Cool. Here's a pic of the line. It's the bottom aluminum line with the green mark on it. I've never seen it spray, just noticing residue on the line and down the face of the radiator below it. Not noticing any difference in transmission temp which is comfortably low.
 

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mfdrookie516

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Yeah, that's a tranny line. If it's leaking coolant from that fitting, you've got a leaking radiator... it's leaking around the bung for that fitting, which isn't quite as simple as replacing a line.
 

YukonXL04

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On that 2500 shouldn't it have a tranny cooler infront of the radiator therefore not passing through the radiator ? That's how my 2000 2500 was...
 
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Bluerdg

Bluerdg

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Yeah, that's a tranny line. If it's leaking coolant from that fitting, you've got a leaking radiator... it's leaking around the bung for that fitting, which isn't quite as simple as replacing a line.
By Bung do you mean where the line enters the brass fitting or the brass fitting itself? Any direction on what is needed for fix?
 

mfdrookie516

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Bung may be the wrong term. I mean the part on the radiator itself where the threads for that line are...
 
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Bluerdg

Bluerdg

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Fix for the Transmission Cooling Line

Since this turned out to be part of the transmission cooling system and not engine cooling I took a long shot and swung into a local transmission shop, hoping they wouldn't try to convince me to leave it there for a full transmission overhaul. A quick inspection and he said it was transmission fluid that was leaking around an 0-ring seal between the tubing and the brass fitting. 1st Pic - Be careful not to turn the aluminum fitting directly on the radiator and back out the brass fitting. The plastic retainer can be slid back down the line to expose the retaining clip (Pic 2) I used a home made pick to ease it off on one side and then needle nose to pull it out. Once the clip is removed, slide the brass fitting off the end of the tubing - You'll notice the flare on the end of the tubing, I just used a rag and made sure it was clear of any debris and set the line off to the side. Pic 3 shows the Nitrile O ring set in a groove inside the brass fitting. I used my pick to carefully pop it out and then matched it up with a replacement from an assortment box of O-rings I picked up a while back at HF. I found one that appeared just a bit larger (girth) not diameter and worked it back into the groove in the brass fitting. Be careful Brass is soft metal and easily gouged, I got one end to seat in the groove and then worked around the O-ring with a small flat screwdriver to seat it. I could easily feel the extra girth in the new O-ring when I pushed the brass fitting back onto the tubing. I used needle nose pliers to tighten up the retaining clip before putting it back on, then re-tightened the brass fitting into the aluminum fitting on the radiator, and snapped on the plastic retaining ring. Took about 10 minutes. I got a little residual fluid loss from the line, but let the truck cool down about 30 minutes before starting the job and popped the tranny dip stick to relieve any pressure that might have been on the line.
 

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