Mechman Alternator Install?

[gmartin1215]

I am considering upgrading my 160 Amp alternator on a 2009 Tahoe to a Mechman 250 A.
The unit I am looking at is plug and play, but Tony at MM said to run a O-gauge wire from the alternator to the battery positive, and keep all OEM wiring the same.
That seems kinda of hacky to me, so I want to get some more opinios. Will Tony's suggestion work without issues? If so, it will be simple intead of having to try to do the Big 3.
Right now, I am only running a winch and LED lights, but will be intalling a micromobile radio soon. I am not planing to put any high output audio, but may do more other accesiries.
My drawing below illustrates what Tony is suggesting. The brown and black lines are the OEM positive and negative. The green line is Tony's suggestion.
Please let me know.

 

[Joseph Garcia]

Reading what you have on the truck in terms of ancillary power users, I would have to question why you need a larger alternator in the first place.

But, if you are set on installing a larger alternator, you will be fine going in either direction. If you 'think' that you may have some larger power users installed in the future, it would probably be better to install the Big 3 now, and be done with it.

 

[gmartin1215]

Thanks.
I neglected to mention that I also upgraded my radiator fans from the two 500w to two 700W.
I do see my lights dim when the fans kick on.

I may have more power needs but not sure what that is yet. My goal is to build an overlanding rig so may add more accessories to accommodate that goal.

I am starting to lean more to doing the Big 3, over trying to leave the wiring OEM.

I am also considering to do a dual battery setup, too.

Anyway, I just want to check on the suggestion from Tony to see if that is OK because I may do this temporarily.

 

[Joseph Garcia]

Having a second battery would be a great idea for overlanding. I put a second battery in mine, just because.....

 

[gmartin1215]

If I run the higher output MM alt (250 A) back to the fusible link near the battery (like the way it is wired OEM today but with bigger wire), would this possibly pop that fuse since it is only rated at 175 A? If I replaced that fuse with a higher amp one, then that could put the risk of other critical electrical items of failing?

Maybe just run the alt wire directly to the battery, and then from the battery to the fusible link I can leave as OEM?