MC replaced and pedal is solid, can't bleed

[96-2D-Hoe]

I just replaced the MC and now the pedal is solid and I can't even push it to bleed the brakes? MC piston went in and out with no issue when bench bleeding it. I pulled the lines off and checked them to make sure they were fitted properly and they are fine. Fluid will come out of the rear when I open the bleed screw. I'm really confused.

When I start the truck the pedal is solid and if I keep pushing will very slowly go down to about 1/2 way.

Just started bleeding the old one to put it back on and see what happens.

Every time I've ever done this there's always something.

Any ideas?

 

[89Suburban]

Yikes.

 

[96-2D-Hoe]

Old one is fine. What a PIA. I think it locked itself up. Back to the zone

 

[96-2D-Hoe]

Not sure how many of these I've screwed up and how many bad ones I've gotten but I've been through this too many times now. I did not know that you should not do more than 1" stroke when bench bleeding. I might have stroked that one too deep, but who knows. A Cardone vid says 1" stroke and hold for 30 secs.
I also managed to let the small reservoir at the front / rear brakes run dry again. I had no lunch and with all the BS I went through I should have just waited until tomorrow to replace it again, but... It's not been a fun day.
It was already late so I just blocked off the ports and tried to do a bench bleed while it was on the truck using the brake pedal. Bled the brakes and pedal was awful. Ran the ABS function test and it was better. Was 9pm and I didn't bleed the brakes again. Back to it tomorrow.
Just bought that Motive pressure bleeder. Wish I had pulled the trigger last week.

 

[89Suburban]

I hate ******* with brake parts that require bleeding, always a hassle. Sorry man.

 

[exp500]

What I cant understand is how the parts stores are putting returned MC's back on the shelf,wether its happening at the store level or distributor level. Last MC I did took 4 tries to get a good one, all new supposedly but bags open. Makes me wonder how many people are driving f250's around with poor brakes.Not to mention $40.00 of brake fluid. At least I know the lines are clean on the inside. Fer Chrissakes, Its Brakes not A/C !

 

[96-2D-Hoe]

I went through this 5 times a few years back. I think about 4 out the 5 looked dirty like they had been returned. I know I screwed up at least one of them pushing the pedal too far trying to bleed as fast as possible.

One man bleed does work but I'll probably just wait for the Motive kit to continue. The thought of just opening the bleed screw and watching what comes out is very appealing right now. Also pretty sure it will be able to push any air out of the rear section of the MC if I didn't get it all out already.

 

[96-2D-Hoe]

Got My Motive kit yesterday. Then found the current MC leaking from the reservoir seals. Just got another with some hassle at the zone.

It's like a comedy of errors. But I think both of these were probably my fault.

After doing this about 8 times I think I may have it down now.

 

[east302]

How did that Motive kit work out? I have one for a later (threaded reservoir cap) Yukon and it works great. Just wondered if you had any issues getting the plate to seal on the reservoir.

 

[OR VietVet]

@Rocket Man should get a commission from Motive for all the people that have heard from him and bought the Motive bleeder. I did and mine works great.

 

[96-2D-Hoe]

I haven't used it yet as I need to replace the MC again. Stinking hot today. Might have a go later this evening when it cools off.

But it all looks like it will work. I actually held off of buying it because I hadn't measured the MC. The 105 kit will work fine. Has about 3/16 - 1/4 fairly hard rubber panel on it. I think people may have issues because they are over tightening it, but I'll find out soon.

Cheapest price I found was on Amazon at $66 + tax. Shipping states 10 days which also put me off but I got it in 5 days.

 

[96-2D-Hoe]

But it all looks like it will work.

The lip of the reservoir is not level. It is high in the center and low at the ends. Could be a problem.

Bleeding new MC. I've always been in a rush to do this but it seems patience pays off. I give it a couple strokes, waiting at least 30 secs between each, and then walk away. When I come back 10-20 mins later air comes out with just 1/8" stroke. I thought I was done and walked the dogs for 20 mins and when I came back loads air came out. I think I'm pretty much done now and it's definitely the least effort I've ever had to put into it.

 

[OR VietVet]

Finally, huh!

 

[96-2D-Hoe]

Finally, huh!

Not quite. I still keep finding tiny bits more if I wait. I'm determined not to *$#* it up this time though.

 

[89Suburban]

Phuckin brakes!!!

 

[Fless]

Not quite. I still keep finding tiny bits more if I wait. I'm determined not to *$#* it up this time though.
View attachment 253865

Sure looks purty, all clean metal and fluid.

 

[96-2D-Hoe]

Phuckin brakes!!!

They sure are. My dumbass moves haven't helped.

I'm starting to feel like I'm going in circles with the bleeding. I guess time will tell

 

[east302]

From the manual, the MC should be tilted slightly down. I’ve heard there’s a reason for it, but don’t remember the specifics.

 

[96-2D-Hoe]

I had noticed that tilting it got air out. But haven't seen that. Thanks.

This one is leaking. It won't bleed. Not my fault this time.

 

[96-2D-Hoe]

Again got hassle for a replacement.

I didn't use the bleed kit and just followed the GM instructions. I think it's good to go.

Question: If there's air in the MC does it stay trapped in it or does it get pushed out when bleeding?

I've been under the impression it would stay trapped. but the GM instructions say it reduces time bleeding and is why I asked.