Maintenance items for the win and the joys of rust free work!

[B-train]

I've decided to do a career change which means I gave up a company truck and will now get paid to use my own vehicle. My 2008 Denali will go from beater/overlanding/extra vehicle to a daily driver now. Other than it being old-man gold in color, I really enjoy it. So, I decided to tackle some basic items for longevity, better ride, and maybe some more mpg's.

First: put in all 4 oxygen sensors (no codes ever present) based on other's input here since it has 183K on the originals. That made a difference in the test drive - positive win! I then replaced the MAP sensor gasket and threw in a new Delphi MAF. I've had a somewhat rough idle (feels like a cammed motor occasionally) that I felt could be addressed. The MAF sensor helped smooth that out and the overall driving characteristics seem more refined. I now have spare parts for the MURPHY KIT that I know are good .

Second I bought GM OE lower control arms from Rock Auto (bend over without lube....). Since the originals lasted 183k with only minimal play on either side, I figured just go for it and then it's done. I also bought new sway bar links and bushings (another recommendation from here).

This is where the rust free REALLY was nice. All the hardware came apart easily (axle shaft, LCA bolts, struts, etc). It was so nice to just pull stuff apart, and put it back together. No torch needed!. Even the O2 sensors popped right out without any fuss.

Now that it's back together and road tested, it feels like a new truck! The ride is so smooth and quiet now over bumps in the road. What a difference some bushings make. To be honest, replacing sway bar bushings has never been on my radar, but is now for sure. What a simple way to improve the ride.

Along with new vented rotors and pads all the way around, she's ready to hit the road. Next week I'm hoping to replace the RMS and finally be able to park on concrete like a normal person....LOL

 

[PG01]

I've decided to do a career change which means I gave up a company truck and will now get paid to use my own vehicle. My 2008 Denali will go from beater/overlanding/extra vehicle to a daily driver now. Other than it being old-man gold in color, I really enjoy it. So, I decided to tackle some basic items for longevity, better ride, and maybe some more mpg's.

First: put in all 4 oxygen sensors (no codes ever present) based on other's input here since it has 183K on the originals. That made a difference in the test drive - positive win! I then replaced the MAP sensor gasket and threw in a new Delphi MAF. I've had a somewhat rough idle (feels like a cammed motor occasionally) that I felt could be addressed. The MAF sensor helped smooth that out and the overall driving characteristics seem more refined. I now have spare parts for the MURPHY KIT that I know are good .

Second I bought GM OE lower control arms from Rock Auto (bend over without lube....). Since the originals lasted 183k with only minimal play on either side, I figured just go for it and then it's done. I also bought new sway bar links and bushings (another recommendation from here).

This is where the rust free REALLY was nice. All the hardware came apart easily (axle shaft, LCA bolts, struts, etc). It was so nice to just pull stuff apart, and put it back together. No torch needed!. Even the O2 sensors popped right out without any fuss.

Now that it's back together and road tested, it feels like a new truck! The ride is so smooth and quiet now over bumps in the road. What a difference some bushings make. To be honest, replacing sway bar bushings has never been on my radar, but is now for sure. What a simple way to improve the ride.

Along with new vented rotors and pads all the way around, she's ready to hit the road. Next week I'm hoping to replace the RMS and finally be able to park on concrete like a normal person....LOL

Whaddya want a medal? So wut your stuff is ‘rust free’…. Keep bragging about it, geez… some people..

Pete from NY (home of the salty briney pot hole infested over-tolled roads)

 

[B-train]

LOL. It's not very often in the midwest that big/little items cooperate without heat, or vibration, persuasion. I'm going to bask in this for awhile......

 

[mikez71]

Gotta do my sway bushings too, I hope that's what squeaks when cold. Already got some Moogs with fabric lining somewhere...

Rear main next week, Whoa!!.. Would take me a year or more to work up the courage.. even then I might not do it..

Which reminds me, I have a leak! Thought I fixed it when I replaced the oil cooler block off gasket. Was bone dry for months, now oily again.
Even after replacing block off with oil cooler lines... Must be a new leak..

 

[B-train]

Yeesh....I hate leaks. I have been dealing with this getting progressively worse for the last 3 years.......so I've had time to work up to it. It doesn't look fun, but hopefully with a lift and second set of hands it will go easier. It may be easier to just return the parts to Amazon and buy a diaper for it LOL

 

[B-train]

I remember a customer years back that had an old crown vic (mid to late 90's) that had a RMS, or oil pan gasket, leak so bad the whole underside of the car was continually rust-proofed. It even covered the rear bumper and trunk face by the lights with an oil film. He lived on a gravel road, and parked on gravel, and gave zero F's. Oil was cheaper than labor in his mind. It never rusted out though.

 

[mikez71]

Yea I was being way optimistic saying 1 year.

3 years sounds about right!

 

[petethepug]

08 Denali for company vehicle, that’s fun. When I used TurboTax for our 08 YXL Denali as the work vehicle, the deduction was huuggge. The dealership costs may have been covered by a service contract, can’t be sure tho.

Order your oem heater hose replacement parts off rock auto if you haven’t yet. They’re impossible to get when you need them on the spot. Ironically, the dealerships always have them for $200 each.

 

[B-train]

08 Denali for company vehicle, that’s fun. When I used TurboTax for our 08 YXL Denali as the work vehicle, the deduction was huuggge. The dealership costs may have been covered by a service contract, can’t be sure tho.

Order your oem heater hose replacement parts off rock auto if you haven’t yet. They’re impossible to get when you need them on the spot. Ironically, the dealerships always have them for $200 each.

Good info. I think they were replaced prior to me taking ownership, but it doesn't hurt to have them on hand. I purposely keep 5/8 silicone hose (plus other sizes) and clamps in my Murphy Kit in case I need to make a quick repair. Years of field service has honed the MacGyver skills.

Also noted about the expenses...... Having certain chef skills are pertinent to keeping the recipe right.

 

[petethepug]

Long drives? Time to keep the dip & salsa for chips and a few cold ones handy. Sold our Denali before I had a chance to get mine.

PG-TEC AutoKool CC-07 Console Cooler for Chevrolet & GMC Series 900 Tr | MrCanBus

mrcanbus.com

 

[B-train]

Just got done with the RMS.......and it was fine. The housing gasket was leaking like a stuck pig......oil everywhere, crankshaft was dry. Put in a new billet oil bar bell as well since I was there.

The process was straightforward......Basically remove EVERYTHING from the engine back and Viola! The exhaust nuts all needed the torch to get off even though there was no rust anywhere. Now they are all anti-seazed to no end, but hopefully won't have to worry about them again.

New trans filter and gasket (NAPA BTW has a great kit with new OEM style gasket for about $60). New fluid in trans and TC. Cleaned the rust from the output shaft to TC - amazing how much there was just from 183k of gear chatter. Lubed and reassembled.

Drove about 20 miles and parked it on its diaper in the garage. Checked with light and free of drips and dry!!!! Now I can park on concrete again like a normal person.

Between this repair, new fluids, new sensors, new brakes, and new bushings, it's wonderful. All in for parts was about $1500. Good investment in my book seeing as I haven't put more than $500 ($1100 with tires) into it in 3 years and 42k miles. It's been paid for since day one.

Gottal love being able to keep good stuff on the road. Should be good for another 100k hopefully.

 

[mattbta]

Drove about 20 miles and parked it on its diaper in the garage. Checked with light and free of drips and dry!!!! Now I can park on concrete again like a normal person.

I brought a piece of cardboard to my dad's when I went to help because I didn't want to leave a massive spot. Now that the cover and main is done, I also can attest how nice it is to park like a normal person.

Good job.

 

[89Suburban]

Just got done with the RMS.......and it was fine. The housing gasket was leaking like a stuck pig......oil everywhere, crankshaft was dry. Put in a new billet oil bar bell as well since I was there.

The process was straightforward......Basically remove EVERYTHING from the engine back and Viola! The exhaust nuts all needed the torch to get off even though there was no rust anywhere. Now they are all anti-seazed to no end, but hopefully won't have to worry about them again.

New trans filter and gasket (NAPA BTW has a great kit with new OEM style gasket for about $60). New fluid in trans and TC. Cleaned the rust from the output shaft to TC - amazing how much there was just from 183k of gear chatter. Lubed and reassembled.

Drove about 20 miles and parked it on its diaper in the garage. Checked with light and free of drips and dry!!!! Now I can park on concrete again like a normal person.

Between this repair, new fluids, new sensors, new brakes, and new bushings, it's wonderful. All in for parts was about $1500. Good investment in my book seeing as I haven't put more than $500 ($1100 with tires) into it in 3 years and 42k miles. It's been paid for since day one.

Gottal love being able to keep good stuff on the road. Should be good for another 100k hopefully.

Very happy for you. Thanks for sharing.

 

[Mickey_7106]

Glad I stumbled into this thread as I also have a "choppy" idle at stop lights. I thought maybe an engine mount was bad (replaced driver side only 2 years ago) My truck has about 154k miles, so it due for some maintenance. For the O2 sensors, which brand did you go with? I see quite a few options on rockauto

 

[solli5pack]

Glad I stumbled into this thread as I also have a "choppy" idle at stop lights. I thought maybe an engine mount was bad (replaced driver side only 2 years ago) My truck has about 154k miles, so it due for some maintenance. For the O2 sensors, which brand did you go with? I see quite a few options on rockauto

Just a heads up. From what I understand the D/S mount fixes the clunk and the P/S mount clears up the vibrations. I've had the stoplight rumble on my Burb for a few years now and replacing the P/S mount is on my list if things to do.

 

[B-train]

Glad I stumbled into this thread as I also have a "choppy" idle at stop lights. I thought maybe an engine mount was bad (replaced driver side only 2 years ago) My truck has about 154k miles, so it due for some maintenance. For the O2 sensors, which brand did you go with? I see quite a few options on rockauto

I just went to Amazon and bought GM OE. 2 upstream, 2 downstream. You'll get Denso for upstream, and TNK for downstream (I was concerned from other posts/reviews for knock-offs, so I compared at an auto parts store and they were correct.

I would buy the MAP sensor gaskets from Amazon as well - 5 pack for $10. I also purchased a GM OE mass airflow sensor. This one was DELPHI and was about $55. All of these items combined have made for a very smooth running engine, both at idle and while driving.