Kbuskill's 2008 Burb LTZ "MOD" Thread

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Rocket Man

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Yeah, me too... I hope that I got the cutoff lines lined up properly because if not I know I will never hear the end of it from you guys... lol
How did you secure them after lining them up? I always use some epoxy on the projector nuts and then double check them the next night before baking the lenses on. I didn’t on the last set when I did the quads and I’m glad I didn’t since now I’m going to pull them apart again and swap the projectors with matching etched ones. They didn’t move though, still lined up.
 
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kbuskill

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How did you secure them after lining them up? I always use some epoxy on the projector nuts and then double check them the next night before baking the lenses on. I didn’t on the last set when I did the quads and I’m glad I didn’t since now I’m going to pull them apart again and swap the projectors with matching etched ones. They didn’t move though, still lined up.

Basically the same... I just hope everything turned out level.


I am not terribly happy with the way these DNA (Chicom) headlights fit, but it is too late now.
 
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kbuskill

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So my drivers side cutoff is nice and straight.

The passenger side, not so much.

After aiming them I tried to remove the base of the Motoholder so I could get to the nut to tighten it up more and when I tried to unscrew the tiny little screws I thought the projector may have rotated but I wasn't sure.

I ended up snapping the head off of the top screw of the Motoholder in the back of the projector because they were so tight (I guess from the heat of the projector) so I decided to leave well enough alone before I broke anything else.

It was late and I was tired and being lazy and I glued the nut in place instead of taking it back out and test fitting it again to make sure it was still level.

So now my passenger side cutoff runs up hill to the right.

At this point the only way to fix it is to bake the headlight back open and then try to get a tiny little deburring type bit in there under the bulb holder to grind the glue away so I can rotate it.

What a royal pain in the rear. I hate having to go back and redo stuff. I should have probably waited and taken my time but I didn't want to have to put the whole front-end back together and take it all back apart again.

On a brighter note I figured out the the bulb holder was touching the inner fender where it wraps around the front of the core support and causing it to not seat properly. After trimming the double layer of metal out the headlight fits alot better, still not perfect but way better than before.

No cutoff pics yet because the passenger side is crooked.

These projectors have a beautiful blue cutoff line though, even with the 5000k bulbs.

What little bit of driving I have done with them, I will say that it definitely takes some getting used to the daylight to pitch black change of the cutoff.

20210529_233303.jpg
 

Rocket Man

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That’s why I don’t plan on having anything back together for a few days. I leave the front torn apart and lenses off the headlights until I’m absolutely sure the things are level and can’t move. I’m sure you’ll figure it out. You can probably twist the projector enough by removing the lens and just grabbing it with both hands and twist. I did that once and it never moved afterwards.
 
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kbuskill

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Props to Ceasar from Lightwerkz. I sent him an email asking if the screws for the bulb holders were prone to breaking off in the back of the reflector.

He sent me an email back and said to get him a picture and he would send me a new reflector housing and screws.

So now I've got to get the headlight back out to get the picture and then when it comes in I will have to open it back up to correct the issues.
 

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Props to Ceasar from Lightwerkz. I sent him an email asking if the screws for the bulb holders were prone to breaking off in the back of the reflector.

He sent me an email back and said to get him a picture and he would send me a new reflector housing and screws.

So now I've got to get the headlight back out to get the picture and then when it comes in I will have to open it back up to correct the issues.
Be prepared if you have to remove the big nut that holds the projector in place on the Morimotos. They are designed to lock in place once they’re cranked down and the one set I tried to remove wouldn’t come off period. I talked to TRS when I couldn’t get the nuts to back off and they informed me about the locking feature and they sent me new reflectors and nuts, they’re cheap. I wasn’t going to be reusing those headlights anyway so I just cut the projectors out of the headlights with a Dremel, then I was able to remove the reflectors and replace them. So if you can’t get that nut to back off the shaft you’ll know why. I have used Acme’s projectors and those nuts came off.
 

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Be prepared if you have to remove the big nut that holds the projector in place on the Morimotos. They are designed to lock in place once they’re cranked down and the one set I tried to remove wouldn’t come off period. I talked to TRS when I couldn’t get the nuts to back off and they informed me about the locking feature and they sent me new reflectors and nuts, they’re cheap. I wasn’t going to be reusing those headlights anyway so I just cut the projectors out of the headlights with a Dremel, then I was able to remove the reflectors and replace them. So if you can’t get that nut to back off the shaft you’ll know why. I have used Acme’s projectors and those nuts came off.
They need to come up with a locking system on the nut and reflectors with a release clip/button using possibly a high temp gasket or rubber seal. It’s kinda lame how the threads are a one and done use.
I miss my 8.0s , the cutoff and color was like sex for the eyes. I had the morimoto xb 5500 hid kit.
76030C28-1A0B-4D1A-AA0A-3DE1F95720F0.jpeg

I have everything ready for the rado but I’ve been deciding on what to do exactly.
 
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kbuskill

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They need to come up with a locking system on the nut and reflectors with a release clip/button using possibly a high temp gasket or rubber seal. It’s kinda lame how the threads are a one and done use.
I miss my 8.0s , the cutoff and color was like sex for the eyes. I had the morimoto xb 5500 hid kit.View attachment 280683
I have everything ready for the rado but I’ve been deciding on what to do exactly.

I have the 8.0s and Lightwerkz lists the bulbs as Morimoto XB 5000k... to be honest I am thinking about changing out to the 6000k bulbs because the ones I have look more like halogen color than the bright white like yours.

Maybe the bulbs just haven't "burnt" in good yet.
 

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They need to come up with a locking system on the nut and reflectors with a release clip/button using possibly a high temp gasket or rubber seal. It’s kinda lame how the threads are a one and done use.
I miss my 8.0s , the cutoff and color was like sex for the eyes. I had the morimoto xb 5500 hid kit.View attachment 280683
I have everything ready for the rado but I’ve been deciding on what to do exactly.
I agree. At least the Acme’s seem to come back off. I mean, even if the nuts lock on like with the Morimoto’s if they aren’t tight enough you can still grab the projector and twist it so what’s the point. Other than they don’t want you to be able to reuse either the projectors or the headlights or both.
 
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kbuskill

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I agree. At least the Acme’s seem to come back off. I mean, even if the nuts lock on like with the Morimoto’s if they aren’t tight enough you can still grab the projector and twist it so what’s the point. Other than they don’t want you to be able to reuse either the projectors or the headlights or both.

I am currently waiting for the replacement parts to come in. When they get here I will try removing the nut and see what happens.

I requested a new reflector housing, lock nut, and Motoholder base/w screws.

I hate that I will have to bake that light back open, BUT at least I know what to expect this time.

Have any of you ever had a problem getting the little tiny bulb holder screws out of the projector?

As mentioned earlier... 1 screw head broke completely off, 1 screw is evidently stripped in the housing because when I try to remove it, it just turns but doesn't come out. The 3rd screw head is stripped.

They are very small and delicate evidently.

I removed them to install the projectors into the headlight housings and I didn't want to tighten the lock nut up too much so I just snugged them and installed the bulb holders.

After having the projectors on for a while, while trying to level them, I brought them back inside to remove the bulb holder base so I could get to the lock nut to tighten it and that is when the head broke off of the top screw of the bulb holder.

I don't know if it was because of the heat or what but I will definitely be more careful with this next one.

Do you guys install the bulb holders while leveling or leave them off until you tighten the lock nut?

I can't imagine trying to hold the bulb in place while trying to level the projector.

Any tips would be appreciated.
 

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I am currently waiting for the replacement parts to come in. When they get here I will try removing the nut and see what happens.

I requested a new reflector housing, lock nut, and Motoholder base/w screws.

I hate that I will have to bake that light back open, BUT at least I know what to expect this time.

Have any of you ever had a problem getting the little tiny bulb holder screws out of the projector?

As mentioned earlier... 1 screw head broke completely off, 1 screw is evidently stripped in the housing because when I try to remove it, it just turns but doesn't come out. The 3rd screw head is stripped.

They are very small and delicate evidently.

I removed them to install the projectors into the headlight housings and I didn't want to tighten the lock nut up too much so I just snugged them and installed the bulb holders.

After having the projectors on for a while, while trying to level them, I brought them back inside to remove the bulb holder base so I could get to the lock nut to tighten it and that is when the head broke off of the top screw of the bulb holder.

I don't know if it was because of the heat or what but I will definitely be more careful with this next one.

Do you guys install the bulb holders while leveling or leave them off until you tighten the lock nut?

I can't imagine trying to hold the bulb in place while trying to level the projector.

Any tips would be appreciated.
I’ve never had a problem. They’re #1 Phillips. And yes I put the holders on to hold the bulbs while I level the projectors. They thread in super easy, so I’m thinking maybe you used the wrong screws. I know there’s always leftover screws when I’m bone. Those are super fine machine thread iirc, and I’m sure they’re #1 Phillips head.
 

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Ok, I just remembered I have a set of Acme’s here waiting on a swap out ( long story) and I remember they use the exact same screws as the Morimotos so I pulled a screw out so you can see. I have removed them from projectors that have been in use a long time too, no issues.

image.jpg image.jpg
 
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kbuskill

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Ok, I just remembered I have a set of Acme’s here waiting on a swap out ( long story) and I remember they use the exact same screws as the Morimotos so I pulled a screw out so you can see. I have removed them from projectors that have been in use a long time too, no issues.

View attachment 280739 View attachment 280740

My Morimoto 8.0s came with the Motoholder/bulb holders already attached to the back of the projectors so I just removed the screws they had in them and then reinstalled the same screws.
 

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My Morimoto 8.0s came with the Motoholder/bulb holders already attached to the back of the projectors so I just removed the screws they had in them and then reinstalled the same screws.
Weird that you had problems with them. Did they thread in easy? Maybe they got cross-threaded. The holders are keyed to only go on one way, could you have got them turned so the holes didn’t quite line up? Two of the holes are closer together.
 
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kbuskill

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Weird that you had problems with them. Did they thread in easy? Maybe they got cross-threaded. The holders are keyed to only go on one way, could you have got them turned so the holes didn’t quite line up? Two of the holes are closer together.

They went in fine and the holes lined up. It was like after they got hot they seized up.
 
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kbuskill

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I probably should just wait until the parts come in and they are fixed, but when I pulled the lights again the other day to trim some metal behind them and get them to fit a little better to the body, I inserted a big screwdriver into the back of the projector housing where the bulb goes and tried to rotate it. It evidently rotated a little bit, so little in fact that I didn't even realize it moved... until tonight when I went out after dark to readjust the height of the headlights and discovered that it is pretty much level now.

It may not be 100% perfectly level but it is definitely way better than before.

I just wanted to post these pics to show the color of the bulbs and the pretty colors of the cutoff lines...
rps20210601_224554_516.jpg

The building is actually an off white or light tan color so probably not the best to show the color of the bulbs but it is the closest place for me to go to level the lights on a big wall.

And here is a picture showing the colors of the cutoff lines...
rps20210601_224757_192.jpg


I think the problem that I have with the color is that I am used to seeing my 6k HIDs that I had in the original housings and these are obviously 5k so they are less white/blue.
 

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I have the 8.0s and Lightwerkz lists the bulbs as Morimoto XB 5000k... to be honest I am thinking about changing out to the 6000k bulbs because the ones I have look more like halogen color than the bright white like yours.

Maybe the bulbs just haven't "burnt" in good yet.
Yea I buy all my stuff from lightwerkz now too. I think the 5500 was a perfect color, but if there’s no option 6000k would look better than 5000k. And I’ve never heard the term of bulbs being “burnt” in
 

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