just bought a 2000 Yukon that need some help to get back on the road

[Ronzxcvb]

it needed some work so I got it cheap ($1500) but might need a lot more than I planned on
It needed new wheel bearings but I cant get the hubs free from the knuckle
I soaked it with penetrating oil so far I tried hammering, wedging a extension on a bolt and turning the wheel, removed 2 studs and used bolts to drive it out then picked up a puller with slide hammer
I reread the removal in the manual is there possibly anything besides the 3 bolts that could be keeping it in?

 

[Ronzxcvb]

I wonder if someone put green lock tight on the splines?
think putting the bolts in part way and using an air hammer on them would work?

 

[02Burgundybeast]

Is it 2wd or 4wd? You might be better off just replacing the entire spindle and hub. Just pull the whole spindle off and not worry about reusing it. Sounds like its in rough shape as is.

 

[Ronzxcvb]

Its 4wd and I was hoping to just get it going and replacing more of the front end after I moved mainly just because of its age but it has probably taken me longer just trying to get this apart than it would have taken to replace everything
only looking at about $450 to replace everything
really wanted to get it on the road this week though probably better just waiting for the parts
to show up next week though
I also broke the abs sensor would it cause any problems if I drove it just enough to warm it up to change the transfer case fluid while I'm waiting on parts?

 

[02Burgundybeast]

The abs and wheel speed sensor will cause the ABS light to illuminate but you should be able to drive it. You will notice the light flashing and the brakes activating the abs depending on how the computer responds.

 

[Ronzxcvb]

cool I can change the transfer case and transition fluid while I'm waiting on parts
and I did see another way someone on here used to get the hubs off
he pulled the driveshafts and drilled and taped a rotor to drive it out

 

[#1taho]

If your in the northern states to have to get a good chisel and hammer on it. The rust is horrible and makes it very tuff to got off. Keep trying and you will get it. I am in southern Ontario and I had the same problem.

 

[massivespl]

Had to use a torch to get my hubs off. Took the shop like 3 hours. Glad I paid someone else to do mine lol.

 

[Ronzxcvb]

now I wish that I took it in to get it done
but still paying to have it done just not nearly as much as it would of cost to take it in
I have a bad back and one of my friends kid was supposed to do all the physical stuff but he got a new girlfriend and now hes hunting so I have been doing it by myself and after 3 hits with the slide hammer I called someone from Craig list that does odd jobs
I have a kit coming from 1a that has new upper control arms lower bushing and tie rods
I probably should have ordered the knuckles right away but figured with the holiday it probably wouldn't get shipped until Monday anyways
going to have him pull the shafts on Friday so I can try to drive them out with bolts

 

[fresh350]

Had to use a torch to get my hubs off. Took the shop like 3 hours. Glad I paid someone else to do mine lol.

^^ this... get a bottle of mapp gas and a torch head that screws onto it and heat the knuckle around the bearing and tons of PB Blaster or deep creep. Once it's pretty hot start beating on it from both sides, reheating as necessary. It's also a good idea to pop the tie rod out so you can turn the knuckle back and forth so you can get good hits on it. I've had them to the point of falling apart and having to use my air chisel to break the rest out

 

[Ronzxcvb]

Doug I'm glad you said that because I just bought the second most expensive map torch they had in the store
to replace my 20+ year old cheap propane one that was working like crap
And was really starting to worry that I was spending too much of my budget on new tools and I should have just cleaned my old cheap one

I have it put back together going to take it for a drive just long enough to warm everything up so I can change the transfer case and transmission fluids and get her in my garage and take it all apart again

 

[Ronzxcvb]

THE HUBS OUR OUT
well sorta one still has the drive shaft still stuck in it but its out of the knuckle
I went with drilling the rotor and driving them out with some 7/16" bolts
the original way I found on this site they taped the rotors
I just used a nut and washer held in place with a wrench
it worked really good
I also changed the transfer case fluid (get the pump with the 2 hoses it worked great after messing around for like 45 minutes and having the hose come off the bottle twice and getting fluid everywhere I picked up a pump and we were done in like 5 minutes)
also have it in the garage now
If anyone knows any better way to get the axle shaft out of the hub besides with a puller and hammer please let me know
and I want to Thank everyone for the help and advice it is greatly appreciated

 

[Ronzxcvb]

only took my friend about 2 and a half hours with a slide hammer while I either heated or hit it with a mini sledge to get the 1/2 shaft free from the hub
it really didn't look like it was extremely rusty or anything before I started but nothing wants to come off without a fight
so I'm giving up on any preventative repairs until after I move just going to take the new stuff down with me
have the drivers side done new hub and 1/2 shaft
I had to put on the old pads (that were like new) because the new ones that came in the kit didn't fit
they are only about 1/4" -3/8" to long
1a only had 1 kit with calipers rotors and pads offered for my Yukon
did GMC use different calipers on the 2000 Yukon's?