Is this just an oil filter gasket leak or is there something else that would pool oil around the oil filter?

[j91z28d1]

Unlikely. The bolt is steel and the hole is aluminum.

honestly these soft metal metric bolts gm is using feel softer than aluminum threads. they pop at snug haha

 

[wjburken]

Well, ok, here goes. If you want to try and just rig it and know that if it does not work you will need a new oil pan, try this.

Match the length of bolt or just a hair shorter, and use the same size bolt but use a different thread pitch. For instance, if is an 8mm bolt and is a 1.50 pitch, use an 8mm bolt with a 1.25 pitch, or vice versa. You will have to force that cross thread in there and hope the bolt sucks down the plate and slows or stops the oil leak. That is why I recommended a shorter bolt if can. You are threading into aluminum but may have enough thread strength left to hold the bolt. May even go with a equal size fractional bolt and run that in there. If was me, I would just do a new pan but I am a thousandaire and not every one is able to afford the new pan all of a sudden or even a used pan. Also, if not mechanically inclined and don't have the "TOUCH" to feel what is happening when you try this, a shop can attempt but if was my shop, I would say, fix it right or not at all.

There....are you vultures happy now. I spilled my "hillbilly" fix for this. But, sometimes poor people have poor ways.

 

[Geotrash]

Well, ok, here goes. If you want to try and just rig it and know that if it does not work you will need a new oil pan, try this.

Match the length of bolt or just a hair shorter, and use the same size bolt but use a different thread pitch. For instance, if is an 8mm bolt and is a 1.50 pitch, use an 8mm bolt with a 1.25 pitch, or vice versa. You will have to force that cross thread in there and hope the bolt sucks down the plate and slows or stops the oil leak. That is why I recommended a shorter bolt if can. You are threading into aluminum but may have enough thread strength left to hold the bolt. May even go with a equal size fractional bolt and run that in there. If was me, I would just do a new pan but I am a thousandaire and not every one is able to afford the new pan all of a sudden or even a used pan. Also, if not mechanically inclined and don't have the "TOUCH" to feel what is happening when you try this, a shop can attempt but if was my shop, I would say, fix it right or not at all.

There....are you vultures happy now. I spilled my "hillbilly" fix for this. But, sometimes poor people have poor ways.

Ain't nothing wrong with that idea at all. It reminds me of one of my favorite quotes: "If you can't fix it, force it. If it breaks, it needed replacing anyway."

 

[mikez71]

Whatever you do, get a new gasket.
I tried tightening old one, still leaked.
New gasket fixed it.

 

[Geotrash]

Whatever you do, get a new gasket.
I tried tightening old one, still leaked.
New gasket fixed it.

100%. And preferably use the OEM design, which Dorman also uses. I tried a Fel-Pro in that spot and never could get it to seal up, but the Dorman did the trick.

 

[opfor2]

Well, ok, here goes. If you want to try and just rig it and know that if it does not work you will need a new oil pan, try this.

Match the length of bolt or just a hair shorter, and use the same size bolt but use a different thread pitch. For instance, if is an 8mm bolt and is a 1.50 pitch, use an 8mm bolt with a 1.25 pitch, or vice versa. You will have to force that cross thread in there and hope the bolt sucks down the plate and slows or stops the oil leak. That is why I recommended a shorter bolt if can. You are threading into aluminum but may have enough thread strength left to hold the bolt. May even go with a equal size fractional bolt and run that in there. If was me, I would just do a new pan but I am a thousandaire and not every one is able to afford the new pan all of a sudden or even a used pan. Also, if not mechanically inclined and don't have the "TOUCH" to feel what is happening when you try this, a shop can attempt but if was my shop, I would say, fix it right or not at all.

There....are you vultures happy now. I spilled my "hillbilly" fix for this. But, sometimes poor people have poor ways.

Now does the oil cooler attach to the block or oil pan? It looks like it goes into the block.

 

[OR VietVet]

Now does the oil cooler attach to the block or oil pan? It looks like it goes into the block.

Pan.

 

[Geotrash]

Pan.

+1. It goes into the pan that just happens to look like the block in that spot.

 

[Just Fishing]

I had a leak on my wife's Buick once, turned out to be some grit I didn't get cleaned off of the sealing surface during an oil change.
that filter has one of the dumbest designs I have seen, super hard to get in there, and it's asking for gunk to get built up on this little "shelf" that's there to help oil not land on the exhaust/engine.

It was pretty bad though, I caught it on my security camera, big ol puddle in the driveway while she warmed the engine up.
I drove to her work to fix it; I just saw either a fire happening or her running low on Oil.

For oil changes, I make extra triple sure it's a nice clean surface.
Expecially on her car.

I had a pretty bad one on my Vette once, seems to happen with a batch of K&N filters at the time.
Fixed by switching to Wix.

Now I'm pretty much just using AC Delco filters due to what I believe is a superior flow.

Final was with the Jeep, super questionable rocker arms when I rebuilt the engine.
Those AC Delco filters seem to keep it quieter than other brands like M1, and Wix.
(Plus, the AC Delco filters run a few bucks cheaper than a nice WIX).