Intake manifold gasket replacement

[withac]

I started this in the tech thread but it really shouldn't be there since it's not explaining how to do something, it's asking how. So, sorry for the double post.

Okay, I'm about ready to sack up and try this. I've been looking through the repair manual and have some questions.

1. The Chilton’s manual says to remove the fuel injectors, fuel rails, and TB from the intake manifold before removing the manifold. It then says they are usually removed together as one unit but taking them off separately helps prevent damage to the injectors when the manifold is removed. So, you guys that have done this, what is the best way? Take them off separate or as one unit?

2. If I do remove the fuel rails and injectors from the intake manifold won’t I need new o-rings for the injectors?

3. If I take them off as a full assembly I’ll still need the fuel line disconnect tool, right?

4. In the torque specs it says Step one, 44 in-lbs. Step two, 89 in-lbs. The instructions don’t list a step one and two. Could this mean I tighten the intake manifold bolts once to 44 then go back over them again tightening them to 89?

5. It says to chase the threads in the bolt holes before reassembling. Is this necessary?

It doesn't mention any kind of gasket adhesive. I assume you don't use any?

Thanks

 

[JKmotorsports]

Don't waste your time removing the rails and injectors. The chances of messing up the injectors are minimal. Just be careful where you set your intake down and how you handle it. If you do remove them, you can usually re-use the o-rings if they don't look dried and cracked. Whether you remove the assembly as whole or part, you'll still need the disconnect tool for the fuel lines.
When torquing the bolts, do the first pass to the specified tq then go back again in the same sequence and tighten them down more to the final specified tq amount.
It's a good idea to chase the threads and also make sure they are clean. If there is anything in there, you risk cracking the head around the bolt when you torque the bolts, especially if there is any liquid (water, coolant, etc), as liquid doesn't compress. When you remove the manifold, tape up the intake ports on the heads and clean up around the top of the block and heads.
You don't need any type of adhesive on these particular gaskets. All in all, it's a fairly easy job, especially compared to Gen I SBCs.

 

[withac]

Thanks tons JK. Don't you chase down thread is you think they may have gotten dinged a little and might not be true or is there more to it? I wouldn't think these would be dinged up. I don't have a tap set but if this is a must I think I can find one I can borrow. I don't have an air compressor but I do have one of those cans you use to blow out your computer. I can use that to blow out the bolt holes.

 

[JKmotorsports]

Be careful with a tap. Sometimes you can take away too much material and not have enough left on the threads to catch, then you can end up stripping out the threads completely when you tq down the bolt. ARP makes a set of thread chasing taps just for this purpose.
When you go to blow out the holes, make sure the intake ports on the heads are taped up.

 

[withac]

So can I get by without tapping them? I mean if they aren't damaged what is the point?

 

[JKmotorsports]

It's mainly to make sure no debris is stuck in between the threads which can ruin the threads and also throw off the torque readings.

 

[withac]

Thanks again JK. Can you visually inspect the bolt holes or could the possible debree be too small to see?

 

[JKmotorsports]

You can try to see if you notice anything, but the smaller debris particles stuck in between the threads can be hard to notice. A lot of times you can get by and be okay w/o chasing, but it's just a safegaurd. It would suck if you were torquing down the last bolt and then it strips. Then you have to pull the whole intake back off and repair the stripped threads.

 

[TheFuzz]

You can try to see if you notice anything, but the smaller debris particles stuck in between the threads can be hard to notice. A lot of times you can get by and be okay w/o chasing, but it's just a safegaurd. It would suck if you were torquing down the last bolt and then it strips. Then you have to pull the whole intake back off and repair the stripped threads.

Thats what I did in the air force for 7 years...I worked in the aircraft metals technology shop (machining/welding/fabrication/******-fixing), and when I wasn't actually working on F-16 parts, I was going out to the line pulling stripped screws out of the underwing panels because the crew chiefs strip the shit out of them on a regular basis...one screw out of 15 holding up an entire panel. Precationary measures are the way to go.

JK, if he doesn't want to buy a thread chasing tap set, could he just run the bolts back down the holes without the intake on the block and see if anything gets pushed down? Then go in and clean it out before putting the manifold on?

 

[withac]

Thanks guys. I'll need to ask my mechanic if he'll let me borrow his fuel line disconnect tool. As long as I'm at it I can see if he has a tap he'll let me borrow. If not I know a few other guys that do. I'm also friends with the Ag teacher at the high school. If he has taps I know he'd let me borrow them.

 

[withac]

Got another question. Couldn't find a fuel line detachment tool so I bought a set for 8 bucks where I got my gasket. Now I can't find a tap. Looks like they aren't very expensive so I think I'll just buy some. The manual doesn't say what size the intake manifold mounting bolts are. Checker has a couple of sets for like 8 bucks, one metric one SAE. Are these things SAE? The set has five sizes, I would assume one of the five should be the right size? Any idea exactly what size the bolt is?

 

[withac]

Okay, I can see why you guys that like to take your TB's off to clean them often do the TB coolant bypass mod. That hose behind the alternator was a P.I.T.A to get off!!!!!