It would be like installing a control board that uses locating dowels, but you miss with the alignment of the dowel, then when you tighten down the board, the dowels crush the board, instead of the board sitting flush. It's super common and I have done it before. Maybe I say it's super common to everyone that will listen, simply because I did it myself, and want to make it sound super possible, but I have read about it happening lots as well.
Input or advice from others on cam swap for 6.2L 2011 Yukon Denali
- Thread starter Denaliz
- Start date
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I watched some videos of someone installing a vvt cam explaining that the cam pin goes into the oblong hole in the phaser then slowly turning the cam till the timing mark lines up at the 6 o’clock position and the crank timing mark in the 12 o’clock position? I also found a com cams written step by step guide, that mentioned slightly pulling the came out to see check if the pins going into the right spot and following it up by checking it with a straight edge after installing the timing chain.
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So I just got my cam swap done today and went to start the truck and I’m getting a lot of lifter
Noise and no oil pressure. I put a new green melling oil pickup seal on, and replaced the pressure relief. I just read that the rubber seal can tear if it’s not seated to the pump before tightening the bolt…which I do t think I did… I think I let the bolt guide the pick up into the pump…any ideas?
Did you do anything to ensure the pump was primed before cranking the engine? There are a couple of options for this. One is to remove the plug on the drivers side just behind the timing cover and pump some oil into it. It's the galley for the oil pump so pushing oil into it will prime the pump. Another option would have been to take the cover off the pump before install and smear some grease in there to seal the rotor against the cover so it would develop pressure right away.
I didn’t use grease, I used a bunch of assembly lube
which I’m sure just leak back into the pan. When I put the oil pick up into the pump I had the pan completely off and the oil pump bolts were slightly loose, tightened the pickup to the pump then torqued the bolts last. I think I need to get that plug out..I didn’t use grease, I used a bunch of assembly lube
I didn’t use grease, I used a bunch of assembly lube
I tried loosening the plug with a long t handle M8 hex and the plug started to strip out… so next option is to pull the balancer and timing cover… where and how much grease do I apply to the oil pump?
I ended up getting the plug out primed the oil pump with about a quart of oil with a hand pump. Fired it back up and started building oil pressure 40psi ish and smoothed out . I buttoned up a few things and went to fire it back up and lost its prime… so I’m assuming the o ring isn’t sealing?
swathdiver
Full Access Member
Add 2 more quarts to test that out. I thought our motors took the orange o-ring? 12584922 or Fel-Pro 72401. Double check.
Seal - Oil Pump Pick Up Tube - 20.69 ID - 4.20 Width
The melling kit I ordered on rockauto came with 2 O rings one for tapered (green) or one with a groove (black) pick up tubes. I have a orange one that came with the timing cover gasket kit that I could use. Does the diverter need to be changed too? Its freakin me out that i
Keep firing it up for a few seconds with no oil pressure, i think I should drop the pan to arrow and check it out…
If you installed the green O-ring, then that’s the right one. Needs to go together with motor oil so that it doesn’t get nicked.
That said, I think your hypothesis is probably correct.
swathdiver
Full Access Member
Do you mean the relief valve that goes in the pan? I would change it if it were mine.
OK, I see that the Melling Green o-ring is the correct one also, thanks Dave!
pump not holding prime can be from the o'ring leaking?
huh.
are you guys taking pumps apart to pack them with grease? I thought I heard from millings they don't want you taking their pumps apart?
I seem to remember there was some stuff in here, but it's an hour long and no one gives time stamps.
huh.
are you guys taking pumps apart to pack them with grease? I thought I heard from millings they don't want you taking their pumps apart?
I seem to remember there was some stuff in here, but it's an hour long and no one gives time stamps.
There’s a diverter behind the oil galley plug, the pressure relief was changed when I dropped the pan. The front diff isn’t hooked up yet so I guess the next step would be to drop the pan and pickup tube and check that o ring..
I seen that video too. Im running the oem pump and I don’t plan on using grease. A buddy came over and helped me get the oil galley plug out.
so heres my theory, we removed the accessory belt drive to reach the the plug. After getting the plug out we primed about a quart of oil into the system using a hand pump like for refilling differentials or boat lower units. less than a minute after that he plug back in and I fired it up without the belt on and that’s was the only time I had oil pressure. It didn’t buildup as fast as I thought (few seconds) and it reach low to mid 40 psi and let it run for about a minute ish. After shutting it down we re hooked up the accessory bracket and put the belt on, went to fire ut back up and no oil pressure again. Pulled everything to reprint the pump and put 1 1.5 quarts through it the same way and put ut back together same results. I’m no expert by any means but I feel like there’s got to be a air leak somewhere possibly the O ring? I did take the oil pump cover bolts off the pump because I thought I had too, which later I found out wasn’t necessary but I did torque everything to the recommended values. Any recommendations would be greatly appreciated Im kind of freaking out a little because it’s my daily driver and I’ve had it tied up in the garage for nearly a week. Should I put a new pump on? Just try a new O ring? Thanks in advance
swathdiver
Full Access Member
If you submerge the o-ring with 2 more quarts of oil and the pressure comes up you'll have your answer.
I had it running with 40psi of oil pressure for a solid minute or two, wouldn’t that be enough time to maintain the prime? It only took maybe 10-15 mins to button up a few thing’s before trying again and it was back to no I’ll pressure. Im no expert but I do have a extensive professional hvac hydronic background and this situation feels like something isn’t making a good seal if it keeps draining back into the pan. Does the pump rotor need to be installed in a specific way?
Just to be clear, I didn't "pack" it with grease. I only slathered a light coat on the side of the rotor to help promote better suction at startup. It was a method recommended by someone on the LS1 Tech forum. Worked great for me.
I didn’t mean to offend your technique that worked for you, your detailed walkthrough post was really helpful. Since at one point I had pressure for nearly 2 mins or so, what would you do if you were in my situation?
swathdiver
Full Access Member
I don't know.
Oh my goodness! No offense taken in the slightest. Just trying to be clear about what I did for you and future readers.
If I were in your shoes, I would be very cautious about starting it without pressure, and find the root cause, which is exactly what you're doing. You could try James' trick of adding 2 extra quarts which should be enough to submerge the o-ring - especially if you can get the back end up on jack stands. If you do, crank it over by hand with a wrench a few times before you crank it.
But since you have the front diff out, I think I would drop the pan if I were in your shoes, and get a look around. Check that o-ring and make sure it's seated right and undamaged. Use clean motor oil on it when you put it back together. Also check the pickup tube and screen for any obstructions. If that doesn't solve it then I would suspect a defective pump.
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