Ideas on what else to replace while doing oil pan gasket

[McLeod Crouch]

Im changing my oil pan gasket this week, and was just wondering if there was anything else i should replace while i’m down there with everything torn apart. I am also doing the motor mount. Its a 07 4x4 and 5.3 with 179k miles.

 

[swathdiver]

Im changing my oil pan gasket this week, and was just wondering if there was anything else i should replace while i’m down there with everything torn apart. I am also doing the motor mount. Its a 07 4x4 and 5.3 with 179k miles.

Change the oil pump pick up tube o-ring. Consider blocking off or replacing the bypass valve in the oil pan. If yours has an external engine oil cooler, check the lines and block right above the oil filter and consider replacing that too.

We did ours today, dropping the diff down, loosening the bolts so it hung lower, helped run the lines out the back and then install the new ones the same way, from underneath. Since the wheel well liner is out as well as the struts and control arms, we'll pull the engine mount through there and not remove the steering shaft. Still pondering how to jack the motor, no cherry picker and differential blocks the tab on the block.

 

[donjetman]

Change the oil pump pick up tube o-ring, on my 6.2 it was Felpro 72401 or GM 12584922 - $9, also install AFM Deflector – gm#12639759 - $8.

 

[wsteele]

I would install the AFM pressure relief valve deflector as described in the service bulletin below if had not been done previously.

https://f01.justanswer.com/ebrock63...il+Consumption,+MIL+ON,+Engine+Runs+Rough.pdf.

Edit: Oops, Don was quicker on the draw..

 

[iamdub]

+1 for pickup tube O-ring and deflector.

You can't block off the pressure release valve unless you're disabling or deleting AFM.

 

[HD_LS]

+1 for pickup tube O-ring and deflector.

You can't block off the pressure release valve unless you're disabling or deleting AFM.

Good info. Do you have any more details about this. OK with AFM activation disabled, but AFM hardware still in the engine?

 

[iamdub]

Good info. Do you have any more details about this. OK with AFM activation disabled, but AFM hardware still in the engine?

That pressure release valve in the oil pan is a vent for when the AFM system activates and purges the pressurized oil from the lifters to collapse them. If it were plugged and AFM still activated, the lifters wouldn't be able to collapse when the PCM commands, resulting in misfires on four cylinders and maybe a spike in pressure elsewhere in the oil system the first time it deactivated. This could possibly damage components and/or seals. If the AFM system is non-operational (either still in place and disabled or completely deleted), then the valve isn't used and it'd essentially act as a secondary pressure regulator to the one built into the oil pump. I replaced mine with an M14-1.5 oil plug.

https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/growing-up-doesnt-have-to-suck.93510/page-55#post-1427085

 

[petethepug]

Motor mounts are like shocks, you replace all of them or it doesn’t make sense. In the case of the motor/trans mounts though, the unchanged mount will immediately be allowing the new mount to wear out at the rate the other mount(s) has failed.

The pan gasket is something you’d replace if you were doing the rear main seal. The accessibility would be there. Obviously you don’t need to do that, but others may be there right now.




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[HD_LS]

That pressure release valve in the oil pan is a vent for when the AFM system activates and purges the pressurized oil from the lifters to collapse them. If it were plugged and AFM still activated, the lifters wouldn't be able to collapse when the PCM commands, resulting in misfires on four cylinders and maybe a spike in pressure elsewhere in the oil system the first time it deactivated. This could possibly damage components and/or seals. If the AFM system is non-operational (either still in place and disabled or completely deleted), then the valve isn't used and it'd essentially act as a secondary pressure regulator to the one built into the oil pump. I replaced mine with an M14-1.5 oil plug.

https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/growing-up-doesnt-have-to-suck.93510/page-55#post-1427085

Thanks!

 

[McLeod Crouch]

Sooo i shouldn't do afm deflector

 

[wsteele]

Sooo i shouldn't do afm deflector

You should.

 

[Geotrash]

Sooo i shouldn't do afm deflector

I even have one I can send you.


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[Just Fishing]

Sooo i shouldn't do afm deflector

Do the deflector, and i would replace that pressure relief valve while your at it.
I wouldn't plug it until AFM was actually gutted, or at least deleted via a tune.
If you have just that disabler that plugs into the obd2 port, i might tread carefully.

your call though!

 

[Just Fishing]

I even have one I can send you.


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you can have mine too, i also have a new pressure relief that i removed when i did the full gut.

 

[Geotrash]

Do the deflector, and i would replace that pressure relief valve while your at it.
I wouldn't plug it until AFM was actually gutted, or at least deleted via a tune.
If you have just that disabler that plugs into the obd2 port, i might tread carefully.

your call though!

+1. You do need that relief valve if you have the AFM system, and you might as well start with a new one if you already have the pan off.


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[iamdub]

+1 for installing the deflector. If bought new, it's ~$10 and you'll have the pan off, so there's no reason not to. If you disable or delete AFM later, that valve or the deflector won't cause any harm.

 

[McLeod Crouch]

Change the oil pump pick up tube o-ring. Consider blocking off or replacing the bypass valve in the oil pan. If yours has an external engine oil cooler, check the lines and block right above the oil filter and consider replacing that too.

We did ours today, dropping the diff down, loosening the bolts so it hung lower, helped run the lines out the back and then install the new ones the same way, from underneath. Since the wheel well liner is out as well as the struts and control arms, we'll pull the engine mount through there and not remove the steering shaft. Still pondering how to jack the motor, no cherry picker and differential blocks the tab on the block.

late response but I jacked it up from the exhaust on the driver side. I believe those bolts are strong enough for that and it worked out fine. Some people use a 2x4 on the oil pan but I figured the exhaust would be better since its on that side.

 

[swathdiver]

late response but I jacked it up from the exhaust on the driver side. I believe those bolts are strong enough for that and it worked out fine. Some people use a 2x4 on the oil pan but I figured the exhaust would be better since its on that side.

With my luck I'd crack the oil pan! We pulled the differential out today and of course noticed that the mounts for the differential had a lot of play in them. They'll stay on until I rebuild the differential later in the year. Lots more room to work with the motor mounts. My girls and I just don't have the strength to get those motor mount bolts out with 3/8" drive tools. So tomorrow morning we'll go to O'Reilly's and get some 1/2" long extensions so we can put a break bar or impact on them for more leverage. Plus, the PB Blaster is soaking the bolts and nuts all night.

 

[Rocket Man]

With my luck I'd crack the oil pan! We pulled the differential out today and of course noticed that the mounts for the differential had a lot of play in them. They'll stay on until I rebuild the differential later in the year. Lots more room to work with the motor mounts. My girls and I just don't have the strength to get those motor mount bolts out with 3/8" drive tools. So tomorrow morning we'll go to O'Reilly's and get some 1/2" long extensions so we can put a break bar or impact on them for more leverage. Plus, the PB Blaster is soaking the bolts and nuts all night.

Or you could put a cheater on your 3/8 ratchet. I use half of the handle off one of my floor jacks, it’s just big enough around to fit over the handle. It’s good to have an option for when a 1/2” drive ratchet and socket won’t fit into a tight space.

 

[swathdiver]

Or you could put a cheater on your 3/8 ratchet. I use half of the handle off one of my floor jacks, it’s just big enough around to fit over the handle. It’s good to have an option for when a 1/2” drive ratchet and socket won’t fit into a tight space.

My experience has been that a cheater bar on a 3/8" drive results in a twisted off tang. O'Reilly's to the rescue again, picked up those long 1/2" drive extensions and my youngest made short work of getting the bolts out. Trouble was, she had to take care of the horses and left us for a few hours to fumble around in her absence. Replaced the driver's side mount easy enough but had to abandon the passenger side replacement of that mount until another time. We were running out of light and I could not get any combination of tools onto those top engine block bolts.

Two heat shield bolts broke on one manifold, one on the other, just spaced out the remainder. Put the differential back up and called it a night when skeeters so big they had tail numbers showed up and started chewing on us. Cross member goes back on next but today is Mother's Day. Rain in the forecast for the whole of this coming week.