How many miles are too many for you when you buy used?

[xycrazy]

Just genuinely interested in your opinion about this: When you consider buying a used truck like the Tahoe, Yukon or Escalade how many miles are you aiming for to get the "best" personal deal?
I think this is very subjective and everyone has a different view about it. So I'm really interested in your thoughts about how many miles are too many for you all. Until what mileage you pull the trigger? If the vehicle has more mileage than you wanted what would mitigate/remediate it in your opinion so that you're still going to pull the trigger?
Just trying to get some other perspectives on this.

Happy 4th!

 

[Stbentoak]

If it's a vehicle that I want to keep for say 5 plus years, I would look for one in the 30 to 50K range mileage Wise. If it's one that won't get driven much at all say less than 10,000 miles a year you probably could stretch that up to 70K. It really just depends on what the condition of the vehicle is in when you look at it there are plenty of them that are beat to crap at 30K. There are some real cream puffs out there that may have just road miles on them. Good verifiable service records help.

 

[jforb]

Depends. I bought a 2006 Tahoe with 155k on it, for $6k six years ago. Sold it with 195k for $5k 2 years ago. I think I did all right on that one. When I went looking for a replacement, I decided that since used late models cost so much, I'd buy new, so I got a Tahoe with 4 miles on it. Now I can keep it forever (it has only 24k miles after two years)

 

[15burban]

Rust is a huge factor where I live so that is more important to me then miles. The wife and I don't plan on getting rid of the vehicles we have any time soon, but when the time comes I for sure will be getting my next new older vehicle from down south. I'd rather put in a new motor and tranny then fix rust.

 

[Trey Hardy]

Just genuinely interested in your opinion about this: When you consider buying a used truck like the Tahoe, Yukon or Escalade how many miles are you aiming for to get the "best" personal deal?
I think this is very subjective and everyone has a different view about it. So I'm really interested in your thoughts about how many miles are too many for you all. Until what mileage you pull the trigger? If the vehicle has more mileage than you wanted what would mitigate/remediate it in your opinion so that you're still going to pull the trigger?
Just trying to get some other perspectives on this.

Happy 4th!

Shoot I looked at 07-13 Tahoe ltz and they were going for around the 15,000 range with 150k in the dash I found mine with 257,000 for 5,000$ loaded out all highway miles and I’ve finally put her up at 400,000 to replace the motor and really I could fix the motor but I want a excuse to built one to swap into it

 

[Marky Dissod]

... how many miles are you aiming for to get the "best" personal deal?
I think this is very subjective and everyone has a different view about it.

Before you even bother checking the odometer, read 15burban's post again about rust, structural integrity, mechanical maintenance records, etc.
All those are way more important than miles.

Know what else is not only more important, but a better criteria than miles?
Idle hours.
Combine those with the odometer for even better data.

 

[OR VietVet]

Like @Stbentoak said, the availability of service records make a big difference to me. Low mileage on a poorly maintained vehicle is worse than higher mileage on a well maintained vehicle.

 

[Pilot]

A couple of weeks ago I paid $8k for a 2015 Tahoe LTZ with 251k miles. Structurally good, was a fleet vehicle.

 

[BacDoc]

Like @Stbentoak said, the availability of service records make a big difference to me. Low mileage on a poorly maintained vehicle is worse than higher mileage on a well maintained vehicle.

I concur! I would much rather buy a high mileage truck that has service records over lower mileage. Clean truck 150k maintained with records is borderline high mileage imo.
A major concern on used trucks is rust. Some body rust may not be an issue as most body shops can handle that but frame rust is a deal breaker.

With the older models the mileage is much less important than the newer dysfunction on demand motors. I wouldn’t buy a newer model with out of warranty miles if I couldn’t get the extended GM warranty. I love the new trucks and own one myself, but they have way too much expensive tech that will eventually fail.

 

[Marky Dissod]

Clean truck 150k maintained with records is borderline high mileage

Depends on how often it was maintained;
7500 mile oil changes make me nervous UNLESS the miles are nearly all highway miles.
Did they use a quality synthetic, or Wolf's pys, or crisco / wesson / whatever?

When was the last time the transmission was serviced? How about the time before that?

 

[Bigburb3500]

Rust is a huge thing but it really depends on the use of the vehicle.
Is it a beater? Cheapest running and safe vehicle. Mileage isn’t a factor.
General use vehicle that you want something “nice?” Find one that is a DEAL. Watch the auto sites and expand to your max threshold distance for purchase and buy something that fits the bill and is a steal of a deal. Mileage affects price and value. Value is the key here and buying something that makes sense against the purchase price. Requires patience.

If you have too much money? Buy whatever you want.

 

[jb0077]

I nabbed a 2018 Tahoe Premiere with 33K a few months ago that barely had a scratch on it. I probably overpaid by about 4K, but it was worth it, in my opinion. It was the third vehicle for the previous owner's home, and they only drove it about 450 miles a month.

 

[2 liter beater]

I think it also depends on your mechanical ability and or willingness to work on it. Last year I purchased an 07 Denali XL with 270k for 3 grand. Figured by that point some big stuff had been addressed. I have to do some work for sure but now have 295 on it and a total of 5200 in it with the purchase price. Totally worth it to me.

 

[IEATZ28]

You asked for opinions so here’s mine, which is worth nothing…2007 classic and older I’m personally comfortable at 250k or less, 2007+ I’m comfortable at 150k or less. I currently drive an 06, but my wife’s last two vehicles have been 07+ and both were purchased with around 70k on the clock. I sold her suburban at 160k, and she currently drives an Escalade with 80k on it. I would rather someone take the massive depreciation hit and pay $90k for something I can buy for $28k a few years later. She tends to drive her vehicles for 4-5 years so this works for us. The question is pretty situation-specific. I’m amazed at some of the vehicles on here still trucking along at 300-400k miles! Awesome!

 

[91RS]

I care more about the condition than I care about the mileage. Most people seem to only look at the mileage. I've seen tons of low mileage vehicles that are in terrible shape. To answer your question, I bought my 2008 with 132k miles and it was a one owner. I bought my 2012 Yukon with 176k and sold it with 192k (new owners were absolutely thrilled with the condition, they said it was better than any other one they looked at and bought it on the spot). I bought the 2013 with 165k, I believe, and it has 189k on it now. I just bought a 2015 Cadillac XTS Vsport with 103k for cheap because of the mileage, but it was a one owner vehicle in incredible cosmetic condition with a huge list of service records on the Carfax and no accidents. It is nicer than almost every other XTS I've ever seen except the 2013 with 20k miles I worked on a couple of weeks ago.

That being said, I don't feel like the quality is there on the 2015 to current trucks so I don't believe I could consider one with high miles because it likely won't be in good shape. I have seen very few in good shape after being over 3-5 years old.

 

[B-train]

Yep.......what they said.

I've done it both ways. Lower mileage with a 2 year depreciation before my ownership. With me maintaining it from close to day one, I've had really good luck long term well past the 100 - 200k mark. That cost more up front, but you're buying TIME at that point (a factor in the midwest salt that is more relevant than miles).

Second option I've done is the down south/out west purchases where they had 100k+ on them (usually 140 - 160k) and went in knowing some maintenance was going to be needed. Working on rust free stuff is way more fun than midwest junk.

I guess it's a pick your poison kind of deal.

As far as mileage goes, I'm with the crowd on the up to 2006 being super dependable and easy to ride past 250k. I'd buy a 2007-09 with more than 150k (done it 3x), but only with GOOD service records. The 2015+ I'm on the fence with - my 2017 has 155k and I'll run it past 200k. But, buying one of these newer ones that high of mileage would require GREAT service records.

Too many people buy an expensive vehicle only to cheap out on the basic maintenance. With AFM, non-servicable transmissions (no dipstick), etc the newer stuff can be too much of a crap shoot for me.

 

[BacDoc]

I think it also depends on your mechanical ability and or willingness to work on it. Last year I purchased an 07 Denali XL with 270k for 3 grand. Figured by that point some big stuff had been addressed. I have to do some work for sure but now have 295 on it and a total of 5200 in it with the purchase price. Totally worth it to me.

Absolutely worth it! Nice work bro that rig looks sano!

 

[bobsburban]

Bought my 2011 Suburban with 231,000 on the odometer. It was an Atlanta car with a fair amount of service receipts but not great. Had my mechanic check it thoroughly and among other comments he said the engine was the quietest 5.3 he's ever heard. Said the shops manager's 2020 Silverado makes a lot more noise.

Bought it knowing the air shocks and compressor were blown and the radiator was leaking. Chance to upgrade all over - much larger radiator, Bilsteins, Dobinsons rear springs, bigger transmission cooler, etc. Changed all fluids, transmission service, everything. It's running great. The transmission ate itself at 275k miles, replaced with a Jasper remanufactured unit. I've got 282,500 miles on it now, just pulled our camper to New York and back and engine saw a lot of duty between 3,000 and 5,000 rpm in 3rd and 4th gears pulling some of the mountains.

I'm considering a rebuild and DOD delete along with a new transfer case, 3.73s, a new Eaton Tru-Trac, and bigger brakes before running the Oregon Trail, and then turning northwards through Glacier, Banff, and Jasper National Parks before seeing friends in Edmonton next summer.

It's paid for, as are all the upgrades and repairs. Upcoming mods will also be paid for - no credit used here. I'm still thousands and thousands ahead of new or even gently used.

As long as it's a southern (or western desert) car and the miles/year work out to it being a road warrior, I generally have no fear.

 

[B-train]

This......says it all. Good words @bobsburban

"As long as it's a southern (or western desert) car and the miles/year work out to it being a road warrior, I generally have no fear."

I feel the same way. A vehicle that is driven regularly for many miles will outlast a short trip machine in the long run. My 400k+ mile 2001 Impala with the 3.8L was a testament to that. NOT 1 engine or trans failure its entire life. 100+ miles a day since being purchased used (salesman demo) with 5k on the odometer.

 

[Sackett2622]

Just genuinely interested in your opinion about this: When you consider buying a used truck like the Tahoe, Yukon or Escalade how many miles are you aiming for to get the "best" personal deal?
I think this is very subjective and everyone has a different view about it. So I'm really interested in your thoughts about how many miles are too many for you all. Until what mileage you pull the trigger? If the vehicle has more mileage than you wanted what would mitigate/remediate it in your opinion so that you're still going to pull the trigger?
Just trying to get some other perspectives on this.

Happy 4th!

I bought a 2010 Tahoe LT z71 in 2018, with 173,500 miles on it. One owner, he was a big corporate boss with great service records. It was beautiful and had all the bells and whistles except for back up camera. We have had it now for 6 years and it now has 204,000 on it. No problems, other than the air conditioner has quit in the front and rear, going in the shop this week for that repair. I agree with the other posters, service records are crucial, Carfax and check the frame for rust. These are really good vehicles. When mine wears out, it will be hard to go back to a vehicle that is not a Tahoe!