Has anyone converted back to straight gas

[blade02]

any sounds from under the truck...have you tried M1-4?

The few days that I had it it drove fine when it did stop it chugged and shaked then quit moving

 

[iamdub]

It's so hard to tell because the grinding comes with violent shaking...though it is below the truck to the rear of the driver seat...shifts into drive with no hesitation...you take your foot off that brake...all hell grinds and shakes violently...it will not move forward at all....almost feels like if you took two splines at full speed and dropped a piece of hardened steel between the two...if it is the rear end.....theres nothing left inside that pumpkin...except broken shards of steel....that's for sure.

Did you say it doesn't make the noise in reverse? Will it move at all in reverse?

I'd remove the driveshaft before removing the rear cover if I were just trying to isolate the issue to the trans or rear end. Four bolts and maybe a little trans fluid dripping out the tailshaft versus 10 bolts, draining half a gallon of stinky gear oil, having to re-gasket...

 

[OR VietVet]

The engine starts when I put in gear it does nothing it is a 4x4 truck the fluid in the trans looks good and full I really never did anything with hybrids so don’t know much about the aux pump on the display it says service hybrid there were some codes when we scanned it but nothing to do with trans it’s been sitting for a year and only owned it for a year and three days

That may well be the longest sentence I ever read. Ok, sitting for a year--not good. Has codes but nothing to do with trans--still should know what those codes are. They may or may not be related. Please still do the basic checks and report.

 

[BG1988]

That may well be the longest sentence I ever read. Ok, sitting for a year--not good. Has codes but nothing to do with trans--still should know what those codes are. They may or may not be related. Please still do the basic checks and report.

wonder if the engine revs the transfer case is stuck in neutral?

 

[Dropped HYbro]

just curious...any idea what a trans rebuild or remanufactured trans installed runs...ballpark??
or have you heard any stories of hybrid rebuilds and costs?

morning yall...quick update...I took a video of the noise and am trying to upload now...remember sound is 100 times worse in person and shakes the whole truck violently....could hear clacking sounds with the truck up in the rear and the tires trying to spin manually...lets see if I can get this video uploaded

 

[swathdiver]

just curious...any idea what a trans rebuild or remanufactured trans installed runs...ballpark??
or have you heard any stories of hybrid rebuilds and costs?

We've had a few guys with grenaded rears in the past two weeks or so. As for prices for a hybrid CVT transmission, I do not know off-hand. But I do know rebuilding them and their prices have been discussed over the last two years as I was involved in those conversations. The search feature is your friend, not my memory! LOL

Ohh, how many bolts down there?

The first year of the Cadillac Hybrid and maybe the Tahoes had 3.42 gears. Then they went to 3.08s.

 

[swathdiver]

Are you saying the 9.5" 14-bolt is a drop in, like a third member? If it isn't, I personally would not want to attempt the gear lash set up without the proper tools and experience.

I ask because it has been long enough since I was in a shop that I don't know if there is a 3rd member design for that 9.5".

I'm not sure I understand what you mean by "3rd member design". However, RWD and 4x4, not AWD 1500 GMT-900 SUVs with the 6.2 and 6.0 Hybrid received the 14-bolt 9.5" semi-floater rear axle versus the 8.6" used by the 5.3s and the 6.2s with AWD. Within this same generation it is a plug and play affair and one does not need to open them up (parts replacement) unless they want to change the gears.

 

[Dropped HYbro]

That may well be the longest sentence I ever read. Ok, sitting for a year--not good. Has codes but nothing to do with trans--still should know what those codes are. They may or may not be related. Please still do the basic checks and report.

If the noise is in fact coming from there then you may have trans tailshaft/front driveshaft problems. Maybe a u-joint getting ready to disintegrate.

We've had a few guys with grenaded rears in the past two weeks or so. As for prices for a hybrid CVT transmission, I do not know off-hand. But I do know rebuilding them and their prices have been discussed over the last two years as I was involved in those conversations. The search feature is your friend, not my memory! LOL

Ohh, how many bolts down there?

The first year of the Cadillac Hybrid and maybe the Tahoes had 3.42 gears. Then they went to 3.08s.

I counted 14 bolts....having a hard time uploading video...its only 49 seconds and I keep trying to trim it and it keeps telling me the file is too large...its 6MB......whats the largest file I can upload anyone know??...I really would like your guy's opinion on this sound!

 

[swathdiver]

I counted 14 bolts....having a hard time uploading video...its only 49 seconds and I keep trying to trim it and it keeps telling me the file is too large...its 6MB......whats the largest file I can upload anyone know??...I really would like your guy's opinion on this sound!

Ok and I bet then that your RPO sheet has AXN for the 14-bolt rear. Well, now you have the option to get a used rear out of a RWD Denali or Escalade, long or short, shouldn't matter and it will bolt right up.

All this clanging around may damage the u-joints, the rear seal on the transmission or even the tail shaft so inspect those carefully.

Last year one of our members here bought one for about $500 and paid another $400 for installation. The guy whose rear grenaded last week paid $900 for a rebuild but that was an 8.6".

 

[Dropped HYbro]

Ok and I bet then that your RPO sheet has AXN for the 14-bolt rear. Well, now you have the option to get a used rear out of a RWD Denali or Escalade, long or short, shouldn't matter and it will bolt right up.

All this clanging around may damage the u-joints, the rear seal on the transmission or even the tail shaft so inspect those carefully.

Last year one of our members here bought one for about $500 and paid another $400 for installation. The guy whose rear grenaded last week paid $900 for a rebuild but that was an 8.6".

Ok and I bet then that your RPO sheet has AXN for the 14-bolt rear. Well, now you have the option to get a used rear out of a RWD Denali or Escalade, long or short, shouldn't matter and it will bolt right up.

All this clanging around may damage the u-joints, the rear seal on the transmission or even the tail shaft so inspect those carefully.

Last year one of our members here bought one for about $500 and paid another $400 for installation. The guy whose rear grenaded last week paid $900 for a rebuild but that was an 8.6".

I could live with that...love the way the hybrid drives that much...really wish I could upload this video....it keeps telling me the file is too large and Ive trimmed it down to 5MB...it was 40MB...if it really is the rear end...I need to research if there are any repurcussions to changing the gear ratio at the same time...I would really like to run a 3.73 gear...I have this on my monte carlo ss...with a 700r4 and really like the results....thanks for the advice...ill know soon for sure after the dealer looks at it.

 

[OR VietVet]

I'm not sure I understand what you mean by "3rd member design". However, RWD and 4x4, not AWD 1500 GMT-900 SUVs with the 6.2 and 6.0 Hybrid received the 14-bolt 9.5" semi-floater rear axle versus the 8.6" used by the 5.3s and the 6.2s with AWD. Within this same generation it is a plug and play affair and one does not need to open them up (parts replacement) unless they want to change the gears.

I misread your previous statement. You were talking about used price of about $400 and drop it in in the afternoon and I did not pick up on you were talking about a complete axle. When you said drop in my mind went to a third member differential, like a Ford 9" diff. Instead of building the gears in the housing a Ford third member is a complete unit that just unbolts from front of rear diff and lifts the whole gear assembly out and then "drop" in a whole different gear assembly/section. Since I have been away from shops for a while I thought something weird happened and GM was making the 9.5" semi float set up as a third member. I am old. Need to read better before replying. My bad.

 

[OR VietVet]

I could live with that...love the way the hybrid drives that much...really wish I could upload this video....it keeps telling me the file is too large and Ive trimmed it down to 5MB...it was 40MB...if it really is the rear end...I need to research if there are any repurcussions to changing the gear ratio at the same time...I would really like to run a 3.73 gear...I have this on my monte carlo ss...with a 700r4 and really like the results....thanks for the advice...ill know soon for sure after the dealer looks at it.

You need to set up and download at you tube and then post the link. It took me a while and my bosses son to help me figure it out but it works. Remember though, I am almost 67. If you are under 40 years old you have no excuse for not being able to do this.

 

[Dropped HYbro]

You need to set up and download at you tube and then post the link. It took me a while and my bosses son to help me figure it out but it works. Remember though, I am almost 67. If you are under 40 years old you have no excuse for not being able to do this.

49 going on 25 years of age...LOl...im not sure I want to post anything to youtube...let me see if I can use my sons acct.

 

[Bigkevschopshop]

Ok... PUt the rear end up on jackstands, chock front wheels, Here is what I want you to do... The place where the driveshaft bolts to the rear end, Grab it with your hand, try to move it up and down. This sounds like a pinion bearing explosion, I have had it happen on a gm 12 bolt, under load all kinds of grinding and banging, reverse and decell no noise.. When you do that while in the air, rotate one of the tires go forward and then go backwards, watch that yoke off the front of the rear end, see if it moves in and out vs the housing staying stationary. I am just an old hotrod mechanic not a "technician" so I may be on the money or off the money.

Also if the trans is in neutral its pumping, if in reverse its pumping, so i think the pump is still good and your getting no noise in those two gears.

 

[Dropped HYbro]

Ok... PUt the rear end up on jackstands, chock front wheels, Here is what I want you to do... The place where the driveshaft bolts to the rear end, Grab it with your hand, try to move it up and down. This sounds like a pinion bearing explosion, I have had it happen on a gm 12 bolt, under load all kinds of grinding and banging, reverse and decell no noise.. When you do that while in the air, rotate one of the tires go forward and then go backwards, watch that yoke off the front of the rear end, see if it moves in and out vs the housing staying stationary. I am just an old hotrod mechanic not a "technician" so I may be on the money or off the money.

Also if the trans is in neutral its pumping, if in reverse its pumping, so i think the pump is still good and your getting no noise in those two gears.

good morning ...quick update...truck is at the dealership now....will be getting looked at today...im hoping for the best.
I did try a few things before the tow truck...which by the way ended up being a wheel loader because I would not let the driver drag it up the flat bed...ugggh...strangest thing...jacked it up in the rear on tire moved back and forth the other side nothing...locked up...played with it (many clanking noises)...got them both to turn...set down and was ready for the tow truck to pull it up....nothing it seemed like the front then seized up???...which is crazy considering its a rear wheel drive 2WD...ill post when I get more info from the technician.

 

[Dropped HYbro]

good morning ...quick update...truck is at the dealership now....will be getting looked at today...im hoping for the best.
I did try a few things before the tow truck...which by the way ended up being a wheel loader because I would not let the driver drag it up the flat bed...ugggh...strangest thing...jacked it up in the rear on tire moved back and forth the other side nothing...locked up...played with it (many clanking noises)...got them both to turn...set down and was ready for the tow truck to pull it up....nothing it seemed like the front then seized up???...which is crazy considering its a rear wheel drive 2WD...ill post when I get more info from the technician.

so heres the update...dealership says that the rear end differential is done...shot out and needs a total tear down and rebuild....they have quoted me $700-900 for parts and a total labor time of 12 hours which translates to $1400-$1600....best case$1700...worst case $2500 with a 2 year unlimited mileage warranty....I know this is not a good price for this work...all my research shows its a 5-8 hour total tear down and rebuild...I don't feel confident enough to do the repairs myself...though I do know a little about rear end differentials...I just don't have the experience personally of tearing them down and replacing ring and pinion...I am going to dealership today to try and negotiate with them in regards to pricing...couple questions...please guys help me get some answers.

1.Can I go to a 3.73 ring and pinion to help compensate for the size of my wheels and tires...33.81"...about 2+" bigger than stock...will they be able to program our hybrid trucks to the new gear ratio in regards to shift points and speedometer???

2.what would make a rear end totally break down like this....my truck is a RWD 2WD....they didn't tell me how bad it is yet they would have to tear it down to let me know if there are actually teeth broken/pins etc.???

3.I really need the warranty and guarantee...what would be a fair price for this work....a total rebuild of the rear end...ring and pinion...bushings...carrier or a total tear down and rebuild using new AC Delco parts???

4.Is there any other work related to my current issue or problem that IU should have fixed or serviced while the work is being performed??

all comments and responses are really appreciated guys...just love this truck and want it to "Healthy" again

 

[jeffbco]

so heres the update...dealership says that the rear end differential is done...shot out and needs a total tear down and rebuild....they have quoted me $700-900 for parts and a total labor time of 12 hours which translates to $1400-$1600....best case$1700...worst case $2500 with a 2 year unlimited mileage warranty....I know this is not a good price for this work...all my research shows its a 5-8 hour total tear down and rebuild...I don't feel confident enough to do the repairs myself...though I do know a little about rear end differentials...I just don't have the experience personally of tearing them down and replacing ring and pinion...I am going to dealership today to try and negotiate with them in regards to pricing...couple questions...please guys help me get some answers.

1.Can I go to a 3.73 ring and pinion to help compensate for the size of my wheels and tires...33.81"...about 2+" bigger than stock...will they be able to program our hybrid trucks to the new gear ratio in regards to shift points and speedometer???

2.what would make a rear end totally break down like this....my truck is a RWD 2WD....they didn't tell me how bad it is yet they would have to tear it down to let me know if there are actually teeth broken/pins etc.???

3.I really need the warranty and guarantee...what would be a fair price for this work....a total rebuild of the rear end...ring and pinion...bushings...carrier or a total tear down and rebuild using new AC Delco parts???

4.Is there any other work related to my current issue or problem that IU should have fixed or serviced while the work is being performed??

all comments and responses are really appreciated guys...just love this truck and want it to "Healthy" again

Wow - expensive. If the warranty is important to you you should make sure the mounting of non-standard size wheels will not void the warranty.

 

[OR VietVet]

If it takes 12 hours to tear down and clean and rebuild, I would fire that tech. He may be good but I know a local guy here that I was in a shop with and he can do that job, easy, in 6 hours. If you go with the dealer that price better include new axle bearings and seals.

 

[Dropped HYbro]

If it takes 12 hours to tear down and clean and rebuild, I would fire that tech. He may be good but I know a local guy here that I was in a shop with and he can do that job, easy, in 6 hours. If you go with the dealer that price better include new axle bearings and seals.

I'm going to the dealership today and try and negotiate a more reasonable cost to do this repair...the truck is mechanically in great shape...and I know sometimes things happen....I just don't feel the price is right on this....I just want my truck back...well see what happens.thanks ron.

 

[OR VietVet]

In case you missed what I was saying, the axle bearings and seals should be replaced because of the shrapnel flying in the bearings when the diff grenaded.